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  #221  
Old 10-07-2020, 02:13 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
Oh no!
I have the gauge out and in the hand and was scared about open it.

Stop:

I have 5V on A3 from my 5 V CVR

The gauge is between A3 and S3
....
based on this the old gauge cvr has no effect.
what am i doing wrong?
Right, but if there is a ground or some voltage on that pin inside your gauge from your old CVR, then the signal from your sender is either being grounded or thrown off. You have to break that line. I am pretty sure this is your problem...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
...
I ist out of function, have no 12 V from 14 to 15 because my radio supression is out
...
I am pretty sure this is not an issue.
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  #222  
Old 10-08-2020, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Right, but if there is a ground or some voltage on that pin inside your gauge from your old CVR, then the signal from your sender is either being grounded or thrown off. You have to break that line. I am pretty sure this is your problem...


I am pretty sure this is not an issue.




Ok, i will try it soon. . Now i have to brush the wood for my garage
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  #223  
Old 10-11-2020, 08:23 AM
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I have separated the "I" with electrical tape from "A"
(Red tape between the I to A contact)

#1 is before the isolation, #2 is after the isolation.

The A to ground resistence is too low.

What i do to do is to cut of the thin wire? Red marked in the pic.
This goes from "A" to ground..


Edit: I cant wait. The thin wire is cut off. now from A to ground ist ZERO ohms


original status with the cvr in the gauge:
in which case does the contact from I to A open? Overheating the CVR? and than all gauges are out of function??
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Last edited by wincher : 10-11-2020 at 09:36 AM.
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  #224  
Old 10-25-2020, 12:25 PM
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i worked with Chart 6 : temp Gauge not functioning...


A to ground is 26,7 ohms
S to ground is 43,4 ohm
S to A is 20,1 ohm
4 66V at S
5.01 V at A


I put the sending unit out and it has 175 ohm.

approxiamately 100 ohm to much at about 16 degrees celsius.
I can swear i have measured 43,1 ohm at the unit before i put it out


Have changed it two times...

are the crown parts such a scrap?
Is the J3177594 the right part for the gauge
(73 ohms cold to 9 ohms hot)
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  #225  
Old 10-27-2020, 12:45 PM
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Are the front springs from a 89 Wagooner the same as in the 78 Chief?
I think so.
A wagoneer gets Parted and i can Buy it ...
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Last edited by wincher : 10-27-2020 at 01:00 PM.
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  #226  
Old 10-28-2020, 01:01 PM
FleetFox FleetFox is offline
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Wincher, given your location and the scarcity of parts; if you could buy a parts truck, I'm sure you would no trouble selling what you don't need to others in the EU. Given you have space to store it. 89 springs should fit your 78. if the bushings are worn replace them with the springs out. it's a "fun" job.

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  #227  
Old 10-30-2020, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FleetFox
Wincher, given your location and the scarcity of parts; if you could buy a parts truck, I'm sure you would no trouble selling what you don't need to others in the EU. Given you have space to store it. 89 springs should fit your 78. if the bushings are worn replace them with the springs out. it's a "fun" job.

Fleet Fox
Hi Fleet fox
I have Asked to buy the complete Wagooner
7500 Euro. Not a cheap offer.
Many Parts are different to my 78.
Transmission, transfer case, Instrument Cluster...
And ja sheet is ok.
So i give it a miss
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  #228  
Old 10-30-2020, 08:26 AM
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While dimensionally the same and springs will bolt in, but if yours is a WT the '89 springs will be @lower height.
The WT got higher height springs by ~1.5"-2".
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  #229  
Old 10-30-2020, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
While dimensionally the same and springs will bolt in, but if yours is a WT the '89 springs will be @lower height.
The WT got higher height springs by ~1.5"-2".
Thanks
I have Seen a pic of the car
It was a big spacer between spring and front axle. . And SUA!
Makes the war a low Rider...
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  #230  
Old 10-30-2020, 09:54 AM
FleetFox FleetFox is offline
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Thank you for the edit Babywag, important information.

Fleet Fox
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  #231  
Old 10-30-2020, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wincher
i worked with Chart 6 : temp Gauge not functioning...


A to ground is 26,7 ohms
S to ground is 43,4 ohm
S to A is 20,1 ohm
4 66V at S
5.01 V at A


I put the sending unit out and it has 175 ohm.

approxiamately 100 ohm to much at about 16 degrees celsius.
I can swear i have measured 43,1 ohm at the unit before i put it out


Have changed it two times...

are the crown parts such a scrap?
Is the J3177594 the right part for the gauge
(73 ohms cold to 9 ohms hot)
Since you are now running a remote regulator, the service manual and diagrams do not work for your reference voltages and readings anymore.

In your readings you only mention A and S. There are three A terminals and three S terminals. I am 99.9% sure you know this and are testing the correct points but just verify it.

With your dash installed, A3 to ground is measuring 2 paths: one through the gauge, to the sender, to ground AND through your new voltage regulator. You have to either unhook pin 10, or your voltage regulator.

S3 to ground is measuring the line from the gauge through the dash, through the harness, through the sender to ground. It's odd that you got 43.4 ohms there, then 175 ohms from the sender itself. Make sure your engine has a REALLY good ground to the body/battery.

S3 to A3 you are only measuring the gauge itself. I assume that is a good measurement but I am not sure.

4.66V at S3 looks like it should be correct.

To verify you are good (all the old reference voltage wiring is removed from impacting the circuit) with the cluster on your desk (or just completely unhooked): A3 to ground should be open. A2 to ground should be open. S3 to ground should be open. A2 to A3 should be almost no ohms. S3 to pin 10 should be almost no ohms.

I wonder if you have fried the senders with really high voltage because the voltage coming in from the old CVR circuit and the new voltage regulator? I have an extra working temp sender in my stash and you can have it if you buy an IFSJA T-Shirt. I'll throw it in the box.
Shameless plug here

Also, one last check before you put your cluster in, measure from dash cluster wiring pin 10 to ground and make sure it is almost the same as the top of the sender to ground. This will verify all the connections between the dash cluster and the sender are clean.
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  #232  
Old 10-30-2020, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Since you are now running a remote regulator, the service manual and diagrams do not work for your reference voltages and readings anymore.

Quote:
In your readings you only mention A and S. There are three A terminals and three S terminals. I am 99.9% sure you know this and are testing the correct points but just verify it.


100% S3 and A3. I correlate to the pic with the ohm chart from the temp gauge....


With your dash installed, A3 to ground is measuring 2 paths: one through the gauge, to the sender, to ground AND through your new voltage regulator. You have to either unhook pin 10, or your voltage regulator.

Quote:
S3 to ground is measuring the line from the gauge through the dash, through the harness, through the sender to ground. It's odd that you got 43.4 ohms there, then 175 ohms from the sender itself. Make sure your engine has a REALLY good ground to the body/battery.
Have a wire from the engine manifold to the -pol battery

today i measured 250ohms through the sender in my hands. I have complainded the sender i have bought 2 times new!

the sender should have 73 cold up to 9 hot.
it is the crown J3177594


Quote:
S3 to A3 you are only measuring the gauge itself. I assume that is a good measurement but I am not sure.
20,1 ohms. in the chart 19 to 21. seems ok


4.66V at S3 looks like it should be correct.

To verify you are good (all the old reference voltage wiring is removed from impacting the circuit) with the cluster on your desk (or just completely unhooked): A3 to ground should be open. A2 to ground should be open. S3 to ground should be open. A2 to A3 should be almost no ohms. S3 to pin 10 should be almost no ohms.

I wonder if you have fried the senders with really high voltage because the
Quote:
voltage coming in from the old CVR circuit
i have no voltage from the old cvr. no voltage on I because the radio resistance to pin 15 is not installed

and the new voltage regulator? I have an extra working temp sender in my stash and you can have it if you buy an IFSJA T-Shirt. I'll throw it in the box.
Shameless plug here

Also, one last check before you put your cluster in, measure from dash cluster wiring pin 10 to ground and make sure it is almost the same as the top of the sender to ground. This will verify all the connections between the dash cluster and the sender are clean.




will take break here an check what you suggest


from PIN 10 and S3 it is the same: 0,3ohms to the wire connector on top of the sender (wire not connected with the sender)
My wire from S3 to PIN 10 to sender is ok.
Have measered the sender resitance again: it was today 285 ohms. sender on my workbench in the cellar, it was about 15 degrees celsius


I have put it in a coffe mug and did a boiling water in the mug. After a few seconds i put it out and measered again.
Resitance was 40ohms, then growing with temp was falling.

with this resistance , still in the Band of the gauge, the ing needle of the gauge has to move!!
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Last edited by wincher : 11-01-2020 at 08:06 AM.
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  #233  
Old 11-01-2020, 07:57 AM
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wincher wincher is offline
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Stereo RAdio

With my chief comes a radio like this:
model 3238861



I dont know if it works, it was replaced by a newer radio und only packed in a carton.
What i have found out is it is a a early 80s modell,not original for my 78.
is this right?
I will test it. Where can i found a readable description for the wires?
from the side of the radio comes this 6 wires
green-white
white-black
white
black
black-white
green


from the rear
black
blue and red with a united connector
black with a 5 amp flying fuse
white
orange







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Last edited by wincher : 11-01-2020 at 08:14 AM.
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  #234  
Old 11-02-2020, 11:34 AM
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I only have a 79 diagram. Here is what the 79 shows:
Black=ground
Light Green= Front right speaker
Tan= Front Left Speaker
Dark blue= Rear Right Speaker
Brown= Rear left speaker
Orange= Back lighting
The rest of the diagram for the radio is cut off. If you go to Tom Collins website, he probably has a better diagram. I can't get to that website from the computer I am on right now or I would dig it out for you.
http://www.oljeep.com
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  #235  
Old 11-02-2020, 01:37 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
I only have a 79 diagram. Here is what the 79 shows:
Black=ground
Light Green= Front right speaker
Tan= Front Left Speaker
Dark blue= Rear Right Speaker
Brown= Rear left speaker
Orange= Back lighting
The rest of the diagram for the radio is cut off. If you go to Tom Collins website, he probably has a better diagram. I can't get to that website from the computer I am on right now or I would dig it out for you.
http://www.oljeep.com




Oh Marc, dont think I am lazy.
I have checked all years electrical wiring at oljeep before this post as good as i can.

The 84/85 image is blurred.
I found not the same colors.
OK, the one with the flying fuse is dark brown and not black.
But a fuse in a ground wire

Iit comes from the rear and should not be a speaker wire.
And I have no violet for igniton ON

Marc safe your time, you have enough trouble with your engine.
Thank you!







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  #236  
Old 11-10-2020, 04:00 PM
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wincher wincher is offline
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decal

Hi, I have the 75-78 decals and at the side few it is only the doors with the "Cherokee Chief" letters

I need the complete stripe from fender to fender
how to get the missing parts or a similar decal to cut the stripe by myself?
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