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  #581  
Old 04-03-2014, 08:07 AM
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Strode Strode is offline
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I will post what I know about the Avital 3300 system. I talked to a pro alarm guy and he recommended Avital for the self installer. Avital was the only brand I could find instructions on the web for. They are made by Directed Electronics, who make Viper and others. Same stuff as Viper, 1/2 the price.

I picked the 3300 because I didn't want remote start, I don't think it would work well with a carb'd truck. Maybe it would, dunno.

Directed has a website with some knowledge on it:

http://support.directed.com/Default.aspx

Here's the instructions for the 3300:

http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008-12web.pdf

To be continued….
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  #582  
Old 04-03-2014, 08:37 AM
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I only know about this alarm and how I put it in my Jeep. I'm no alarm expert. So, here's the instructions for the Avital 3300:

http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008-12web.pdf

Most of it is self explanatory, I will just note the ones that were iffy to me:

H1/1 neg 200ma channel 2 validity output. This can be wired to a trunk release or a relay to do what you want. I didn't use this.

H1/6 pos Door trigger input - I did not use, our Jeeps have negative door trigger inputs, but that depends on how you set it up. I used H1/8. This is the opposite of H1/8.

H1/7 neg Multiplex channel input This is a negative signal trigger for all your accessories. I added a tilt sensor, a sonic interior sensor and hood opening ball bearing switches. You can put as many sensors as you want on this, but they all must be separated by diodes. I'll will post a link to The 12Volt.com at the end of this, there is a TON of great information on there, and they show using diodes to separate input sensors.

H1/8 neg door trigger This goes to the blacks off the door switches. I also added a switch under the dash so I could turn off the interior lights when I left the doors open for a long time. I put the switch in after the input to the alarm, so if I forgot and left the switch on (interior lights off) the alarm would still get the signal.

I also added extra interior lights, so I had to put in a ground triggered relay to operate my extra lights. That is wired after the added switch. (*All our interior lights are constant hot, switched ground. If I had thought about it, I would have made my extra interior lights that way too, but I didn't. I wired them switched hot, constant ground, so I had to add the relay).

There are bullet connectors under the dash for the blacks where they come together with the light switch ground.

H1/9 Output of interior light illumination relay #30 This one had me stumped. This is the output wire of a relay inside the brain. This wire is the output wire of whatever you put as the input wire on H2/G. If you connect +12v to H2/G, you will get +12v out of this relay. If you connect a ground to H2/G, you will get a ground out of this wire when the relay is activated. Think of this as term 30 of a relay, and H2/G as terminal 87 of a relay. They are connected when the relay is triggered.

So, if you were doing it 'stock' to a Jeep, you would want H2/G to be a ground, and H1/9 would put a ground out to light the interior lights when you unlock with the remote. You would connect this wire to the black wires that put a ground on the interior lights.

I had to wire this to my additional relay and the black of the stock lights. I think I tapped into the light switch with this one (which was connected to my relay also). The light switch puts a ground on the circuit when you turn the knob to light the interior lights.



H1/10 neg 200ma channel 3 validity output. Did not use, you could use this for power windows and stuff.

H1/11 pos/neg selectable light flash As it comes, this is positive signal. You can change it to a negative signal by opening the brain and moving a shunt. I kept it positive. This goes to your parking lights. It's supposed to be able to drive a 10 amp circuit. Iffy to me, so I put this to a relay, not directly to the parking lights. The parking lights are white wires off the switch picture I posted above.

H1/12 neg ground when armed I added little LEDs around the cabin when the alarm was armed, as a maybe deterrent, and also a strobing LED. You can see the lights from outside when the system is armed. This is the ground source for those.

Also, I wired the grounds of my added sensors (tilt, sonic, hood) to this ground, so they are only active when the system is armed.

Door lock harness H2 I added power door locks.

I got these actuators like these:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...sche-DLA1.html

They say they are 2 wire, they are actually 5 wire, and no instructions, so I had to figure out which wires were what. I have it somewhere what wires I used but I can't find it now.

I used this positive pulse system to wire the door actuators shown on the bottom of page 4 here:

http://www.dlcparts.com/images/BoschGuide.pdf

(*Bookmark that PDF. It's a excellent guide for how to use relays)

So my new door actuators are 12v positive triggered. Back to the door lock harness…On the Avital instructions, I will be Type A, positive triggered relay driven system. I won't go into the colors of what's what, but putting the Page 4 PDF together with the Type A of the alarm, you should be able to figure out what's what. I did not connect H2/C or H2/F.

I have switches in both doors for the door actuators too. You wouldn't want to put in a alarm without power door locks.

I do not know what system Jeeps with factory power door locks had.

H2/G Domelight supervision relay -This is the input wire to whatever you want outputted on H1/9. Ground in on H2/G, ground out on H1/9 when relay is activated.

H4 starter interrupt - You cut the blue wire coming off the loom at the base of the steering column, and wire these wires in & out of the alarm here.

Those were the hard ones. The above may contain gross errors, but those are off of my unreadable notes. The hardest thing was trying to figure off of the instructions what they were talking about. Any other type of alarm system, I have no idea about.

This website is invaluable. There is TONS of information here:

http://www.the12volt.com
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Last edited by Strode : 04-03-2014 at 02:56 PM.
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  #583  
Old 04-03-2014, 09:08 AM
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Thanks Brad! That is pretty involved.
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  #584  
Old 04-03-2014, 04:27 PM
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I knew you could do it!

Great job, now get it on the road!

LOL
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  #585  
Old 04-07-2014, 04:24 PM
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I put the new headliner material on the cardboard. No issues with that job.



