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Old 05-08-2002, 11:53 AM
BigBadWag BigBadWag is offline
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Join Date: Mar 07, 2002
Location: Chatt, TN
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My front differential is leaking from the part where the front driveshaft goes into the back of the differential. The fluid is running down the back of the differential and dripping off at the bottom making a puddle under the axle. It's not a really fast leak, but it makes a puddle about the size of the head of a Coke can every 2 days or so. What should I do to fix this leak? Is there some seal to replace? By the way, it's a Dana 44. Any Advice? -Zach
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Old 05-08-2002, 12:45 PM
jeepers jeepers is offline
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Sounds like the pinion seal is leaking.Remove driveshaft and the yolk,pull seal out and install new one.Check fluid in housing be sure to fill.
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Old 05-08-2002, 12:52 PM
rigger rigger is offline
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if you have the know how to tear your hubs apart pull the axles and third member (carrier and/or crown,) then i would still just call it a leak and leave it if it isn't to bad . or try and count the threads and take tourqe readings as to how much tourqe it takes to turn your pinion. but this is very risky so because preload was set with just the pinion in so i am warning you. once you have these recorded bust lose the pinion nut and pull the yoke and there is the seal pry it out tap in a new one and put the yoke on then a NEW pinion nut on and keep torqueing till you reach the same amount of preload and then give it one more little and i do mean little turn like 20* or close to that and take a pre load torque reading and it should be just an inch pound or so higher because you want to make sur that you are getting tight upto if not a little more crush on the crush sleave but to much and you will burn out the bearings and have to tear apart the whole diff to swap bearings. but realy if it is just a few drops that are giving your diff a wet look i would leave it but if it is pooling as you said i would swap seals out . just my thoughts i am sure you will get more advice do what is best for your ability it is not hard just be carfull and do it slow
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yaya looks nice,but does she GO!?<br /><br />1981 cherokee lerado 360/727/208/d44/amc20 Wt<br />posi fnt & bck<br />.030\" overbore <br />crank shaved .010\" and line bored<br />balanced blueprinted<br />crane cam ,lifters<br />edelbrock preformer intake<br />edelbrock 650cfm four barrel carb<br />Tfi upgrade<br />3\" dynomax ultra flo exaust<br />custom lift springs <br />31\" bfg at\'s<br />CBR929 firblade<br />68 roadrunner 383 12.2 1/4 mile<br />original #\'s car
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Old 05-08-2002, 12:57 PM
Bob Barry Bob Barry is offline
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Luckily, the D44 front (and rear) axles used shims rather than a crush-sleeve to set the pinion bearing preload, so the seal replacement is just a matter of removing the yoke nut, pulling the yoke, yanking the seal, driving on the new seal, reinstalling the yoke, and tightening the nut to spec (something like 250 ft/lbs; effectively, as tight as you can get it).

If you were unlucky enough to have a leaking seal on a rear AMC20 axle, though, you would have to worry about changing the bearing preload by overtightening the nut.
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  #5  
Old 05-08-2002, 01:13 PM
rigger rigger is offline
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yes that is the amc20 diff
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yaya looks nice,but does she GO!?<br /><br />1981 cherokee lerado 360/727/208/d44/amc20 Wt<br />posi fnt & bck<br />.030\" overbore <br />crank shaved .010\" and line bored<br />balanced blueprinted<br />crane cam ,lifters<br />edelbrock preformer intake<br />edelbrock 650cfm four barrel carb<br />Tfi upgrade<br />3\" dynomax ultra flo exaust<br />custom lift springs <br />31\" bfg at\'s<br />CBR929 firblade<br />68 roadrunner 383 12.2 1/4 mile<br />original #\'s car
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