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  #1  
Old 03-16-2004, 09:39 AM
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grand_wag_85 grand_wag_85 is offline
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My carb is shot & I wanna rebuild it myself& also wanna throw in a new fuel pump.

How much should a carb rebuild kit be?
How much should the new fuel pump be?
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  #2  
Old 03-16-2004, 09:47 AM
snafubrian snafubrian is offline
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fuel pump at napa last week cost like $19, i just did it, i need to do my carb too, waiting on a local volunteer!! lol.
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  #3  
Old 03-16-2004, 09:58 AM
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grand_wag_85 grand_wag_85 is offline
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How hard is it to replace the fuel pump?
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  #4  
Old 03-16-2004, 10:03 AM
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jode jode is offline
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How hard is it to ride a bike?

It is the same question. If you know what you are doing, it is simple, if you are not mechanically inclined, and don't know a metering rod from a float, then it will be much more difficult. I tend to think that since you are asking this question, you probably would be best suited finding an experienced assistant to watch/assist you in your first attempt.
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  #5  
Old 03-16-2004, 10:15 AM
carrotman carrotman is offline
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Just cleaned and adjusted the 4 carbs on my Honda motorcycle. That part was easy. Getting them off the engine and putting them back on was the hard part. Getting the carb off the Jeep is easy. Just don't drop anything down the manifold. The directions are usually straightforward.
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Old 03-16-2004, 03:16 PM
Zack172 Zack172 is offline
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I rebuilt 2 holleys on my fsj, it was pretty easy. Just take it apart, clean everything, replace all the gaskets, seals, o-rings, and needles that come in the kit and reassemble. The instructions are usually a big exploded diagram (from holley at least) so its kind of confusing, but not that hard. But carb cleaner stinks and it never goes away haha.
Good luck

Zack
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  #7  
Old 03-16-2004, 04:59 PM
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UnkleMunky UnkleMunky is offline
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360 fuel pump should be in the $20 range....hopefully less, possibly a wee more. Shop around, but roughly in that range. They're not hard to replace...if you don't have a bunch of junk around it.

Rebuild kits for a 258 carter bbd are about $16 from my recent inquiries at parts stores here. I'd gather a 360 carb would be similar or slightly more. Maybe $20-25, but I'm guessing....shouldn't be horrible though. Supposedly, take your time, follow directions, and you'll be fine. Work on a clean area and keep parts lined up and maybe labeled as you take apart and then put in new parts to replace. Also....maybe getting same carb from a boneyard and practicing on that first would be safe. Maybe do that and then replace yours with that one.....if you do well. You're not stuck with a carb all apart if you flubbed it up then!

I haven't done one yet, but prolly will on my carters before long. Just did the idle tubes on one of mine, but would like to redo the whole thing.

....later....
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  #8  
Old 03-17-2004, 12:36 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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2 barrel or 4 barrel? Don't know the post-80 FSJs that well, but I believe it will have either a 2V (2 barrel) 2150 Motorcraft or a 4V 4350 Motorcraft.

I expect that the 2V will be a lot easier, and more likely to work when you put it back together. Last kit I bought for a 2100 (similar) at NAPA was $45.

One problem with home rebuilding is the dip. In the past, you'd take everything apart and immers the parts in a carb cleaning solution. In most states you can still buy the dip, but it's become less effective because of the removal of methylene chloride, a powerful solvent. http://www.deq.state.id.us/ptwo/VehiclMaint/v04.htm

Buying a 2.5 gal dip can here in MA costs about $50, and I'd have to special order from my local NAPA store. Sometimes you can use the spray cleaner instead - I've found Berryman's to be the best spray cleaner of what's available. Depends on how cruddy the carb is.

