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Old 03-15-2019, 08:52 AM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Front spindle bearing, universal or ?

On my '85 GW, there's a loud clicking in sync with wheel rotation.
Spinning each front wheel while parked (in 2WD), its either in the left hub or universal.
Since the wheel and hub has no play (even with the caliper off), it seems like that only leaves the possibility of spindle bearing or axle's universal joint.
Does that sound about right? and any other insight or suggestions?
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:22 PM
77Deepj20 77Deepj20 is offline
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U joints tend to click, not so much bearings.

Remove the lock out hub or flange and see if it goes away if you cant keep the half shaft from spinning.

Make sure nothing is stuck in the rotor when could be making the noise as it spins and hits something else.
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  #3  
Old 03-16-2019, 10:28 AM
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Thanks. I think I should be able to tell with it 4WD high before disassembly.
I have new universals in a box for the past 15 years, although might be the ones with the grease fitting rather than sealed. Should be OK - stock size A/T tires.
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:45 PM
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nograin nograin is offline
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No play in the universal. Sounds like its in the hub. Actually seems like related to slack between the axle and the hub. (Fixed hub) I'll have to open it up and look.
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:40 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Does the clicking stop when the brakes are applied? My J20 clicks at the front like yours. (they have the same front axle) At least one brake pad it loose enough to cause this sound.

My rotor is not running true and the pad is forced against the caliper every time the high spot contacts it. This only happens as speeds below 35MPH. The sound stops whenever I depress the brake pedal.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece
Does the clicking stop when the brakes are applied? My J20 clicks at the front like yours. (they have the same front axle) At least one brake pad it loose enough to cause this sound.

My rotor is not running true and the pad is forced against the caliper every time the high spot contacts it. This only happens as speeds below 35MPH. The sound stops whenever I depress the brake pedal.

Are you a psychic ?

I was just working on loading some pics up on flckr. That's exactly what I found!

The outer pad moves every rotation and knocks where the circled tabs contact.


and the clip holding the inner pad came off the backing plate (yellow arrow). That was the sound like a broken spring.

I also noticed the inner pad lining sits high (short white arrow). I don't know if that's the new pads or a dimensional problem with the caliper. Friday I'll do some measuring.

Also, like you found, Dial indicator showed the rotor's runout is excessive (.018"). The disk thickness is 2.222", so it might be possible to bring it into spec without going too thin, but not likely. So I'm ordering new Centric Premium rotors. Hopefully they really are 'premium', not like the OMIX drums I bought.
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:30 PM
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Be sure to "stake" the outer pad, many people do not and get noises.
I would try having the rotors turned vs. gambling on aftermarket junk they peddle these days.
Unless you have a wicked vibration braking they likely be fine?
Might not even be the rotor could be the hub that is causing runout.
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Be sure to "stake" the outer pad, many people do not and get noises.
Tony - do you bend those circled tabs toward the caliper center to take up the slack?

'fraid I don't have much choice on the rotors.
To get .018 down to the allowed .005 would mean .012" removed from the rotor. The rotor measures 1.221 and 1.222 now. So the only way that might stay within spec would be if a machine shop could just take .0055 off the high section on one side and .0055 from the high section on the other side. 1.215" is the minimum

That's why I feel its worth a chance on the centrics premiums. Centric is a much bigger operation than OMIX and controls their own manufacturing. Castings are definately purchased by contract, but that doesn't guarentee its junk, just means QC has to be imposed in different way.

Believe me, I knew OMIX ones were going to be a gamble. No choice, needed something - the drums were toast. Rust holes through the lip!
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body by beer (PO)
carries wood inside
no "wood" outside
My other car is a fish
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2019, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nograin
Tony - do you bend those circled tabs toward the caliper center to take up the slack?

Yep, wedge something between center of bottom pad metal piece & hub.
Then smack top tabs to tighten them up.
Pads shouldn't rattle around or you can get noise(s).
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:18 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nograin
the drums were toast. Rust holes through the lip!
Oh, is that bad?.... Mine don't even have much lip left. Last I knew they were partially hanging off of them. Could easily stab or cut myself if I wasn't careful. Most of that just rusted away- like the rest of my jeep tried to do before it was mine. Anyways, I never thought much of it, just put them drums back on after doing brake work on it and carried on. Been driving with them like that for something like 3 years with no issue
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  #11  
Old 03-22-2019, 07:31 AM
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Short version is the drums needed to be turned because the left rear parking brake cable was seized. Unfortunately it took me almost 4 years and several thous miles to figure that out.


I'm somewhat picky about brakes, or at least try to be.
I'll start a seperate thread on the drum brakes.

I will say here that I like the Bendix Metlok pads better than the Raybestos pads that I was using. The Metloks brake just as well but better modulation; less grabby at the initial bite. Because of that it feels like it helps the rears do their job and the braking feels a lot more controlled, especially with no cargo weight.
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