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Old 04-30-2014, 07:35 PM
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badaboom badaboom is offline
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Anybody running a Hydraulic clutch setup?

Anybody running a Hydraulic clutch setup?

If so, what is your setup - Setup Like?

Thanks,,,,,Advice
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1981 Jeep J10 Laredo, 401-V8, 625 Carter, Lunati 262/268, Edelbrock Performer, MSD Ign., Hydroboost, Hyd. Clutch, Flow Cooler WP, Be Cool Aluminum Radiator, Doug Thorley, NV4500 5-Spd, NP-231D, 3.73 F/R Trac-Locs, Rustys 4" Lift, Vintage Red Metallic, Black Interior and 33X10.50X15 BFG, FiTech400 to come - IN PROCESS Bling Bling Cha-Ching
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:46 PM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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NV4500 slave cylinder and a '63 FSJ brake master. Works well.
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  #3  
Old 04-30-2014, 08:00 PM
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badaboom badaboom is offline
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Do you have any pics of the pedal and clutch rod into the master cylinder?
I'm trying to understand the geometry from the/a bell crank to a 45 degree clutch rod/mechanical to bell crank transitioned to a straight clutch rod into the clutch master cylinder...Any good reference material? new hole required for firewall any infor...?
Working with 1981 Jeep J10

Thanks
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1981 Jeep J10 Laredo, 401-V8, 625 Carter, Lunati 262/268, Edelbrock Performer, MSD Ign., Hydroboost, Hyd. Clutch, Flow Cooler WP, Be Cool Aluminum Radiator, Doug Thorley, NV4500 5-Spd, NP-231D, 3.73 F/R Trac-Locs, Rustys 4" Lift, Vintage Red Metallic, Black Interior and 33X10.50X15 BFG, FiTech400 to come - IN PROCESS Bling Bling Cha-Ching
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  #4  
Old 05-02-2014, 01:12 AM
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Carnuck Carnuck is offline
 
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I had mine mocked up with an XJ clutch master, and GM hydroboost brakes with FSJ pedals but I didn't make the firewall hole. I fell off a ladder, broke my right shoulder and tore the tendons in my left leg so driving stick isn't in my future anymore. I drove the '71 Loadstar 5 ton just 10 miles and I was hurting so bad by the time I got to the new owner's place it took 2 days to use my arm again.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:23 AM
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Bill Moore Bill Moore is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnuck
I had mine mocked up with an XJ clutch master, and GM hydroboost brakes with FSJ pedals but I didn't make the firewall hole. I fell off a ladder, broke my right shoulder and tore the tendons in my left leg so driving stick isn't in my future anymore. I drove the '71 Loadstar 5 ton just 10 miles and I was hurting so bad by the time I got to the new owner's place it took 2 days to use my arm again.

sorry to hear,

I use several hydraulic set ups for my nv4500, but prefer the mechanical set up.
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  #6  
Old 12-24-2014, 11:59 AM
79jeep1 79jeep1 is offline
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bump

Anybody have pics of there hydraulic/mechanical setup on an nv4500 they would care to share with me??
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Last edited by 79jeep1 : 12-24-2014 at 01:30 PM.
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  #7  
Old 12-24-2014, 12:22 PM
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Bill Moore Bill Moore is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79jeep1
Anybody have pics of there mechanical setup on an nv4500 they would care to share with me??

you should be able to use the stock setup if you are using the original engine, or something similar.
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67 KJ715 4bt AA OD 465 np205
78 J20 Chevy 305 nv4500 np205

Projects

Sons Build 1980 short bed J10, j20 axles, 4bt, nv4500, np205, shortened M715 bed and fenders

