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  #61  
Old 06-24-2020, 10:01 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 195
Here are some pics of the 14b front build.
Also thanks to Childers Machine and welding for doing a fantastic job pulling the one tube and retubing the long side and using 3.375in, 1/2in wall tube.

the solid inner C tapped on before pressing. The short (drivers side) is 12in tube while the long side is a 24in tube.



One side pressed on and the other being aligned to have .2-.3 degrees lower caster to compensate for road crown.



Both sides fully pressed and upper kingpin installed along with the lower race and shield.



The crane revolution seal kit. It replaces the factory adjusters with ones that can hold a dana 60 seal.



The outers assembled without stubs. I machined the hubs down to accept a chevy 2500 HD rotor.




And finally the dry fit build without axle shafts. The calipers are the JB8 code and the pistons are 60mm diameter each. These calipers are huge. I am using the WFO concepts ford caliper brackets to mount the factory 2500 HD calipers to. i decided to get the JB8 calipers vs the JB7.




More to come as i finish the build this weekend.
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1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, 14b front kingpins, 14b rear, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 06-24-2020 at 10:18 PM.
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  #62  
Old 06-26-2020, 11:48 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
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Holy bulletproof Batman! That looks great!

Are these pictures taken in your garage, your shop, or someone else's shop? I envy the room and tools you have!
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  #63  
Old 07-01-2020, 09:38 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 06, 2008
Location: Everett, Washington
Posts: 195
Very long story and multiple locations... My 6.5 swap was done in my driveway... then I moved to Everett WA where the block cracked and it was put in a 15x40 storage unit where I swapped the 5.9 into it... That is where I learned to gas weld (oxy acetylene). Then I moved back to Albuquerque and was working part time at PepBoys. So all the tools are mine, but in PepBoys shop. The manager let me work on it on my lunch and before and after my shifts.

I’m currently using my brothers garage he just built, it’s 24x24. We are neighbors and he’s letting me keep my tools in there.

It weighs in about 800 lbs, a bit more than the rear. And the inner shafts are massive compared to the 35 spline stubs. I didn’t get pictures in all my excitement... Branik used 40 spline Yukon blanks and cut the 30 spline GM profile and turned the area for the seals. The shaft measures 1.625 in diameter, necked down to 1.565 for the seal and splines.

Only reason I even considered a 14b front was I had a spare housing... I had no donor D60 axle so I bough inner Cs, outer knuckles, spindles, everything. It did not matter what center I put them on...The 4340 inner shafts for a D60 are about 200-225 each and my custom 4340 were $225 ea so the cost is the same. In the end it came down to $300 more to build the 14b front over the D60 front strictly for the Crane Revolution 14 seals (175) and having a shop pull the old tube, machine the tube, press it in, and machine the knuckles and tubes to press together (125). Thanks to Childers machine and Welding here in Albuquerque for doing all the machine work. And of course the 14b gears are suuuuuper easy to set up, only took me about an hour to set them up.
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1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, 14b front kingpins, 14b rear, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 07-01-2020 at 09:56 PM.
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