International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > General FSJ Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-10-2004, 01:42 AM
J10Mike's Avatar
J10Mike J10Mike is offline
Delightfully Incompetent
 
Join Date: Jun 04, 2003
Location: St. Louis, Mo. 63052
Posts: 5,812
Post

to start off, my horn worked somewhat depending on where the steering wheel was turned. it started getting worse and now only the relay clicks. i replaced the relay and still no horn, i did all the testing per tsm and found that the actual horn and relay work fine. it's the switch inside the steering column.
question is: are those switches still available new?
if not, i'm going to get an aftermarket horn button switch instead of tearing up my steering column. any opinions?
__________________
www.j10mike.com
Former - 1982 J10 Sportside, 360, TFI, 727/208, J20 axles, D44HD/Detroit TruTrac, D60/Detroit Locker, D60 disk brake conversion, 4.10s, 5 inch Superlift, 35x12.5x16.5 BFGs on AR767 Wheels. Procomp Super Seats. MileMarker 9000 on Cliffhanger front bumper. Dozer II rear bumper. Rhino Grill conversion. NP208 floor shifter conversion.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-10-2004, 04:21 AM
Fornesto Fornesto is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Jan 01, 2004
Location: Monterey, CA 93940
Posts: 920
Post

I didn't replace my horn switch, but basically rebuilt it. My entire assembly had been lost/removed. If your relay is clicking, your horn assembly in the wheel is working, no need to touch it. You should check the wires leading to your actual horns under the hood. If you do need to rebuilt your horn assembly, you will need a spring and a brass screw from the hardware store. If you have any questions, holluh!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-10-2004, 04:28 AM
J4GRAND's Avatar
J4GRAND J4GRAND is offline
J4000 Restoration Specialist
 
Join Date: Apr 09, 2000
Location: Valparaiso, IN, USA
Posts: 5,931
Post

Missed this post earlier. Make sure that your relay and horn itself are grounded to the inner fender. Had the same problem on my J4000- push horn pad and hear relay click- and it turned out to be rust under the horn mount itself. Wired brushed and she now lets out a healthy "JEEP-JEEP".

BTW, was '73 the last year for the older/military-sounding horn? I love the JEEP-JEEP sound.
__________________
Patrick V.
MEMBER #14
73 J4000 "The $LUT" 360 V8 bored .040 over Edelbrock 2131 1407 4V carb K8600 cam Dual Flowmaster 40 mufflers TH400 QT 3.73 Dana 44s
78 Cherokee Chief WT "Old Blue" 360 V8 4V TH400 QT
05 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.7 V6 5 speed automatic with new QT
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-10-2004, 04:38 AM
J10Mike's Avatar
J10Mike J10Mike is offline
Delightfully Incompetent
 
Join Date: Jun 04, 2003
Location: St. Louis, Mo. 63052
Posts: 5,812
Post

let me rephrase this....the relay is no longer clicking when using the horn button. after using volt meter and jumper wires per tsm for testing purposes, i concluded that the horn does work very well and the relay is doing it's job.
fornesto, just rebuild the horn switch? meaning: pull the steering wheel? i did notice is that there isn't any spring left in the horn button either.
__________________
www.j10mike.com
Former - 1982 J10 Sportside, 360, TFI, 727/208, J20 axles, D44HD/Detroit TruTrac, D60/Detroit Locker, D60 disk brake conversion, 4.10s, 5 inch Superlift, 35x12.5x16.5 BFGs on AR767 Wheels. Procomp Super Seats. MileMarker 9000 on Cliffhanger front bumper. Dozer II rear bumper. Rhino Grill conversion. NP208 floor shifter conversion.

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-10-2004, 02:47 PM
J10Mike's Avatar
J10Mike J10Mike is offline
Delightfully Incompetent
 
Join Date: Jun 04, 2003
Location: St. Louis, Mo. 63052
Posts: 5,812
Post

any other opinions?
__________________
www.j10mike.com
Former - 1982 J10 Sportside, 360, TFI, 727/208, J20 axles, D44HD/Detroit TruTrac, D60/Detroit Locker, D60 disk brake conversion, 4.10s, 5 inch Superlift, 35x12.5x16.5 BFGs on AR767 Wheels. Procomp Super Seats. MileMarker 9000 on Cliffhanger front bumper. Dozer II rear bumper. Rhino Grill conversion. NP208 floor shifter conversion.

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-10-2004, 02:52 PM
Chevelleguy's Avatar
Chevelleguy Chevelleguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2003
Location: Hughes Springs, TX
Posts: 5,565
Post

Mount one of those cheesy white plastic horn buttons to your dash.
__________________
David "If all else fails, read the instructions."
83 Wag Lt,BJ's 6"lift,360/727/Pinned229,D44/trac-lok,AMC20/lock-right,35/12.50 Baja MTZ,Pro-Jection EFI.
10$ NP229 fix http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2520
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-10-2004, 03:02 PM
Twinhuey Twinhuey is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 17, 2003
Location: California
Posts: 36
Post

Quote:
Originally posted by chevelleguy:
Mount one of those cheesy white plastic horn buttons to your dash.
Does not have to be white!! Mine is red!!LOL!!
__________________
1976 Cherokee WT, stock except for the slightly larger tires. This is my first jeep so I am currently enrolled in the Learn to fix it as it breaks program!!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-10-2004, 03:16 PM
2MUD-IN 2MUD-IN is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Jan 31, 2004
Location: St. Louis area
Posts: 755
Post

Get one of those 99-different tune horns with PA speaker. Then you can yell at all the crazy drivers on I-270 around Manchester road.
__________________
Thanks,
2MUD-IN.
____________________________________
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-10-2004, 03:37 PM
J10Mike's Avatar
J10Mike J10Mike is offline
Delightfully Incompetent
 
Join Date: Jun 04, 2003
Location: St. Louis, Mo. 63052
Posts: 5,812
Post

hey 2mud,
i'm one of those crazy drivers on 270. round trip from imperial to earth city. where are you?
__________________
www.j10mike.com
Former - 1982 J10 Sportside, 360, TFI, 727/208, J20 axles, D44HD/Detroit TruTrac, D60/Detroit Locker, D60 disk brake conversion, 4.10s, 5 inch Superlift, 35x12.5x16.5 BFGs on AR767 Wheels. Procomp Super Seats. MileMarker 9000 on Cliffhanger front bumper. Dozer II rear bumper. Rhino Grill conversion. NP208 floor shifter conversion.

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 02-11-2004, 03:25 AM
Fornesto Fornesto is offline
Master Mechanic
 
Join Date: Jan 01, 2004
Location: Monterey, CA 93940
Posts: 920
Post

I "rebuilt" my horn for about $1.50 at OSH -hardware store. You will have to pull the steering wheel, but its not that bad. Just by the plate replacement tool first at Kragen, NAPA (~$10). Otherwise, you will never get the wheel back on. I used a 1 1/2" X 1/4" spring (OSH)and figured I could cut it down. The spring sits in the little sleeve. Second, buy a brass screw at OSH. The screw has to fit inside the spring. Use brass because it conducts well. You will have to cut the screw down slowly so that it fits. The spring provides tention against the brass ring while the wheel turns. It doesn't push the horn pad back like other vehicles. There is a descrete plastic foamy pad that does this. When you push the horn, the brass ring contacts the brass screw and completes the circuit. Experiment with a couple screws and springs and you should be going in no time. Study how it should work and figure it out first.

Good Luck!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner