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05-01-2010, 05:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2010
Location: Onalaska, Washington
Posts: 126
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1975 J10 Rear shackles
Ok im doing a skyjacker 4 inch lift on my 1975 jeep J10 and the rear shackles are not coming off. I have used pickle forks a sledge and a darn crow bar. Is there any way to take the shackles and spring out together with out haveing to cut the whole thing off of the truck? Im pretty sure the bushings have welded to the darn post.
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06-28-2010, 12:07 AM
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2010
Location: Onalaska, Washington
Posts: 126
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Ok well i still havent got the rear springs off my truck but i did get the bed off woot woot lol. Any one got any type of suggestion on getting them off ive already tried every thing sept cutting them off which the pas side will def need done since it wont come off at either end.
The driver side on the other hand came off the post which is nice i just got to either drill out the rear shackle mount and mount it back up with grade 8 bolts or weld the sob in and bolt it up. If anyone have any ideas ill listen im just at a stand still really till i can get them off.
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06-28-2010, 05:39 AM
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350 Buick
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Join Date: Sep 17, 2005
Location: Farmington Hills Mi.
Posts: 1,291
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I made a puller attachment for my hydraulic jack unit (portapower). If you don't have a hydraulic unit you could use some threaded rod, I would recomend a 7/8-14 or 1-14 thread.
Dan
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06-28-2010, 07:07 AM
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,617
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Post mount rear suspensions can be a real bear to remove after 30 some years. Mine were so frozen to the posts I had to remove the spring and shackle as a unit.
I did this with two jaw type pullers, one on each post. It probably took the good portion of a day with the driver side bushings finally seperating from the bushing and the inner portion of the bushings still fused to the post. From there I was able to clean off some rubber, find the seam and beat the heck out of it with an air chisel. It involved lots of PB Blaster and chiseling in both directions (clockwise and counterclockwise, back and forth), eventually it started to slip and seperate.
Hope yours come off a bit easier than that.
__________________
2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
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06-28-2010, 10:56 AM
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Grease Monkey
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Join Date: Jan 04, 2010
Location: Frisco, Tx
Posts: 274
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Spray some lube in there!
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1981 J20
soa/sf
36x12.5x16.5 Goodyear Military oz
no rust!
Status: Top end tore apart
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06-28-2010, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2010
Location: Onalaska, Washington
Posts: 126
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Well i got the front part off of the truck guys but what sucks is i just found out the sky jacker 4" lift kit i bought doesnt fit my truck at all in the rear. So now i have to figure out what will happen if i put my rear springs under the frame or ill have to basicly get a machine shop make the posts smaller.
So now im going to have to either learn how to weld or if any of yall are in the state of washington I'd be willing to compensate the person in food beer and some cash.
Oh and the metal bushing was rusted to the post so bad i had to cut the front part of the rear spring off of the post with a grinder so basicly i cant use the stock springs now lol.
Oh and if i have to mount the rear under the frame what all will i need to complete this project?
Last edited by RussellS : 06-28-2010 at 09:26 PM.
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06-29-2010, 04:52 AM
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350 Buick
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Join Date: Sep 17, 2005
Location: Farmington Hills Mi.
Posts: 1,291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussellS
Well i got the front part off of the truck guys but what sucks is i just found out the sky jacker 4" lift kit i bought doesnt fit my truck at all in the rear. So now i have to figure out what will happen if i put my rear springs under the frame or ill have to basicly get a machine shop make the posts smaller.
So now im going to have to either learn how to weld or if any of yall are in the state of washington I'd be willing to compensate the person in food beer and some cash.
Oh and the metal bushing was rusted to the post so bad i had to cut the front part of the rear spring off of the post with a grinder so basicly i cant use the stock springs now lol.
Oh and if i have to mount the rear under the frame what all will i need to complete this project?
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Why are you considering putting the rear springs under the frame?
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06-29-2010, 05:22 AM
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussellS
Well i got the front part off of the truck guys but what sucks is i just found out the sky jacker 4" lift kit i bought doesnt fit my truck at all in the rear. So now i have to figure out what will happen if i put my rear springs under the frame or ill have to basicly get a machine shop make the posts smaller....
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74-75 are the odd years for rear springs.
Moving the rear springs under the frame is done by folks to match the lift from a front SOA, it's actually a little higher than the 76+ shackle flip, so I'm guessing about 6.5" with stock springs. Use 4" lift springs to do it and you can see where the math is headed.
I also don't think it's wise to have the post made smaller, you would have to take them to 9/16", might not even be able to get them that small and I don't think they will support the rig that way.
If the lift springs match the length of your old springs you should be able to find a spring shop and just have them replace the bushings to match the size of your existing posts.
__________________
2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
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06-29-2010, 09:01 AM
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232 I6
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2007
Location: New Albany, Mississippi
Posts: 179
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Some lift kit companies won't tell you or don't know that the 1974-75 rear springs are different, since the front springs are the same. We and BJ's are the only ones I know that stock rear springs for those years.
As for removal, Tad's solution is about the only one I know that will work without destroying the posts. Use with lots of PB Blaster and lots of patience.
-Tom
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06-29-2010, 09:17 AM
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327 Rambler
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Join Date: Jul 19, 2008
Location: woodland ,washington
Posts: 685
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i had the same issue on the 73 crewcab.i sprayed it with pb blaster then pounded the shackle up and down with a dead blow hammer.untill it was moving freely.
as for the hellcreek suspension lift it did give at least 4'' s of lift 
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82 wagoneer dd
73 j4000 crewcab project
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06-29-2010, 11:27 AM
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2010
Location: Onalaska, Washington
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Well i know if your carefull with a grinder you can get the front part of the rear springs off that way. Now the rear parts will be a diff story lol.