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  #586  
Old 04-07-2014, 04:37 PM
silvercert silvercert is offline
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Any advice on doing a headliner
myself?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strode
I put the new headliner material on the cardboard. No issues with that job.



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  #587  
Old 04-07-2014, 04:40 PM
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The aluminum bumpers were groddy. I stripped off the anodizing using oven cleaner. One bumper started turning black right away, and the other took alot of applications to make it start working...



I started sanding after the oven cleaner did it's thing with 600 wet (soapy water) and then I went to 1000. My front bumper especially had lots of pock marks.



When you sand it all down with 1000, you're looking for a nice satiny finish.



When I had them all sanded, I started with a heavy wool buffing pad and the heavy duty rubbing compound.



You'll never be able to use these wool pads for paint again, just aluminum. It makes a black mess.

After the rubbing compound, I washed out that pad and went over everything again with Mothers Aluminum/Mag polish. They came out nice and shiny.



A person could spend all the time they wanted sanding out every pockmarked an making them perfect. I did not. I got them good enough for now. I can always go back and do more if I feel the need.

I found these lights at the junkyard on a Mitsubishi truck, I think. I wired them in my bumpers for rear lighting, and they work with same switch with my rear lights on my roof rack. I cut out holes in the bumpers for them.









Call them 'setting up camp' lights.
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  #588  
Old 04-07-2014, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvercert
Any advice on doing a headliner
myself?

As soon as you get the rolled up stuff, get it out of the roll and let it relax. Mine had wrinkles.

Scrape the cardboard really well, then we (I had my wife help me) layer it out, and held the sides with clothespins so we knew we had enough and wouldn't pull too much to one side. Then we pulled the clothespins, and worked one side from the middle out. I sprayed both side with glue. When one side was done, we did the other side.

It was fine, go slow and make it lay down smooth as you go. Do not wrap the material around the edges, just cut it flush with a razor blade.

The center section, I don't know if you know, is 2 pieces. Separate them. Put the upper piece in. The put the 2 headliner sections in, then put the 'cap' on.
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  #589  
Old 04-07-2014, 04:57 PM
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Interior shots. I am getting the blue seats turned brown in a couple of weeks. Should have planned that better. Upholstery shops are usually booked up months in advance.





I need to make the rear arm rests dark brown. I painted those early on, then things changed.



Hopefully the carpet and the console are installed for the final time, and I won't have to pull them out again.

But....one thing I will have to do again is the A/C unit. I was incredibly bummed to find out that I cannot get the glove box hinges in. I need to drop the A/C unit AGAIN to get those 4 little stupid screws holding the stupid hinges in.

Hopefully I can drop it enough to not mess with pulling slack in the hoses. If there were no hoses involved it would be nothing.

So, leaving the project for later.
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  #590  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:10 PM
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I got 32x11.5 tires.

I cannot figure out tire sizing. Every place I looked on the web said these should be 32" or 31.7" tall. They are not. They are 30" tall. The 31x10.5 I took off were 29" tall.

They look too small on here for me. I don't know if I'm going to see if the tire store will swap them out for me, or just drive them.



I'm also having trouble finding some center caps that fit these wheels exactly.

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  #591  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:16 PM
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I got some smaller Hella fog lights for the front.



I painted the bumperettes and the wrap around things with SEM bumper coating after scrubbing them good. They came out nice.



I can do alot more to the grill and the surround when I feel like it. I can strip and polish them. All I did for now was paint the Jeep and the thin line on the insert black. I might pull them off and work on them later, but for now I just wanted them on.

Like everything I've done on this project, by the time I was done painting the stripe in the insert, I was getting good at it. Not when I started though. It will pass for now.
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  #592  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:19 PM
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Looking good! I have 6 center caps for those wheels.
They would all need to be redone or powdercoated?
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  #593  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:24 PM
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I took a 're-set' day and pulled it out, and cleaned out the garage and put all my tools away.

The 'To Do' list is down to 1 page, from a high of 7 or 8. Still lots to do, but I'm getting there.
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  #594  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:28 PM
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Man, Brad, that truck is looking super sweet!
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  #595  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
Looking good! I have 6 center caps for those wheels.
They would all need to be redone or powdercoated?

Tony, the trouble I'm having is that the one's I tried, the 'lip' needs to be specifically for the wheels. If it's not right, it's too loose. The ones on the rear now are MT and they come with a O-ring, and it's too tight. Without the O ring, it's too loose. I tried the Summit brand too and they were too loose. It's kinda a big indent in these.

These are not marked with a brand anywhere, I think they're Ansens, but they don't say.

What brand are your caps?

Thanks, Matt.
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  #596  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:30 PM
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OEM Jeep from same style wheels, I thought you had stocker wheels...

These wheels...
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  #597  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:38 PM
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Oh, ok, no, those won't work. These are aftermarket wheels, and take push-thru caps. Thanks anyway.
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  #598  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:44 PM
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All you need is 12 little holes in those shiny wheels.
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  #599  
Old 04-07-2014, 06:47 PM
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Wow this thread is awesome. Great job Strode!I hope one day my 83 looks as good as yours.
I never knew that oven cleaner would take off the coating on the bumpers. It looks like I have a project for the weekend now, I thought I was going to have to sand them down to get that coating off.
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  #600  
Old 04-07-2014, 07:33 PM
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Tim (CJ5, awesome thread: Tim's thread) did his the hard way, by sanding. I think he started off with 180 grit?

The oven cleaner or aircraft stripper takes the anodizing off, and makes it much easier.
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