International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tech Archives > Engine

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-09-2000, 08:23 AM
bignblue
 
Posts: n/a
Red face

In an earlier post I wrote about puffs of smoke coming from a breather tube on top of my exhaust manifold. Well, today I found the source. I shut my engine off at the dentist's (cha-ching! another 200 dollars) and smoke flooded out from under the hood. When I lifted the hood I noticed oil in the snorkel mouth so I lifted off the top of the air cleaner housing. Lo and behold, there's a ring of oil around the bottom of the housing and it looks black and evil. What's going on here? Do I have the wrong PCV valve? Is my oil pressure too high? I just noticed this about 30 minutes ago, so I haven't had time to really poke around in there. Plus, I have to be at work in about 45 minutes. I'm going to chance driving it there and hope for the best. Please respond soonest!


P.S.--TMJ is a cast-iron b*tch, don't let anyone tell you different.

------------------
'78 Chero WT
401/4bbl/TH400/QT
44s F&R
"Jeep: the toughest 4-letter word on wheels"
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-09-2000, 01:03 PM
BIGUGLY BIGUGLY is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 17, 2000
Location: LEEDS, AL U.S.
Posts: 37
Wink

Hello again, what we have here is blowby. Time for a rebuild. The rings are probably gone. Know you did'nt want to hear this.

------------------
79 Cherokee
BIGUGLY
360 Stroker/TH400/QT/44's
edelbrock performer pac
3"lift 33x12.5
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-09-2000, 06:53 PM
BobBarry
 
Posts: n/a
Wink

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by BIGUGLY:
Hello again, what we have here is blowby. Time for a rebuild. The rings are probably gone. Know you did'nt want to hear this.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Undoubtedly blowby, but you can nurse it along for quite a while. Even if your PCV valve is brand-new, you can have problems because oil cokes up inside the metal tube sticking up from the intake, the inside of the rubber hose to it can collapse, and the carb gasket can swell from the oil. All of these clog up the PCV system, and the oil-fill tube, normally the intake for air into the crankcase, becomes the exhaust for it, along with all that oil.

------------------
Bob Barry<UL TYPE=SQUARE>* '78 Cherokee 4-door
* '88 Grand Wagoneer[/list]http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-09-2000, 07:02 PM
scotty's Avatar
scotty scotty is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Location: dayton,oh,45431
Posts: 6,627
Wink

ive got so much blow by that oil actually shoots out of my dipstick tube(am using a cj piece) like a little fountain. i "fixed" my problem by not attaching my breather tothe air cleaner housing,and putting a little rubber cap on the dipstick tube. i also run 50 weight oil and a quart of motor honey. and it still get me around without complaning-heck-it actually feels like its got some power since i swapped on the motorcraft...

this is why i love the six so much-it really doenst want to die!




------------------
scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-09-2000, 07:13 PM
bignblue
 
Posts: n/a
Wink

Okay, so what should I expect to pay for a quality rebuild? I have no idea of how to do this myself--nor do I have the tools or the workspace or, at this point, the patience. Also, I don't have a second vehicle to take me back and forth to work so I can support this d*mn thing. If it's too much, I got news for you all: the Jeep's for sale.

------------------
'78 Chero WT
401/4bbl/TH400/QT
44s F&R
"Jeep: the toughest 4-letter word on wheels"
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-09-2000, 07:23 PM
ClarkGriswald's Avatar
ClarkGriswald ClarkGriswald is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Jul 03, 2000
Location: Bloomingdale MI , USA
Posts: 1,477
Wink

He he he I am just laughing to myself cause I somehow knew about halfway thru scottys response that somewhere in the second half would be the words "Motor Honey" hahahahh.. yep .. nothing like liquid fixes. a little sawdust in the tranny fluid.. a little black pepper in the radiator, hahhah. what else?? Post your crazy home remedy fixes here.. ...

------------------
88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-09-2000, 10:47 PM
lanierboy lanierboy is offline
Grease Monkey
 
Join Date: Apr 25, 2000
Location: Buford, Georgia, USA
Posts: 339
Wink

I'm having the same problem. I recently replaced the PCV valve and cleaned out the tubing. The previous owner installed an Autozone rebuilt longblock around 18k miles ago. I can't believe that the motor is due for a another rebuild already. Is there anything else that can cause this? I plead, please let it be caused by something else! Side note: The motor sounds like one of the valves sticks a little until it warms up.

------------------
1987 GW "Global Warmer"
AMC360 / NP229 / TF727
Holley Projection 2bbl
TFI Ignition upgrade
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-10-2000, 01:29 AM
BIGUGLY BIGUGLY is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 17, 2000
Location: LEEDS, AL U.S.
Posts: 37
Unhappy

Cost on rebuilds can vary quite a bit. The kit for a AMC runs about $500. All the machine work will run $300 to $500 and then you have to find someone to pull it and put back in. I don't know about this but i would think aro $300?? All total $1100 TO $1400 and probably at least 2 weeks down time. Thre is a good guy up here in Odenville that knowws amc well. Good luck!!