But do yall know how much it will cost to get the bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in? I'm on a really short budget now that i got most of the parts to restore this rig, and make it a offroad/onroad truck.
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06-29-2010, 03:15 PM
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,617
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Do you have a local spring shop?
Prices vary with location and population. Where I live (GMA =500K) I have several to choose from. I do my own bushings for the most part but IIRC I paid about $6-7 per bushing and $40 labor, that's with me taking apart the spring pack, dropping off and picking them up. Probably 10-11 years ago.
__________________
2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
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06-29-2010, 05:47 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2010
Location: Onalaska, Washington
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I dont know if theres one around i never really looked. I guess ill have to get on google and start looking along with useing the yellow pages i guess.
So basicly i have to take the spring pack apart and take the one leaf with the loop to the shop for them to press a new bushing in?
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06-30-2010, 05:19 AM
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,617
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You don't have to take them apart but they are a lot easier to move around that way.
__________________
2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
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06-30-2010, 06:47 AM
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232 I6
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2007
Location: New Albany, Mississippi
Posts: 179
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Tad,
What bushing did you use for the 1 inch post mount on the 1974-75 rear springs? I am curious because I have not found a rubber bushing that will fit a 1 inch post and the 2 inch spring eye found on the 1976 + rear springs. The 1 inch post mount bushing that we use has a 1-3/4 inch outside diameter.
-Tom
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06-30-2010, 07:23 AM
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,617
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Tom,
I have (well, what used to be) a 1970 wagoneer, 7/8" posts.
Now I think on my '72 J2000 I had a 1" post and a 7/8" post in the rear. I saved the posts and the springs when I trashed that project, but I'll have to double check that when I get home from the shop. If I am remembering that correctly I'll try to get a number off of them, I may even have the reciept for the bushings, they came from Az Spring here in Tucson.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HellCreek
Tad,
What bushing did you use for the 1 inch post mount on the 1974-75 rear springs? I am curious because I have not found a rubber bushing that will fit a 1 inch post and the 2 inch spring eye found on the 1976 + rear springs. The 1 inch post mount bushing that we use has a 1-3/4 inch outside diameter.
-Tom
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__________________
2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
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06-30-2010, 11:48 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 25, 2010
Location: Onalaska, Washington
Posts: 126
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Oh i got another question the driver side shackle finaly came off yesterday but the post now moves when i use something that can move it like a big rubber oil filter wrench. Is that normal or will i have to weld the sob back together?
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06-30-2010, 12:35 PM
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232 I6
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2007
Location: New Albany, Mississippi
Posts: 179
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That would make sense, since the 7/8" post mount bushings have a 1-1/2" O.D. Some of the later model rear springs used a RB-145 anchor bushing (the same as a CJ rear anchor bushing), which also has a 1-1/2" O.D. but a 9/16" I.D., so they would be a direct replacement. Most spring manufacturers, like us, don't use the RB-145s on the FSJ rear springs, because the RB-153 bushings (the ones with the 2" O.D.) are softer riding and offer more flex, due to the additional rubber.
-Tom
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tad
Tom,
I have (well, what used to be) a 1970 wagoneer, 7/8" posts.
Now I think on my '72 J2000 I had a 1" post and a 7/8" post in the rear. I saved the posts and the springs when I trashed that project, but I'll have to double check that when I get home from the shop. If I am remembering that correctly I'll try to get a number off of them, I may even have the reciept for the bushings, they came from Az Spring here in Tucson.
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06-30-2010, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 30, 2001
Location: Out West
Posts: 17,617
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Tom,
You are correct (I think we had this conversation a few years back) it's a 1" ID and 1 3/4" OD, not much rubber there at all. I'm sure you remember this, it's the pic of the bushing when I did that. It's a GM main spring I used for the shackle flip.
RussellS,
No the post moving is not normal, it should be very secure. We've found that in the early years for rear post mount JTrucks some were just riveted to the frame, on my 72 J2000 the post extended through the frame and was welded on the back side.
You can see the welds there and I would think your '75 would be welded like that also. Now, why it's moving is of some concern.
A: Is it moving the entire post and bracket?
B: Or is just the post moving and the bracket stays still?
If it's A, I think you could secure it by replacing the rivets with grade 8 bolts and rewelding the back side.
If it's B, I'd want to be real sure of it's integrity, possibly find a replacement. I'm not sure about welding in that area, there's a lot of stress/force happening there even just sitting, much less bouncing around with weight in it.
__________________
2000 Infinity QX4, 3.3L, MPFI, 4 speed auto, 2 speed Nissan tcase, Unibody, IFS front, 4 link rear solid axle with 255-70/16s
IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH
Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...
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Self Inflicted Flesh Wound
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06-30-2010, 03:08 PM
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232 I6
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Join Date: Jun 11, 2007
Location: New Albany, Mississippi
Posts: 179
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"Tom,
You are correct (I think we had this conversation a few years back) it's a 1" ID and 1 3/4" OD, not much rubber there at all. I'm sure you remember this, it's the pic of the bushing when I did that. It's a GM main spring I used for the shackle flip."
Tad,
I do remember some of that.  The eyes of some 3/4 ton rear Chevy springs use a RB-136 bushing, which is the same dimensions as the RB-117s used in the 1/2 Ton Chevy rear springs, except that the RB-136s are 1-3/4" O.D. The only problem using 3/4 Ton Chevy rear springs is that they are 56" long eye-to-eye, and FSJ rear springs, using a 1" post mount, are either 52" or 57".
-Tom
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