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  #21  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:47 PM
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ChevyJoe ChevyJoe is offline
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Buy the cheap balljoints from your auto parts store if you want to take advantage of the lifetime warranty and change them every year (you will need to since you mostly drive on two track roads). If not spend the extra dough and get a good set of balljoints like these bad boys: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...s-p-26182.html

I would ditch the locker and go with a detroit tru-trac in the rear. doesnt wear out the tires and you don't even know its there! A buddy has them front and rear in his wag and he goes the same places as i do with full detroit lockers front and rear.

like you do, I try to go as far as I can in 2wd then put it in 4wd until I get back onto the pavement. getting in and out to switch your lockouts gets old fast
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  #22  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
the service grade are usually pretty cheap.

these are a spicer part number. i need a set for my J20,and i was gonna call these guys and see if they are indeed Spicers. lemme know if you call them. the price is decent,per side. (2 kits needed.)

http://extremecustomparts.com/i-4940...-scout-ih.html

that is a great price, samr part number from 4 wheel parts is like 75 bucks.
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The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #23  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:11 PM
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It's looking like the ones in that link are NOT actual spicer parts. look up on ebay other kits that are. and look on 4wp's site.

The spicer joints are not greasable, the housing is silver on all the spicer joints i can find, and also the end of the threaded part appears different too.
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Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

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The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #24  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:37 PM
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http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/default.aspx

this website has great reviews online, great reviews on ebay, and they seem to have dang near every spicer part ever.

They have allll the catalogs on the website, so I'm going to dig through there tonight and see what I cant find.
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Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

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The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #25  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:09 PM
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painted two rims tonight, these are going to look NIIIIICE with the dig dishes.







speaking of dog dishes...i have a plethora...

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Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #26  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:09 PM
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last weekend:

Out with the old



next to the slightly less old:



Seems Legit.....


But as of right now:

My brake lines are a total mess (need replaced) and I have no shocks, and the e-brake lines on this axle are cut do i need to address that when I do new shoes and drums and hardware.


My exhaust is held in place off to the side with a wire hanger


My front drive shaft is unbolted and held in place with a wire hanger and duct tape (and no i still dont have an inspection cover on my torque converter)


But, it seems to ride and drive fine. Had it up to about 50 in the neighborhood, havent dared to take it on the highway with those rotted 31's and no shocks. But, no weird vibes or anything, so, hopefully upwards of 60 MPH it drives the same.

Phew, i'm beat.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #27  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:10 PM
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Okay, here's how everything looks under the truck.

So, i had to move my muffler over slightly, it was just barely touching the drive shaft before.


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Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #28  
Old 03-14-2013, 08:58 PM
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Som ounted up my good tires, then took the jeep for a spin.

Got her up to about 65 with no noticable vibes in the driveline. It actually seemed SMOOTHER when i let off the throttle than before.

So, hopefully i'm not missing something here, and it's all actually working!


Oh pics:
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Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #29  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:43 PM
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Okay,

Axle bearings.

Specifically front inner, and the rear ones.

What is the likelihood that I will need to replace these? From what I see, i need to be able to pry or pull out the race some how, and then press it in?

Is this as simple as a 3 jaw puller or slide hammer and a hammer/block of wood?

I'm not really familiar with how to do these, and for the rear bearings my Haynes manual straight up says "take it to a dealer it needs to be pressed in"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #30  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus
Okay,

Axle bearings.

Specifically front inner, and the rear ones.

What is the likelihood that I will need to replace these? From what I see, i need to be able to pry or pull out the race some how, and then press it in?

Is this as simple as a 3 jaw puller or slide hammer and a hammer/block of wood?

I'm not really familiar with how to do these, and for the rear bearings my Haynes manual straight up says "take it to a dealer it needs to be pressed in"
For the front it's pretty easy with a hammer and punch, or drift. For the rear I would say a puller is your best bet. I used my pry bar and sorta used it as a slide hammer.
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  #31  
Old 03-20-2013, 12:54 PM
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is this more or less the process?

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d44/d44-3.htm

Again, how likely is it that I'll need to even replace the bearings on the front and rear axle shafts? Or is it worth it simply since i have the front axle out of the truck right now anyway?

Is there an 'inner' bearing on the front, or is the axle shaft supported only by the spindle bearings? I'm not super familiar with this.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44

Last edited by Dr. Marneaus : 03-20-2013 at 01:05 PM.
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  #32  
Old 03-20-2013, 02:10 PM
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on the front you have 2 wheel bearings and a spindle bearing. on the rear you have axle bearings right behind the brakes.
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  #33  
Old 03-20-2013, 02:16 PM
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I wouldn't replace the front bearings unless you find they are bad. I would replace the spindle bearings and axle shaft u-joints up front, I hate going back in after those.
I would replace the rear wheel bearings for piece of mind, I quit doing my own and just pull the axle shafts and take them in these days.
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2013, 03:11 PM
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so....

Inspect: Front hub bearings

Replace: Spindle Bearings/Rear Bearings

a check by hand shows everything is smooth and tight up front (no real wobbles or anything), but like you said I would rather do the stuff that's more convenient at this time rather than when the axles are under the truck.

I had planned on u-joints for sure, and ball joints for sure. I'll do the spindle bearings and I guess the bearings in the hub would be easy enough if they go bad down the road.

On the spindle bearing, is there some trick to getting it out? Seems like it's nice and deep in there.
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Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #35  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:06 PM
aktrapper aktrapper is offline
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Everything...

I am replacing all the seals and bearings in the axle at the same time I do u-joints and ball joints - I figure the cost wasn't too bad for the parts and I'm in there anyway. I have a tough time getting the time to do these jobs so a few extra bucks replacing parts that aren't totally shot is worth it for me...
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  #36  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aktrapper
I am replacing all the seals and bearings in the axle at the same time I do u-joints and ball joints - I figure the cost wasn't too bad for the parts and I'm in there anyway. I have a tough time getting the time to do these jobs so a few extra bucks replacing parts that aren't totally shot is worth it for me...

You are absolutely right and your logic is sound.

However, I've never seen the front wheel bearings wear out. I've seen them destroyed by lack of service, but that goes down quick and once started is unreversable, but if the front wheel bearings are good, they're good. New grease every year and new seal when they start to bleed, they'll last forever.
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  #37  
Old 03-20-2013, 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys.

Ordered 2 sets of spiced ball joints and that actually depleted the little pile of money I had for jeep parts this month (can you believe I sold a gun for this?) so we will see if I can scrounge some more up without altering my budget too much (I believe I will be able to finally pay off my credit card debt this month if I'm not foolish with spending on jeep parts!!)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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  #38  
Old 03-21-2013, 05:10 AM
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Quote:
On the spindle bearing, is there some trick to getting it out?
I know there is a tool for it but I have always used a section of 1/2 square tube and just knocked them out, flange of spindle clamped in vise.
I install them with a large C-clamp but I have some really big clamps.
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IFSJA WMS PROJECT
EARLY WAG LIFT SEARCH

Quote:
...Pay no attention to these heathen barbarians with their cutting torches and 8" lift kits!...

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  #39  
Old 03-21-2013, 06:48 AM
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fulsizjeep fulsizjeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus
Thanks for the advice guys.

Ordered 2 sets of spiced ball joints and that actually depleted the little pile of money I had for jeep parts this month (can you believe I sold a gun for this?) so we will see if I can scrounge some more up without altering my budget too much (I believe I will be able to finally pay off my credit card debt this month if I'm not foolish with spending on jeep parts!!)
Spiced Ball Joints? Who'da thunk?

Man, you have been sucked into the delusion that you can own a FSJ and also pay down your credit at the same time.

The last time I installed spindle bearings I found a piece of pipe that fit the application. May have been a jack handle.
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  #40  
Old 03-21-2013, 10:17 AM
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Dr. Marneaus Dr. Marneaus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulsizjeep
Spiced Ball Joints? Who'da thunk?

Man, you have been sucked into the delusion that you can own a FSJ and also pay down your credit at the same time.

The last time I installed spindle bearings I found a piece of pipe that fit the application. May have been a jack handle.


mmmmmmmm spiced ball joints *drool* haha, sorry, Spicer.

Nah nah nah, I've been doing awesome! I've paid off several thousand in debt since right before christmas, and as soon as April 1st rolls around, i'll have killed my credit card debt FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE!!! Woo! I'm actually pretty proud of that. Ugh, then there's 19,000 worth of school loans left too....thats okay, it'll take like a year.


Anyway, yah, I've read of people using a pipe to set them in place.
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Originally Posted by FSJunkie
Dr. Marneaus is now officially my idol.

The Mag - The Wag

The Beast Build Thread:Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread
1973 Wagoneer - 1987 360 w/ factory 4bbl - TH400 - D20 - D30/D44
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