------------------
79 Cherokee
BIGUGLY
360 Stroker/TH400/QT/44's
edelbrock performer pac
3"lift 33x12.5
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-10-2000, 02:29 AM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,331
Wink

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by bignblue:
Okay, so what should I expect to pay for a quality rebuild? I have no idea of how to do this myself--nor do I have the tools or the workspace or, at this point, the patience.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It varies from location to location but to have a shop do it all you're looking at $2500-$3000. Prolly best to figure on the high side because you'll prolly need a new timing cover and a few othe misc parts that add up quickly. If the ring gear on the flex plate has some chipped teeth you'll want a new one, new plug wires, cap, rebuild the distributor, new seals on the tranny/x-case, get radiator rodded out while it's out and on and on...
-joe

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-10-2000, 03:01 AM
scotty's Avatar
scotty scotty is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 12, 2000
Location: dayton,oh,45431
Posts: 6,627
Wink

bignblue, if it runs okay,id roll with it. this is nothing thats gonna make your engine blow,or leave you stranded. just clean out your air cleaner every now and then,or give your breather its own filter. it may run like that literally forever. i wish you could come watch mine run,youd probably be shocked. as i mentioned,oil actually shoots up out of the dipstick onto the coil. it took me longer than than id care to admit to to figure out why mu coil was "leaking" oil! it will help quite a bit to run thicker oil,also.

but there should be no talk of sellig jeeps,here, lest the jeep gods become very,very angry and strike us all down!

the motor can definately wait until you are financially,or spacially ready to have it done,or attempt the rebuild yourself. it really is not hard to rebuild an engine if you can find somewhere to do it...



------------------
scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-10-2000, 06:05 AM
Ron Ron is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Dec 14, 2001
Location: Washington
Posts: 5
Wink

I've been driving my '79 for over 30,000 miles with oil blowing into the air horn. I clean it out when I change the oil, change the air filter when it gets nasty, and I don't have a bit of trouble. If I tried to fix every problem or noise on my jeep, it would never run again. What you must learn to do to your Jeep's problems is what many men over the years have learned to do with their wives: ignore it, and act like you don't know or hear anything. Above all, don't let the Jeep know that you know that something is wrong with it, or it will nag you like a red-headed step child.


------------------
'79 Wagoneer Limited
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-10-2000, 07:26 AM
MonsterMash
 
Posts: n/a
Wink

I had the "self-oiling air filter" option myself before I put my new motor in last year. I took a GM crankcase vent filter and ripped it out of its case, rolled in into a tube (kinda' like a cigarette) and stuffed it into the hose from the oil filler cap to the air cleaner. This decreased the amount of oil going into the aircleaner substanially. After that I had a nicely oiled air cleaner and virtually no mess. Never worried about it after that. I did throw a rod a couple of years later (probably due to my very low oil pressure-- sometimes it wouldn't even register) and I had a rebuilt motor put in for around $1700 although nothing but the essentials were replaced (ie. used old fuel pump, water pump, etc.).

------------------
'84GW360--"Spinner"
And on the eighth day God created Jeep so man would not be bored.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-10-2000, 03:06 PM
Ray Stephens Ray Stephens is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Aug 01, 2000
Location: Benton,Tn,USA
Posts: 20
Wink

Before I started puckering up over the potential cost of a rebuild check the compression to see if it's inline. If the compression is good,make sure your vac lines are hooked up right.If they are right and you have a 258,remove your valve cover and make sure the baffles on it aren't clogged up with Quaker State, motor honey or any other goo.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-10-2000, 07:07 PM
bignblue
 
Posts: n/a
Wink

Okay guys, and I appreciate all the help. I had a brain...er, drizzle today on the way to work. What if my PCV valve was wrong? I had Stupid-Lube change the oil and PCV when I was at the beach and I think they "close-enuff"-ed the valve--could that overpressurize the crankcase and shoot oil out of the oil filler tube?

FWIW, I'm running 20W-50 in my 401.

Missed out on a beeeeyutiful 83 Chero in P'cola by about 2 hours. It had 80k original on a 360/727 combo and the asking price was $1195. It sold for $900 to a guy who was pondering a diesel conversion. I called him and left a message about selling me his motor....keep your fingers crossed!

Thanks again.

------------------
'78 Chero WT
401/4bbl/TH400/QT
44s F&R
"Jeep: the toughest 4-letter word on wheels"
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:22 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner