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Old 05-20-2002, 02:17 PM
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porkchop porkchop is offline
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I took the wag into the shop today to have them look at my angles to see why it has such bad vibs. He told me that I need to lower the rear of the engine by 1 1/2 inches. He said that should do it since my t-case is at 3* and the pinion is at 6*. I can't really lower just the rear since my fan is only 1 1/2 inches from the radiator (360 installed into a 67 wag many mods made). He also figured a new CV rear shaft for $375 ! I still need to buy exhaust and drive to Ouray so that option is out.

I figure that since I have to change the engine anyway while it is out I will just drop the engine mounts two inches and the crossmember the same. This will help out in all areas, front and rear angles.

I am not worried about the exhaust since it is going to be done at a shop when it is all said and done. They are going to do from manifolds back. Shifters are also no concern, I have a floor shifter for tranny, twin sticks for the D20. The only real worry is hitting the oil pan at full flex or scaping it on a rock. I am going to start next weekend ,there goes my camping plans. Are there any little things that anyone can think of that I may have missed?

Here is where I mentioned it before: http://www.ifsja.org/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/...=2&t=009441&p=

I removed the AAL's before but I put them back on. I put on the rear tire carrier and wanted the extra strength in the back to support the weight.

[ May 22, 2002: Message edited by: porkchop ]

[ May 23, 2002: Message edited by: porkchop ]</p>
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  #2  
Old 05-20-2002, 02:20 PM
fire_dragon61 fire_dragon61 is offline
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if your worried about the oil pan scrapping maybe a skid plate could be made to protect it?
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Old 05-20-2002, 02:31 PM
Rockwagon Rockwagon is offline
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How much lift are you running? I have already lowered my tranny+tranfercase at the cross member. I greatly improved rear drive angle but didn't help the front much. I plan to lower my engine too. With 10"-11" of lift I don't think I will hit my pan..
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Old 05-20-2002, 02:32 PM
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Well you will have to lower it so that the t-case is level, otherwise your front output will have a worse angle. The cross member looks easy to lower on my rig, not sure if the 67 has a different setup or not. I have lowered a engine before in a car that we put a V8 into (vega). We custom made mounts from plate steelt hat we cut and welded into a bracket, and then bolted them in (didnt want to weld and make it permanent) with a area for factory 327 motor mounts. (the engine that went in)

You will have to lower your radiator even more then it is now, not sure how feasable that is with it already being dropped 3 inches.

Cant really think of any engines changes you would need to make, no clutch linkage or anything.

But hey, you can slap on a nice 871 blower now and still close the hood =)
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Old 05-20-2002, 02:48 PM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
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Bryant... I wouldn't worry about scraping the oil pan... figure that is sat 6-7" closer to the axle prior to the SOA.... so lowering 2-3" won't hurt....

As far as the vibes... take a front CV and add it to the rear shaft... DONE!!! that's what I am doing... 1* deflection on the pinion and CV takes the angle off the rear output.... about 16*.

I wish I could be there to help buddy...
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Old 05-20-2002, 04:10 PM
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Well let the games begin!

Todd, I was going to ask you, who is doing the work to put on your CV for you? Is there a good shop in 29 stumps?
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Old 05-20-2002, 05:45 PM
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hey porkchop im comming down there on thursday i have a new elec cooling fan in the shed still in the box do you want me to bring it down with me ???????? let me know
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Old 05-21-2002, 12:29 AM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
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HAHA..now that's a good one!!! A 'GOOD' driveline shop in STUMPS..... LMAO I gotta drive 30 miles ONE WAY to WALMART!!!!!

Gonna put it together myself with some help from the guys at the Hobby shop.... 3-4 REALLY knowledgeable guys....
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Old 05-21-2002, 12:30 AM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
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BTW.. you need a front CV yoke to swap in there....
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Old 05-21-2002, 12:56 AM
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Sure, Mikie, bring it on down. Most of the work will be outside though. It has not ben that hot yet this year.


I figured as much, Todd, but you never know what happened in the last few years . I do have a front CV to swap in. But after I drop it I don't think I will have a need for one.
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Old 05-21-2002, 02:07 AM
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no porkchop the fan is for the rad not the garage
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Old 05-21-2002, 02:08 AM
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no porkchop the fan is for the rad not the garage it will give you more room between the fan and rad if your fan is that close you will loose the rad if a motor mount goes
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Old 05-21-2002, 02:15 AM
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LOL! I see. I thought it was one for the garage since you kept talking about how hot it was when you where doing the tranny.
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Old 05-21-2002, 02:57 AM
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porkchop are you blond ??????
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Old 05-21-2002, 02:59 AM
64Trvlr 64Trvlr is offline
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ROTFLMAO
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Old 05-21-2002, 03:06 AM
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<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by gsmikie:
porkchop are you blond ??????<hr></blockquote>


ROTFLMAO!!! I just dye my hair black so I don't look to odd! I also just saw one of the electric cooling fans at home depot the other day that cools up to a 500 sq ft area and I thought that's what you meant. LOL!
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Old 05-21-2002, 03:15 AM
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It sounds to me like the shop has given you an advise that will give you a 6 degree pinion angle at the transfer to match the pinion at the axle. Why can't you just rotate the axle so you get the same amount of angle as the transfer. Much easier and less work than lowering the engine.
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Old 05-21-2002, 05:20 AM
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porkchop porkchop is offline
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I was just wondering why I can not just put in a 4* shim and call it good. Sounds logical to me. Hmmmmmmm.............
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Old 05-21-2002, 10:26 AM
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Yes, a shim would do the trick
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  #20  
Old 05-21-2002, 11:08 AM
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I have a a 2 1/2* shim in there already and I figure if I add the 4* that would bring me with in 1 1/2 degrees of each other, right? And that is good.
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