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  #1  
Old 11-28-2011, 08:00 AM
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CommanderChaos CommanderChaos is offline
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Upgrading Steering Links

I want to upgrade my steering with more substantial steering links. Can someone point me into the direction of some without changing steering knuckles, etc.

Is there anything off the shelf? If I wanted to make my own with heavier DOM what is the size of the ends that I would need to use?

Thanks!
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, 360/727/229, 6" Rusty's Lift, 35x12.5.15 Goodyear wrangler MT/R w/ kevlar. 4.56 Gears, Yukon Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts, Eaton E-Locker Front and Rear, ARB Differential Covers.
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2011, 09:16 AM
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tell them buckeye performance refered you.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-427...ering-kit.html
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2011, 10:05 AM
Blake Blake is offline
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I made the steering setup on both the J10 and waggy using some 7/8-18 inserts and jam nuts from Spidertrax http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.1284/.f

You will also need some DOM tubing (or similar) that is 1" ID. I used 1" ID and 1.5" OD.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2011, 10:21 AM
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The last jeep I built I used some dom pipe threaded on the inside all righthand threaded and 3/4" heims joints. If you have big tires and beadlocks any performance you loose due to a lack of ajustability wont be noticed since going 70mph down the highway is a thing of the past. I used all right hand thread so that I would be able to carry one joint for trail fix. worked great for years and never needed the extra heims joint.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2011, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake
I made the steering setup on both the J10 and waggy using some 7/8-18 inserts and jam nuts from Spidertrax http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.1284/.f

You will also need some DOM tubing (or similar) that is 1" ID. I used 1" ID and 1.5" OD.

What did you use for the rod ends?
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, 360/727/229, 6" Rusty's Lift, 35x12.5.15 Goodyear wrangler MT/R w/ kevlar. 4.56 Gears, Yukon Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts, Eaton E-Locker Front and Rear, ARB Differential Covers.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2011, 11:22 AM
Blake Blake is offline
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I used ES2010L and ES2010R TRE's which are chevy 1 ton. I don't think they fit stock FSJ axles though. I've seen folks post the part numbers on here for TRE's that have a 7/8-18 threaded part that fit in stock axles, but I don't know what they are.

You could always ream your existing taper to chevy 1 ton.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2011, 11:46 AM
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Wfo concept makes dom tr & dl that are drilled and tapped for 149 you just need to tell them what tre you have and hole to hole measurements
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:47 AM
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hotjimmy hotjimmy is offline
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Another GREAT company! Badass steering parts!
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/STEER.html

Get 10% Discount if you use FIGHTING55 in the coupon code
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2011, 04:24 AM
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You can drill out the knuckles on a D44 to accept the Chevy 1 ton TREs.
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2011, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeping1974
You can drill out the knuckles on a D44 to accept the Chevy 1 ton TREs.

How much of a difference in size is there from the D44 to the Chevy 1 ton's? I don't want to weaken the knuckles too much by drilling it out.
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, 360/727/229, 6" Rusty's Lift, 35x12.5.15 Goodyear wrangler MT/R w/ kevlar. 4.56 Gears, Yukon Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts, Eaton E-Locker Front and Rear, ARB Differential Covers.
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2011, 07:06 AM
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The ream is expensive it is cheaper to send your knuckles out
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2011, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pass45
Wfo concept makes dom tr & dl that are drilled and tapped for 149 you just need to tell them what tre you have and hole to hole measurements

What is the "type" of TRE that comes stock on the D44 for a 1988 Grand Wagoneer>
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, 360/727/229, 6" Rusty's Lift, 35x12.5.15 Goodyear wrangler MT/R w/ kevlar. 4.56 Gears, Yukon Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts, Eaton E-Locker Front and Rear, ARB Differential Covers.
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  #13  
Old 11-29-2011, 09:12 AM
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I bielve you would be going from a ~3/4" to 7/8" reamed hole. There is plently of material on the arm where it shouldn't be weakened. I've seen quite a few people do this.
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  #14  
Old 11-29-2011, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeping1974
I bielve you would be going from a ~3/4" to 7/8" reamed hole. There is plently of material on the arm where it shouldn't be weakened. I've seen quite a few people do this.

So, if I get a 7/8" drill bit, is this something I can manage on the vehicle with a hand drill?

Will I have to drill the pitman arm as well?
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1988 Grand Wagoneer, 360/727/229, 6" Rusty's Lift, 35x12.5.15 Goodyear wrangler MT/R w/ kevlar. 4.56 Gears, Yukon Chrome Moly Front Axle Shafts, Eaton E-Locker Front and Rear, ARB Differential Covers.
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  #15  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommanderChaos
So, if I get a 7/8" drill bit, is this something I can manage on the vehicle with a hand drill?

Will I have to drill the pitman arm as well?

I don't think you wanna drill it. I think you want to REAM it. I've never done that.

It might be easier to just find the part numbers for TRE's that fit into the stock knuckles and pitman arm than trying to ream it.
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  #16  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:30 PM
Blake Blake is offline
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Or just go with 1 ton axles....
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  #17  
Old 11-29-2011, 12:42 PM
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I was thinking the same thing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake
Or just go with 1 ton axles....
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  #18  
Old 11-29-2011, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake
Or just go with 1 ton axles....

I don't think so. Not in the pocket book right now. Maybe I'll just buy a set of stock replacements and carry them on the trail for a spare.
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  #19  
Old 11-29-2011, 08:24 PM
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Suddendeath Suddendeath is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CommanderChaos
I don't think so. Not in the pocket book right now. Maybe I'll just buy a set of stock replacements and carry them on the trail for a spare.

That can add up quick. It wouldn't be too tall of an order for a machine shop to ream out your knuckles and pitman arm for the 1 ton chevy TRE's. It'd be a bunch of work to remove both knuckles and the pitman arm, but it may be worth it if you're seriously worried about stock steering linkage strength.

Second I break my stock stuff, that's the route I'm going. DOM tubing with 1 ton chevy TRE's and full high steer.
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  #20  
Old 11-29-2011, 08:43 PM
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The Pitman arm already has a big hole
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