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  #1  
Old 04-21-2009, 06:42 PM
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olllllo olllllo is offline
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np228 is dying - can I direct swap a np229?

If you want to skip the long story, the question is in the subject. For everyone else....

I have had a really bad vibe for a bit in my 86 wag. I ended up replacing both the front and rear shafts, front yoke on the t-case, and replaced the tranny mount. All of these were pretty jacked, which I assume was caused by the tranny mount itself. After getting it all put back together, I still have some really bad vibes, and a definite *clunk* when shifting between D and R. When you look at the t-case outputs, you can see that there is some abnormal movement going on in there. After having someone much smarter than myself give it a second look, he confirmed my suspicions that my np228 is on its way out.

I had about resolved to doing a np208 swap, although it would definitely be on the high side of my $$$ comfort level, especially since I just spent about 400 bucks in shafts and a yoke, which would be useless in the new setup. On my way home from leaving that shop I hit a second Jeep fab shop to see if they had a spare 208 floating around. There just happened to be a guy in there that had just parted out a FSJ for his YJ project, and had a np229 that he had no use for. He said it has actually be steam cleaned and looks brand new (and I suppose it has no wrinkles either! ). He told me he wants 100 bucks for it, which I am going to jump on.

Given all that, will I need to modify anything at all to put that np229 in or is it truly a direct swap?
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  #2  
Old 04-21-2009, 06:46 PM
andy d andy d is offline
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I'm pretty sure it is a direct swap.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2009, 07:36 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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I agree. Should be a direct swap.

Good price on the t-case, too, IMHO.
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  #4  
Old 04-21-2009, 07:39 PM
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Mark Wilde Mark Wilde is offline
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Exact direct swap. Go for it.
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  #5  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:17 PM
deadironrat deadironrat is offline
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direct swap, although I'm pretty sure that if you use an NP208 you can still use your same shafts. I'm not positive but I think thats what I've read.

P.S. Did you ever get the fuel injection up and running???
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  #6  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:24 PM
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olllllo olllllo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadironrat
P.S. Did you ever get the fuel injection up and running???

Not yet... life keeps getting in the way of my progress! I just picked up an old CJ5 that I am going to use as a second driver. When I get that Jeep stable enough that I can have a week or two of downtime in the wag, I am hoping to give it a go then.
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  #7  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:42 PM
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aatcman aatcman is offline
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Yes, NP-228 and NP-229 are identical -- with one exception. 228 has an open diff in it and 229 has a viscious coupler -- just means you'll have a little less slip in 4wd Hi (both lock in low).

All said, $100 is a great price for a working 229 -- however, it's not that diffacult to repair your 228 either -- it sounds like your front bearing is going out -- either that, or the u joints in the double cardon joint connected to the front output. Personnally, I'd check the u joints first.

As far as clunk reduction goes, if your front output was causing it, then you'd only have clunk in 4WD.
Clunk in our jeeps is almost normal -- worn drive train + harsh chrysler tranny engagement = clunk.
I found out, however, that it can be mostly elminated. AMC (Jeep) came up with a solution that is usually overlooked -- its called a torque arm -- most are just dangling -- hook it up right = clunk gone or very minamal.
This torque arm is a little bolt right next to the tranny mount. It has two round grommets on it and a nut on both end. Tighten the bottom nut as tight as you can without breaking it, then tighten the top one until there is slight pressure on both rubber grommets. That's all there is to it. Doing this will also stop the frequent destruction of the drivers side motor mount (guess how I figured that out )
If yours breaks or is no longer adjustable due to rust or whatever, BJ's sells new ones.

Hope this helps
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Last edited by aatcman : 04-21-2009 at 09:47 PM.
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  #8  
Old 04-21-2009, 09:05 PM
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olllllo olllllo is offline
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That is really good input. I definitely didn't tighten that thing down as hard as you are saying. And... I haven't even looked at my motor mounts! Hmmmmmm. Would a motor mount issue cause a vibe in the driveline as well?

Thanks a lot for all the input everyone.
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  #9  
Old 04-21-2009, 09:44 PM
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aatcman aatcman is offline
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My various broken motor mounts never seemed to cause any vibration -- just extra loud thunks is all.

Every vibration I've ever had in my drive train has been either a u-joint or a wheel out of balance.

Hope this helps
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  #10  
Old 05-12-2009, 07:14 PM
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Greg Taylor Greg Taylor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadironrat
I'm pretty sure that if you use an NP208 you can still use your same shafts.


Nope, The NP208 case is about 4" shorter on the back side than the NP228/NP229 cases, resulting in a longer rear drive shaft.

I have swapped the NP228 into my '89 GW in place of the NP229 ... everything hooks up identically, except for the 4WD indicator (dash) light. The NP229 has a sensor on the top of the case, while the NP228 does not.
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  #11  
Old 05-12-2009, 07:39 PM
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jdaniel83 jdaniel83 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aatcman
Yes, NP-228 and NP-229 are identical -- with one exception. 228 has an open diff in it and 229 has a viscious coupler -- just means you'll have a little less slip in 4wd Hi (both lock in low).


So are you saying that the open differential of the 228 will have less slip or does the viscious coupler of the 229 have less slip. I was just curious and I've always wondered what the difference between the 228 and 229 is.
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2009, 07:48 PM
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Greg Taylor Greg Taylor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdaniel83
So are you saying that the open differential of the 228 will have less slip or does the viscious coupler of the 229 have less slip. I was just curious and I've always wondered what the difference between the 228 and 229 is.

The 229 has less slip ... it's like a limited slip differential.
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  #13  
Old 05-12-2009, 09:51 PM
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olllllo olllllo is offline
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After putting it in, I can testify that it definitely has less slip. In 4 lo doing tight turns on pavement, the 228 still allowed the wheels to turn independently enough that it wouldn't put up any fight. I put in the 229 last week and putting it in 4 lo and turning tight on pavement actually leaves a little rubber on the ground. That was an unintended benefit to me!
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2009, 06:11 AM
GWChris GWChris is offline
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That's strange - in 4lo both cases lock the front and rear driveshafts together.
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2009, 08:47 AM
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Chevelleguy Chevelleguy is offline
 
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That may have been another damaged area of his 228, maybe Lo wasn't locking the center diff.
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10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
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