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Old 11-04-2019, 03:31 PM
woodrow woodrow is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 22
Skid plate bolts

while removing my skid plate despite pb blaster for a few days and heat I broke the bolts that attach the skid plate to the frame, then i broke the extractor in the bolt. I see the nuts are welded to the frame. I had my frame repaired in that area years ago and i don't know if that is how it was originally or improvised by my frame repair guy. I see an aftermarket site that sells the nuts and bolts but don't know how its possible to hold them with a wrench. Do i need to weld new ones on, ( don't own a welder cuz i dont weld ).
is an epoxy an acceptable alternate or might I brake the epoxy loose while tightening

I am planning on cutting the nuts off the frame with a cutting wheel
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:55 PM
fsj454 fsj454 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 02, 2015
Location: new bedford ma.
Posts: 466
7 nuts and bolts 2 self tappers

On 1990 GW 9 in total to drop tank . Mark and disconnect all hoses at tank
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  #3  
Old 11-04-2019, 11:31 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Nov 18, 2015
Location: Stephenson County, IL
Posts: 906
I don't think epoxy would hold in the long run, but for just getting it back together... Hmm. Should work just for that if you let it cure and get it to adhere well. If it ever needs to come back out again, whoever that has that job will be cussin' out the last one who was in there... lol

When I put mine back together after fabbing that frame rail I didn't know how factory had done it. My frame had nothing left down there. All rusted away. I didn't think about welding nuts to the frame. What I did was that I went to menards (local hardware store) and got "U-Nuts" and put them on the frame.
Something like this:
https://www.menards.com/main/hardwar...053764&ipos=12

They allowed me some play when I put the tank back on and kept the nut from spinning (since it's a U shaped piece of metal ).

Now, I don't know how long these will last either, but should be better than epoxy.
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...not too rusty anymore
Plenty of patina

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1926 Dodge Brothers Business Sedan 212 I4-CRANK START
1987 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series-5.0 AOD (WD)
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9, A999, 3.90 gear (DD)
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2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0, AW4, NP231, 3.73 (limbo)
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2019, 05:13 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 22
Yeah, i considered those too. I didnt know if they could take a lot of torque without stripping. Thats probably the easiest. I was only using the epoxy to hold the nuts in place on the inside of the frame rail, then i thought once i tighten it , the nut would grab the frame. But if i have to remove and the epoxy breaks it will all just spin. U bolts are less risky
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  #5  
Old 11-05-2019, 08:39 AM
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Full Size Jeeper Full Size Jeeper is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2014
Location: Mandeville Louisiana
Posts: 1,850
Look up a product called Riv-nut or rivet nut, I think this could help. It works like a rivet, but has threads that you can then put your bolt in, good luck.
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  #6  
Old 11-05-2019, 08:48 AM
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Full Size Jeeper Full Size Jeeper is offline
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Join Date: Jul 20, 2014
Location: Mandeville Louisiana
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Video of how it works.
https://youtu.be/L-ik6TnWrGI
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1978 Wagoneer

401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

Mods:
Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2019, 10:05 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Join Date: Jun 08, 2005
Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
Posts: 9,458
Drill them out and run a tap through them.
Easy and no welder or special tools required.
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  #8  
Old 11-19-2019, 09:02 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,861
Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Drill them out and run a tap through them.
Easy and no welder or special tools required.
Yep. A tap is cheaper than all the rest of those workarounds. Plus, that nut/bolt combo is used all over our rigs and you will get alot of use out of that tap. Take your time drilling it so you don't drill it crooked or off center.
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  #9  
Old 11-19-2019, 10:20 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,324
Since he broke an extractor off in it I don't think he's going to be drilling that out.
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  #10  
Old 11-24-2019, 11:56 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 22
Yeah, the broken extractor was an issue. I cut the welded nuts off of the frame. I think i will try the u nuts that clip on. My concern is leaving the gap between the skid plate and the frame, my catch alot of grime. Maybe its not a problem
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  #11  
Old 11-24-2019, 12:59 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,324
Could run a bead of goo down the frame when you bolt it up if you're worried about it.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #12  
Old 12-06-2019, 12:56 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Sep 17, 2005
Location: Farmington Hills Mi.
Posts: 1,195
You could make a special nut from a piece of steel bar. The bar should be at least as thick as the diameter of the screw that going through it.

The special nut should be about as long as the flange on the frame, about two inches. Drill and tap the hole near the end of the bar.

When tightening or loosening, the nut will rotate so far as to hit the web of the frame. You could temporarily secure the nut in place with tape or glue for installation.
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