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Old 01-05-2020, 02:57 PM
digitalstartz digitalstartz is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2017
Location: Maryland
Posts: 8
Timing - Vacuum - Correct settings

91 GW. 360 with a freshly rebuilt 2150. All new vacuum lines, (EGR is new but disconnected because my CTO is shot). Air pumps removed. Manifold vacuum is great. Starts great, hesitates on throttle when cold, and will stall. My first thought was accelerator pump, but I just rebuild the carb. I’ve got the carb well set, I think, and I started looking into timing. New ignition module and coil.

The vacuum advance is connected to ported by PO. Timing sticker says 600rpm timing should be 17 deg. Mine is at 15. Lots of strings recommend a 5-10 degree at idle.

What’s the best setting for timing? (I’m at sea level). Could it be my cold hesitation/stalling problem?
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Old 01-05-2020, 03:22 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Join Date: Jun 08, 2005
Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
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stock low altitude is 10 - 15 may be slightly high for stocker.

i would look @ choke setting(s) if it's only when cold.
fast idle working? choke pulloff working?
with a carb even if perfect adjustment it needs a minute or a few to warm up before driving.

don't know your skill/experience level but many folks have never seen/driven a carb'd engine. They think you can just turn the key and go like EFI vehicles.
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Old 01-05-2020, 03:43 PM
digitalstartz digitalstartz is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2017
Location: Maryland
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I’m not the highest level expert, but started in my early teens rebuilding Quadrajets. My 73 vette Holley a few times. The 2150 I have done twice. But I’m not the best “carb adjuster”. I used this write up to adjust it all last time:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tec..._2150_carb.pdf

I will check it again for sure.

Is the vacuum advance on ported only ok?
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Old 01-05-2020, 05:35 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
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only difference between ported/manifold is @ idle.
above idle they are the same.
on ported = no vacuum timing advance @ idle
on manifold vacuum = the vacuum advance will be full amount.
personally i prefer them on manifold but opinions vary
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Old 01-06-2020, 09:04 PM
661warwagon 661warwagon is offline
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Join Date: Apr 21, 2016
Location: Bakersfield
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I just set mine to 10 runs like a champ
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Old 01-08-2020, 06:24 PM
Dave Jeeper Dave Jeeper is offline
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Join Date: Sep 08, 2019
Location: Denver, CO
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17 +/-2 degrees on the sticker is for high altitude. The EGR is different on the high altitude cars, not sure about the rest of the emission components. Have you checked your plugs and gapped them to .035"? If you are at sea level the gap is 9 degrees I think. Add 1 or 2 degrees for each thousand feet above sea level to the timing. Make sure that your cap and rotor are in good shape and that all of the ignition wires are clipped in place on the cap and plugs.



A vacuum leak will cause rough running. The vacuum control on the vacuum canister can be a hidden leak as can the vacuum to the brake booster. The brake booster vacuum hose can have a leak from rubbing ont he valve cover, the grommet at the booster can leak or the booster can have an internal leak.



Also the spacer under the carb can crack or be mounted loose and the carb hold down bolts can loosen causing a vacuum leak. You can try removing all of the vacuum lines from the vacuum ports and capping off all vacuum ports on the manifold and try idling and giving it gas in the driveway to see if it runs better. Don't try driving it with the vacuum disconnected from the brake booster or you may not be able to stop it.


If it idles and revs smoother with the vacuum ports plugged, then add them back one at a time and retest the idle and reving to see which vacuum line is causing the problem.
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