So, my advice - if you want to learn how to rebuild carbs, go ahead and rebuild this one. If you're trying to save money by doing something yourself that you'll likely never do again, it makes more sense to pay someone to rebuild your carb.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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  #9  
Old 03-17-2004, 02:13 AM
1BDWAGN 1BDWAGN is offline
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I just rebuilt a 2150 a few weeks ago. Not much to it. Here in AZ things don't corrode and rust so while using the DIP bucket is nice it isn't mandatory. I did go through about 4 cans of carb cleaner but I wanted to make sure I got everything. I used an old toothbrush on stubborn stuff and blew everything out with my air compressor afterwards. Just go slow, take your time. Take pictures before hand, the exploded parts diagram in the rebuild kit will show where everything goes. I called Checker and they listed a kit for a 2150@$39.99, then called Autozone and they had it for $22.99. Found a checker that had the kit in stock and they price matched and knocked off 5%. The brand was Niehoff, then buy a float. You may need a choke pull-off but you can test it to know for sure. Make sure you use a very wide flat blade screw driver to remove the jets. A regular one will not work. Mine were stuck a little but some PB Blaster worked good.
My mileage seems improved but I won't have the numbers till later this week.
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  #10  
Old 03-17-2004, 02:58 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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BTW you should clean everything with solvent last, after the dip carb cleaner. Any dip residue will soften the new seals.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #11  
Old 03-17-2004, 10:59 AM
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UnkleMunky UnkleMunky is offline
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Don't think 4v were available after like 78...at least stock. I forget what's in an '85, but if you haven't checked the Tech Library here, go:

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/fuel/index.shtml

There's some articles on rebuilding the 2100/2150 and some other stuff. Might help out!

Wish ya well...
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  #12  
Old 03-17-2004, 02:37 PM
NO6YHY NO6YHY is offline
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I'm a newbie with little mechanical experience, and just rebuilt my carb for the first time a couple weeks ago (at the suggestion of people on this forum). All in all it went okay, a few minor pitfalls, but whatever you do...

DON'T TAKE APART THE THROTTLE BUTTERFLIES!!!!!!!

Those little screws that hold the plates on are flattened on the opposite end so they won't come off and fall into the engine. What happens when you try to unscrew them is that the screw gets real hard to turn and then... IT BREAKS! Then you've got a tiny hole full of metal that there's no way to get out. Fortunately your uncle is a machinist and you have access to a drill press, but then you have to find new screws, and of course once you get them back in you'll want to flatten the ends of these like the others so they don't come out while you're driving. But when you take your awl and hammer the other end, IT BENDS THE ROD AND THEN THE THROTTLE WON'T TURN! So you have to take it apart AGAIN and break more screws! And then you notice this time that you had the rod leaning the wrong way, and you put the plates in at the wrong angle... so it needs to come apart again. MORE BROKEN SCREWS!!!

It's all back together now, but I think my life will be a few years shorter.
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  #13  
Old 03-17-2004, 03:22 PM
Zack172 Zack172 is offline
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If you're gonna pay somebody else to rebuild it, go to your local parts store and buy a new one. The local carb shop wanted 400 bucks CAD to rebuild a 2150. I bought one new (rebuilt) for 175 CAD. Like 130 US.
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  #14  
Old 03-17-2004, 04:43 PM
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irbob irbob is offline
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I know how you feel if you’re just getting started with mechanics and need a helping hand and maybe some confidence to start a project like this. The small parts can be intimidating and the instructions are all bottled up with one adjustment/calibration after another.

One thing that may help is to enlarge the carburetor parts break down big enough to set parts on so they will be easily identifiable for assembly. After rebuilding a few carbs you will be able to through all the parts in a bucket and not worry about it, but for now take your time, and clean everything very well.

One pet peeve of mine is mold-slag. I guess it comes from polishing internal gun parts. I have to remove all he slag I can when doing something like this. I also polish the horns for better airflow. Call me crazy but it makes me feel good anyway.

Have a go at it and have fun.
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  #15  
Old 03-17-2004, 10:52 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Regarding the throttle butterflies, that's good advice. They only really need to come out if you are going to bush a worn-out throttle shaft. Bushing the shaft is out of the realm of most home rebuilders.

Also, you don't really have to remove the jets in most cases. They are usually very tight, and they are made of soft brass. If you remove them, get a square-shank screwdriver with a sharp tip that fits tightly into the slot on the jet. Clamp the carb to the workbench, put the driver in the slot, put an adjustable wrench on the shank of the screwdriver. Push down hard with one hand on the driver, and turn the driver with the other hand on the wrench.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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