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Old 03-04-2013, 02:16 PM
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Frank Frank is offline
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Battery cable gauge?

Well, my positive cable gave up the ghost - corroded and broke free from the post clamp. No one has a direct replacement but AutoZone sells given lengths of cable but cannot do a lookup for the gauge required (!?). Counter guy told me to cut a length to get the correct gauge. At work, no tools.

Can anyone advise me as to what gauge cable I should buy? I'm gonna buy 5' just to be safe on the length but there's no use buying the wrong gauge. I'm guessing 4... Many thanks!


Frank
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:34 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Yepp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank
Well, my positive cable gave up the ghost - corroded and broke free from the post clamp. No one has a direct replacement but AutoZone sells given lengths of cable but cannot do a lookup for the gauge required (!?). Counter guy told me to cut a length to get the correct gauge. At work, no tools.

Can anyone advise me as to what gauge cable I should buy? I'm gonna buy 5' just to be safe on the length but there's no use buying the wrong gauge. I'm guessing 4... Many thanks!


Frank

Factory & standard is #4 HD is #2 recommended strange they don't have precuts I see them everwhere.

Makes no sense check this.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...able/_/N-acy22
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Last edited by serehill : 03-04-2013 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:37 PM
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rreed rreed is offline
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Yeah grab you a big fat generic off the peg board. Automoan has them in the battery section. Take your old one in w/ and grab the same length biggest gauge of the same length.
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:43 PM
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Frank Frank is offline
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Thank much! I called four outlets, one had nothing and wouldn't have anything, two others had only the ground cable (56"), and AutoZone. Guy there surprised me when he said he couldn't do a lookup.

I'm not seeing much of a problem here in replacing the cable - just follow it to the starter, cut to length, re-attach starter connector, wiggle it back up to the battery and add the post clamp? Leave it to me and I'll screw up the flux capacitor...


Frank
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:20 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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If you're going to cut to length, I'd guess you have the cable crimper on hand? If you're using the junk terminal clamps that have the 2 bolt metal piece that smushes the cable to the clamp, throw those away and buy "new" clamps. The connection where the cable is smashed to the clamp will be a trouble spot for ever. I use the marine type battery post clamps that have a vertical threaded stud at the heel that accepts cable ring eyes. Much better connection, eyed cables are cheaper than a pre-made one with the battery clamp end already on it. Handy also if you need to run something off direct batt voltage. In any case once everything is cleaned up to shiny and reconnected, coat the works with Vaseline or grease to prevent corrosion.
Yup #4 cable will work but if you can afford it buy #2. This is one of those areas where bigger IS better.
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:14 PM
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All the local parts stores that I know of have battery cables in 1 or 2 foot increment lengths. Weird...
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:14 AM
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Well, mysteries solved! I went to AutoZone and the counter guy directed me to the battery section that had a whole display of battery cables! I have no idea why the call I made would get me such a different result. Anyway, got the cable, fought trying to slide underneath (maybe I need a lift?) to get to the nut on the starter - 13mm, really? Got it hooked up and nada. Got a jump and it finally started but...

A couple days ago, I found the power seats and power locks wouldn't work. While poking at the fuse block, looking for an offending fuse, a thing that resembled a fuse (small, metallic case, blades like a fuse) burned me - it was HOT. So, I figured that was the offender. Got a replacement and put it in. Drove home, no worries. Didn't go anywhere Sunday. Got up yesterday and drove to work, no worries. Battery was dead by noon. I poked the positive cable and here I am.

Prior to its starting last night, while hooked up to the other truck, I heard the new fuse-thingy clicking and resetting itself; methinks I have a short... somewhere... So, no power seats not locks for now.

Grrr...
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:23 AM
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Small rectangular metal "box?" That's the auto-resetting breaker for the seats. You have a short somewhere, likely under the driver side seat where the wires for the seat and esp. dome lights like to corrode really bad.

Dangling from under the fuse box you should see a set of blue/black wires together w/ a connector right there, slightly thicker gauge than most other wires. This should be your main seat power wire, at least it is on my '85 and '86. Get your seat where you want it--if it's working at all--then disconnect it until you can remove the driver seat and pull up the carpet and investigate a shorted wire.

Throw a good proper charger on the battery to get it properly rechared. A jump start and driving it around isn't quite the "proper" charge for a battery though it might sort of seem to work.
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  #9  
Old 03-05-2013, 11:15 AM
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Frank Frank is offline
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Yeppers, that's the doohickey. One problem leads to another. The seats do work with the new fuse but, like I said, it keeps resetting which brought me to the conclusion of a short. I pulled the fuse and will pursue this in warmer weather - last night it was windy and around 20 degrees. Laying under the Jeep on blacktop wasn't the most pleasant experience - my shoulders are still stiff.

Thanks very much for the diagnosis - I will look into the issues I'm sure to find!
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'88 Grand Wagoneer (Almond), "Sluggo" (RIP)
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  #10  
Old 03-05-2013, 11:10 PM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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2 gauge is good, 1 gauge would be better. If you have a Tractor Supply or something along that line, they would probably have it in red or black. Main thing would be clean connections and a way to protect from corrosion.
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