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  #21  
Old 10-27-2005, 03:06 AM
shrek shrek is offline
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i got a few pics...not many as it wasnt really practical for me to drag the old beast out...front end and under bonnet to begin with!
sorry the front end one looks poor...it was taken with a camera fone....handy gadgets at times!





just an air filter question as that ones a fly trap! should i go for another pfo flo 1000 jobbie or a tri oval K&N element one?.. slightly against the foam pro flo one as they catch fire and burn real well...thats why the element is mising in the pic!

[ October 27, 2005, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: shrek ]
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  #22  
Old 10-27-2005, 03:43 AM
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Cozy little closet you keep it in. That is tight to get in and out of. I like the plug wire routing and retainers Yours is a wide track btw.
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  #23  
Old 10-27-2005, 04:36 AM
shrek shrek is offline
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yeah the wire tidys stop any prospect of the wires getting melted on the exhaust manifold! getting her in and out is a close call that requires your best judgement...and i stop when the tow ball mount hits the wall...it sits out enough to stop the bumper getting damaged! not really much choice on where i keep it....its dry which is a big help in keeping rot at bay!.

make any difference it being a W/T?
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  #24  
Old 10-27-2005, 04:40 AM
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A little better lateral stability with the wider stance. Axles are about 5-6" wider that the 4 doors.
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  #25  
Old 10-27-2005, 04:46 AM
shrek shrek is offline
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5-6 inches...thats a fair bit!
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  #26  
Old 10-27-2005, 10:52 PM
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Front end looks nice anyway...

Edelbrock, nice. Better than my POS.

I'm still kicking myself as i missed on a great 4 door which was on Ebay about a month after i bought mine. Rebuilt engine, Edelbrock intake and carb. Really good shape. Went for £500!!!
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  #27  
Old 10-28-2005, 01:01 AM
shrek shrek is offline
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yeah but i can count on one hand the amount of 3 door cherokees i have seen in the country so far!...you could always put the performer gear on rather than mess with the stock one!
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  #28  
Old 10-28-2005, 03:29 AM
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JeremySmith JeremySmith is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by shrek:
....however my driving position means that judging the left corner postion is a pig as it is...without me putting a 2 inch high cowl on the bonnet!!!...
If you guys sat on the right side of the cars over there, that wouldn't be a problem. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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  #29  
Old 10-28-2005, 05:45 AM
shrek shrek is offline
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yeah it would cos then i couldnt see the right hand side...unless im missing something here... i didnt pay for the way its been converted to RHD so i wont moan....besides if i drive something like an FSJ over here it would be nice to see to overtake something! rather than give the message "im to tight to buy a right hooker!"
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  #30  
Old 10-28-2005, 06:08 AM
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I'm trying to finish up the pseudo street rod effort on my J10 flareside. Tried to keep it as simple as possible without chopping up the truck too much (although it does need a top chop to really make it look right).

The rear was lowered about an inch using longer shackles. The front end proved problematic because of the limited clearance between the forward axle pumpkin and the oil pan. I elected to drop the front end by channeling the sheet metal over the frame. All of the front sheet metal is effectively tied to the two vertical posts that bolt into the front cross frame. By drilling out the spot welds that hold the inner valance to those posts, and relocating that inner sheet metal lower on the posts (reweld or bolts), you can channel/lower the front sheet about three inches. You have to be careful with that measurement because you're actually lowing the hood/bonnet down over the engine. Also, since the stock radiator can't be dropped the full three inches because the bottom tank hits the frame, the radiator cap becomes another clearance problem. Change the radiator for a shorter unit, and you could go even lower....although line up of the bed and cab then gets to be a bigger problem.

OK, so now the front anchor point for the sheet metal is about three inches lower...but the cab is sitting there at a different angle (there's a "V" between the front fenders and the cab. You get out your old geometry book so you can calculate how much to disect out of the forward rubber mounts/donuts for the cab...you cut them roughly in half. Don't touch the rear donuts.

At this point you have the cab and fender sheet metal lined up for a nice forward rake...but the bed is down in the back and there's a big "V" between the cab and the bed. So you shim up the rear of the bed...and everything is in a nice forward sloping line. When it's all said and done, the front end drop is just over three inches and the rear might net about a half inch (dropped by the shackles, but then raised by the shims)...you could go with even longer shackles, but I think the look is about right. The big improvement is getting that front end dropped and the resultant forward rake. The stock J truck has a noticeable nose high look that's gotta go for a "street truck" look.

This approach kept the stock steering. But by eliminating the front live axle and substituting a straight tubular setup, you could get the front end much lower, and then do an axle over spring conversion on the rear. I also fabricated front and rear roll pans, shaved the front signal lights on sides of fenders, welded the antenna hole shut, and use a Rhino grill with an early hood and front facia panel so it fits nice and snug. Also replaced the big side mirrors with units from an early 90s Ford pickup, and pieced together an old style dash with the late madel dash for a custom look.

Thinking about "Frenching" the headlights (like the newer baby jeeps) to get rid of the bug eye look. Presently using 16 inch alloy wheels, but Goodrich screwed me up by discontinuing the 315/55 tires for the rear, which are a very close diameter match for the 285/60's on the front...so I might end up with 17s or 18s, although I hate the pimp your ride look.
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  #31  
Old 10-28-2005, 06:29 AM
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Whoops...I just went back and saw you have a Cherokee...sorry for the long post about a pickup. On the other hand you could basically do the same thing with a Cherokee...even easier, actually.
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  #32  
Old 10-28-2005, 06:34 AM
shrek shrek is offline
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jeeez that sounds like a mean chariot! i reckon ill keep mine as it is.... but i can appreciate the sheer amount of hours that must have gone into something like that! not much point me having an off roader that clouts road kill underneath! ill be honest i like a car thats been nicely done tasteful and suiting the car... blatantly big wheels...lurid paint and tv screens eminating from any available aperture is just toooooo much... dont get me wrong the cars i have had so far have had stereo systems in there..more for clarity and detail really not like turn it up and people 3 streets away complain about the noise! i also draw the line at putting a tv screen in a car...what is the point? with the exception of sat nav (which is only laziness from people who cant be bothered to learn to read a map!)...315/55...cant beat a bit of width!

have pimp my ride done an FSJ?...if they have it hasnt reached the uk yet!...or is that even too much outlay to pimp a full size!
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  #33  
Old 10-28-2005, 07:09 AM
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Guess I'm not clear as to your initial objective, but if you went with lowering blocks, you'd bring the whole chassis down toward the mud and road kill...the channeling approach just brings the sheet metal down a bit...the front roll pan just barely covers the front spring shackles...suspension and chassis are untouched.
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  #34  
Old 10-28-2005, 10:29 AM
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Since it is a wide track, it probably has 31" tires on it I would think. Maybe 30"... You could just replace those with a set of 235 70R 15s and lower it an inch easy. Or better yet, keep the bigger tires and wheels for the occasion to go in the woods or whatever and have the smaller tires on another set of rims.
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