Freedom is not Free, it is paid for with Blood
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  #8  
Old 12-24-2014, 01:07 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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I've had a few OEM set ups. Other than easier pedal pressure never saw the big attraction, but when they work they work well. Usually the weak link is the slave so if you lash up your own I "highly" suggest using an external slave rather than one inside the bellhousing. I completely re-did the stock set up in my 63, new slave, MC and lines, works well. Whatever route you go do yourself a favor and flush the fluid yearly. It'll keep the slave from going south as quick. Some systems seem to last longer than others. In my 82 CJ8 I replaced the slave every 25-30,000 miles(Girling/lucas made OEM part) but the ones in my in my MB's lasted a long time. I've had 4 or 5 MB 240D's and earliest I've had to replace the slave was at 275,000 and the last MB I had was still running the original salve/mc at 405,000 miles.
Personally I would stick with manual clutch linkage...lot less maint grief but to each his own. We all pick our own demons.
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  #9  
Old 12-24-2014, 05:58 PM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Location: New Haven, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe
I've had a few OEM set ups. Other than easier pedal pressure never saw the big attraction, but when they work they work well. Usually the weak link is the slave so if you lash up your own I "highly" suggest using an external slave rather than one inside the bellhousing. I completely re-did the stock set up in my 63, new slave, MC and lines, works well. Whatever route you go do yourself a favor and flush the fluid yearly. It'll keep the slave from going south as quick. Some systems seem to last longer than others. In my 82 CJ8 I replaced the slave every 25-30,000 miles(Girling/lucas made OEM part) but the ones in my in my MB's lasted a long time. I've had 4 or 5 MB 240D's and earliest I've had to replace the slave was at 275,000 and the last MB I had was still running the original salve/mc at 405,000 miles.
Personally I would stick with manual clutch linkage...lot less maint grief but to each his own. We all pick our own demons.

I have had a lot more trouble with worn balljoints and out of adjustment linkages in my mechanical clutch linkage setups than in the hydraulic conversions I've done. In my experience they have been vastly less maintenance-intensive.
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  #10  
Old 12-25-2014, 08:41 AM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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The mechanical setup can have a issue where when you have the vehicle flexed off road, if the frame is not super stiff it can partly disengage the clutch or make it bind. I had the problem with the stock linkage on my old 1960 CJ-6. I also have a little problem with it on my 79 cherokee. Heck, if I hit the gas hard enough I can feel the clutch pedal move.

I plan on swapping in a hyd setup when I swap in my NV4500. I have been looking at either the novak kit, or modding some type of a stock setup with a custom bellhousing bracket.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcra.htm
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  #11  
Old 12-25-2014, 09:05 AM
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Bill Moore Bill Moore is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns
The mechanical setup can have a issue where when you have the vehicle flexed off road, if the frame is not super stiff it can partly disengage the clutch or make it bind. I had the problem with the stock linkage on my old 1960 CJ-6. I also have a little problem with it on my 79 cherokee. Heck, if I hit the gas hard enough I can feel the clutch pedal move.

I plan on swapping in a hyd setup when I swap in my NV4500. I have been looking at either the novak kit, or modding some type of a stock setup with a custom bellhousing bracket.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/kit_hcra.htm

Ive had lots of both types, in the end, I prefer the Mechanical set up hands down. Issues are much easier to resolve, and expedient repairs can be made
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DDs
67 KJ715 4bt AA OD 465 np205
78 J20 Chevy 305 nv4500 np205

Projects

Sons Build 1980 short bed J10, j20 axles, 4bt, nv4500, np205, shortened M715 bed and fenders

Freedom is not Free, it is paid for with Blood
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  #12  
Old 12-25-2014, 05:20 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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I originally used a master+slave+hose from an early 80's CJ with the 4 cylinder. Master cylinder bore was 13/16 (0.8125") Slave cylinder 7/8" (0.875") and the hose bolted right up. master-clave ratio was 1:0.93

The clutch was a bit heavy (wife couldn't drive it) and the pedal travel was as follows:
1/3 was moving throwout bearing to fingers on pressure plate
1/3 to engage/disengage pressure plate
1/3 was just extra compression...

I now use a master from a 90 wrangler that's 11/16" (0.6875") bore with the same CJ slave and my pedal is a lot lighter and 60% of the travel is to engage/disengage the pressure plate now that its is better adjusted too. New master-slave ratio is 1:0.79 so about 14% easier to depress with 14% more travel required.

Could also use the 13/16" master with a 1" slave to get the same 1:0.80 ratio.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2015, 05:49 PM
thomasmont thomasmont is offline
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Hydra clutch in J10

I am installing a hydra-clutch in my 84 J10. I purchased the early 80's 4L engine clutch slave and master cylinder. I've built the slave bracket, but I am not sure of the master to pedal hook up. The clutch pedal is quite heavy duty and with a spring which, pulls the pedal towards the floor. ??? Can I get some help on the hook up? I'm thinking I'll need to remove the vac booster.

I'm using the stock 4 spd trans behind a 351 Windsor.

Last edited by thomasmont : 12-02-2015 at 05:53 PM.
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