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  #41  
Old 05-08-2011, 06:27 PM
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hotjimmy hotjimmy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW79J10
I put 1/2" bars on each side to brace it, that is what you see in the front middle of the pic. And about coughing up the $$$.. Well I am just a poor boy, but I am a welder and have been fabricating parts for awhile. I will let you know how it holds up

I understand that $$$ is tight for many, but you need to cut that off and do it right. That is NOT OK. Neither is a Z style or bent drag link. Either save your pennies to do it correct and safe or DON'T do it. Please don't take this as anything more than being concerned and hopefully educational.
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Buggy- EZ-EFI 401, 727, D300, 60's, 1.75" DOM chassis, 42" Sticky Iroks
Thanks! Interco Tire, Sierra Gear & Axle, Powertank, Raceline Wheels, HereticFab, & Reid Racing

'82 CJ-7- AMC 401 Edyl Heads, Forged pistons, NP435, D20, Waggy D44's, Spool/Detroit, 4.56's, 36" Irok's

'77 Chero- 360, T18, D20, D44, SF14B, 35" BFG AT's

Last edited by hotjimmy : 05-08-2011 at 07:00 PM.
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  #42  
Old 05-08-2011, 08:49 PM
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blazer3664 blazer3664 is offline
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Cost more to try fixing it later, thats why mine isnt on the road yet. I am doing what I can as the money/parts are available, so that it will be DONE right.
And when it is done, it is DONE, not good for now and being re-done later.
Key word in all that is ???

Yep.

Jim
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  #43  
Old 05-08-2011, 10:26 PM
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Kenall Kenall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotjimmy
I understand that $$$ is tight for many, but you need to cut that off and do it right. That is NOT OK. Neither is a Z style or bent drag link. Either save your pennies to do it correct and safe or DON'T do it. Please don't take this as anything more than being concerned and hopefully educational.


Why do you fear the Z bar.
Breakage?
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  #44  
Old 05-09-2011, 12:02 AM
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hotjimmy hotjimmy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenall
Why do you fear the Z bar.
Breakage?
Yes.

I know that there will be a few who will disagree and tell stories of how their friend, brother, cousin, or themselves has been beating on it without ever having a problem, but it's a bad idea.

#1 is that it is not a safe way to build a steering drag link. The strongest link is one that is perfectly straight. A bend will create a stress point that weakens this push/pull link. I know that some FACTORY drag links have a mild bend or 2 in them, but these are usually made of better material and still often bend when larger tires are installed or during even mild offroading.

#2 is that your welds WILL fatigue and possibly fail on a "Z" link. I realize that everyone is an expert welder and it wont happen to them because their welds won't fail, but why risk it? Its not worth it on something so important. Also, those stress points are still there at every bend, even if you braced or gusseted it. In fact, your weld may have actually wekened the material you welded up. The heat affected zone (H.A.Z.) causes a change in the hardness of the materials, which often causes the material to fail next to the weld.

#3 is that unless you are running a 3 link w/ a panhard front suspension, you want your drag link as flat as possible. The more severe the angle, the more bumpsteer you will potentially have. That means that as your suspension compresses (straight up with most suspensions), either the wheel will try and move in your hands or the vehicle will abruptly turn to the right.

I think that people underestimate the amount of force and constant fatigue that your steering takes. Think about the force that is multiplied by steering boxes and power steering pumps. Every pot hole or bump that jolts your entire vehicle. Now think about having messed up geometry with a bent or welded drag link in that system.

Much of this applies to suspension mounts as well. Why risk hacking something together that can potentially hurt or kill someone if they were to fail?

There are a few treads on different forums that have some great examples of what NOT to do. Check them out if you get some time to kill. They are entertaining at least.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=849050
http://128.83.80.200/taco/scarysteering.html
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Buggy- EZ-EFI 401, 727, D300, 60's, 1.75" DOM chassis, 42" Sticky Iroks
Thanks! Interco Tire, Sierra Gear & Axle, Powertank, Raceline Wheels, HereticFab, & Reid Racing

'82 CJ-7- AMC 401 Edyl Heads, Forged pistons, NP435, D20, Waggy D44's, Spool/Detroit, 4.56's, 36" Irok's

'77 Chero- 360, T18, D20, D44, SF14B, 35" BFG AT's

Last edited by hotjimmy : 05-09-2011 at 12:04 AM.
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  #45  
Old 05-09-2011, 07:09 AM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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dangit, they found my build thread
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  #46  
Old 05-09-2011, 10:51 AM
cheerokeecrawler cheerokeecrawler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68


dangit, they found my build thread
A few of these fatality rigs here in NM!!!!
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  #47  
Old 05-09-2011, 11:14 AM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheerokeecrawler
A few of these fatality rigs here in NM!!!!

