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  #1  
Old 07-02-2018, 01:54 PM
woodrow woodrow is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
Location: Long Island
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Angry Fusible link

I keep blowing the fusible link at solinoid , leaves truck powerless. I changed it out for a 30 A glass fuse so I can fix on the run. It happens intermittently.
Is this a common issue that someone can advise where to look. Harnesses are un molested
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  #2  
Old 07-02-2018, 09:13 PM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
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Location: oregon
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It shouldn't be happening, you have a real problem. unless you have some serious add ons drawing juice then you have a short going to ground somewhere.




If it were me I'd disconnect the battery when not in use until you find the problem. I do that on all my old rigs anyway.
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  #3  
Old 07-02-2018, 10:34 PM
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scout4bta scout4bta is offline
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Or you have a high resistance some where in the circuit.
When you have high resistance voltage goes down and current goes up.
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Found, the perfect Wagoneer to Dieselize, 1989 GW 360, 727, NP208
1980 IH Scout/4BTA/NV4500/Atlas 4.3/DYNO:172(HP),432(ft-lbs)25mpg

Last edited by scout4bta : 07-02-2018 at 10:48 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-03-2018, 08:52 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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The fusible link is meant to protect the car from a shorted battery in case of a wreck or other catastrophe. If you are blowing the fusible link, you have a serious short to ground somewhere.

Year, model?
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #5  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:41 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
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Location: Long Island
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I don't have any add ons , I figured it must be a short to ground.

could the short causing it to blow be anywhere in the vehicle or is that link localized to a certain loop

finding shorts not my strength
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  #6  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:43 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
Location: Long Island
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89 grand wagoneer
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  #7  
Old 07-03-2018, 10:35 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Location: Medford MA USA
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There is a wiring diagram for an '88 here. http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/GW_wiring.html No '89 - you need the TSM for 1989. Available on CD-RM from ROckAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...182372&jsn=365 The '88 diagram is likely the same, and shows 4 fusible links. Which one is the problem?



From the link, start tracing forward with your multimeter until you find the short.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 07-03-2018 at 11:31 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:02 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
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Perfect, I have a plan

Thanks
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  #9  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:05 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
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Location: Long Island
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OK 1 more question

Would any of those links render the vehicle dead, won't run
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  #10  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:30 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Sure, the one to D4 would cut ignition power. I suspect that powers the whole dash.
I left out the link to the '88 diagram. Fixed now.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #11  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:35 AM
woodrow woodrow is offline
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Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
Location: Long Island
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What does D4 represent
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  #12  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:40 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Don't know. It's a label, not a thing - should not let it throw you off. It may be described in the text that goes along with the diagram. I suspect that diagram was copied from a Hayne's or Chilton's manual, not the TSM.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #13  
Old 07-03-2018, 12:18 PM
woodrow woodrow is offline
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Join Date: Dec 25, 2005
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Awesome, Thanks again
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  #14  
Old 07-03-2018, 12:44 PM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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d-4 most likely is location in firewall connector
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  #15  
Old 07-03-2018, 02:29 PM
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Woodchomper Woodchomper is offline
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woodrow....I'm not so sure I would trust a 30A glass fuse in your application. Most glass fuses are fast-blow fuses. You might be better off using a 30A circuit breaker while you are isolating your problem. At least then if blows your vehicle run once the circuit cools off and resets itself.

Also, if you post the year of your Jeep it may help others to help you out.

I would stick to using the TSM (for your year) to do the wiring troubleshooting.
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1991 GW 401 /727TF/NP229 /4" Skyjacker /EBL TBI /CS-144
1981 J10 401 /727TF/NP208 /6" Superlift /CS-144

Last edited by Woodchomper : 07-03-2018 at 02:38 PM.
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  #16  
Old 07-03-2018, 06:33 PM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Location: Philadelphia, Pa., USA
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Although not the same as an ammeter- single fusible link system, I think Chrysler's suggestion of using a 4 to 5 amp circuit breaker for troubleshooting is still a good one. It will trip quickly, before damage, and will save you the trouble of buying lots of fuses while trying to trace the problem.


On an '86 the link to the ignition switch looks as shown here.
http://www.heritech.org/wagoneer/mggw5a.html


IF '88 is similar, you can test for conditions when the switch is off, as well as in RUN, Start and Access. If it ever trips with the switch in OFF, then their is short (such as bad insulation) before the switch. If it happens in Run or other positions, its the switch or cirvcuits on the side.
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  #17  
Old 07-03-2018, 10:53 PM
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scout4bta scout4bta is offline
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Heres a LINK to a full range of FSJ factory service manuals, fully downloadable including the 1989 FSM.
The electrical diagrams for the GW are section 8 page 292.
The starter relay is in section 15-5 where the fusible links are.

Start by checking voltages along the circuit. Note you battery voltage at the terminal where the fusible links are (the 5/16 stud) look for voltage loss along the circuit.
__________________
Found, the perfect Wagoneer to Dieselize, 1989 GW 360, 727, NP208
1980 IH Scout/4BTA/NV4500/Atlas 4.3/DYNO:172(HP),432(ft-lbs)25mpg

Last edited by scout4bta : 07-05-2018 at 05:51 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-05-2018, 05:52 PM
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scout4bta scout4bta is offline
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Here are the wiring diagrams from for the 89 GW from the FSM
15-4 by , on Flickr
15 5 by , on Flickr
15 6 by , on Flickr
15-8 by , on Flickr
15-14 by , on Flickr
15-27 by , on Flickr
15-31 by , on Flickr
15-44 by , on Flickr
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Found, the perfect Wagoneer to Dieselize, 1989 GW 360, 727, NP208
1980 IH Scout/4BTA/NV4500/Atlas 4.3/DYNO:172(HP),432(ft-lbs)25mpg
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