I know, I've seen them in Farmington.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
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  #48  
Old 05-09-2011, 11:21 AM
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Headhoncho Headhoncho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68


dangit, they found my build thread


Pictures like this are why I'm glad NJ DOT has their lifted vehicle stability tests. This abomination wouldn't even make it through the door for the safety examination. It may even be the poster child for that matter. (sorry Gambler) They have a strict policy of no bends in the drag link, a maximum overall drag link angle, and no stacked blocks unless welded together, to name a few rules. Some of these sky high show trucks are neat to look at but very scary when you see some of the engineering used to get them that high.


JR
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1980 Honcho Sportside w/37's, 351c, 14" lift, D44high pinion w/Aussie, crossover steering, 14b w/detroit, np435, 205, 5.13's, 4whl discs, hb brakes, OBAir, rusted out cab,
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  #49  
Old 05-09-2011, 12:55 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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just to clarify..it's not really mine. It's from the Pirate link :P
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #50  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:59 AM
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Casey Casey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68


dangit, they found my build thread
Epic fail
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  #51  
Old 05-15-2011, 10:29 PM
fsj4life fsj4life is offline
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use high steer arms

I used ford 3/4 ton axels with driver side drop all u need to do is drill and tap the right. Side flat top knuckel find some high steer arms for a 44 off ebay for cheap then get a 4 inch drop pitman arm run a 1 inch spacer under the arms so the drag link and tie rod r parallel with each other use 1.50 1/4 inch wall DOM with heim joints get rid of the junky ball joints and the shady steering set up everyone else is running let me know if u need any more help
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  #52  
Old 05-15-2011, 10:54 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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I am considering heims if the angle is too extreme for the TREs that came with my kit. They'll likely dry out before I'd ever wear them out.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #53  
Old 05-16-2011, 05:44 PM
fsj4life fsj4life is offline
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pics

If I knew how to put up pics I would but I don't this is all new to me u have any pics of your Jeep
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  #54  
Old 05-30-2011, 08:44 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Got my spring pack down to 2" thick..what do you guys think? Will a 1" spacer (I have) cut it? The tube is resting on the spring pack for that pic. I am not sure of the correct or good amount of clearance to have between the spring top and the tube. It's .250 DOM.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #55  
Old 05-31-2011, 05:03 AM
Topgun2mo Topgun2mo is offline
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That measurement would probably decrease with spring droop and get better with compression. I think I would try and get a measurement with that side drooping and see what you get.

Meant to say decrease.
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  #56  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:17 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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welp..I'll try that next week and see what I net. Thanks.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #57  
Old 05-31-2011, 02:57 PM
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Tad Tad is offline
 
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Ryan, all these tend to be a little different, at least in minor respects.
I had about 3/16" clearance between the jam nut and the spring pack, ran it that way for over 5 years without an issue.



That was setup #1, too close for comfort.
I added a 3/16" spacer and wound up here at full droop.

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Last edited by Tad : 05-31-2011 at 03:01 PM.
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  #58  
Old 05-31-2011, 06:32 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Nice, ty Tad.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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  #59  
Old 06-01-2011, 10:25 PM
fsj4life fsj4life is offline
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Lightbulb ball joints suck

If u r going through all the trouble in doing high steer go with hiem joints with a 1/2 spacer under the joint use 7/8 heims with 3/4 eye some one please tell me how to put pics on here so I can show u
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  #60  
Old 06-03-2011, 03:16 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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You can put spacers under a heim joint? That'd certainly help! When comparing the spacer I have to the installed knuckle, I realized that the holes are drilled slightly off from each other (not surprising, each was sourced seperately. So I'm removing the one on the truck, and installing the complete other knuckle that is already set up with a bit over 1" lift in it (sadly, I had already knocked it apart, but oh well). The arm bends in a bit more, but that'll give me some clearance anyways with the rim, can't be a bad thing.

Easiest way to post pictures:

sign up at Photobucket.com it's free and easy

upload your pictures to the site. It usually resizes them to a usable size by default. Click on the picture when its uploaded, look near the bottom, and you'll see a few different lines of code that you click on to copy. Use the one with the IMG tags in it. Paste that over here in your message. Voila! best way to post pics here. If you look around in General Discussion I think, there is even a thread that explains it better, it's a sticky thread at the top, can't miss it. http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=83038
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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