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  #21  
Old 09-26-2018, 08:59 PM
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iapexl8r iapexl8r is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 06, 2018
Location: Nort Idaho
Posts: 50
Loving the story! The bike is pretty killer.
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1976 Cherokee chief
1970 AMC rebel THE MACHINE
1969 AMX
1965 mustang fastback
1972 international travelette
Yes I have a problem that’s why Iam here
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2018, 08:21 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Your garage looks awesome! Are you a Navy veteran? The colors look like Haze Grey and deck grey. Your bike is legit!!! I love the tires and bare metal tank! Your work sound like a typical job on these: Pull it up to find/fix the oil leak, end up replacing the clutch, fixing exhaust leaks and rebuilding an axle. Oh, then the oil leak comes back.


Not a vet sir, just liked the color combo.
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2019, 11:18 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
I REALLY need to work on providing more regular updates. A lot has happened since the last one. So picking up right where we left off:

Got the transmission and transfer case pulled off. Found out what that awful noise was when pushing in the clutch. Looks like the input shaft sleeve was rubbing on something creating a lip, one that prevented the throw out bearing from coming off. I ended up having to grind it down to change it out.


Video here -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRegMnNrA8vBnL2z9

Clutch and pressure plate out. The heat markings are mesmerizing.


Pilot bushing is completely effed.

New parts in. Went with the cheapest set at Autozone, about $100, and bought a new flywheel from Amazon. All in, about $250 in parts. I cheaped out since I will be converting this to an automatic, I only needed it to last about 4 months.


After that, she ran great.
THEN, she starts running a little hot

Last edited by nstevic01 : 03-20-2019 at 05:48 AM.
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2019, 11:19 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
…at least according to the gauge. Before this the gauge didn’t work, but I narrowed it down to a wiring issue and got it up and running. The needle tended to live right in this area, occasionally creeping into the red. Either the sender is bad, the ground is bad, or the gauge is bad.


I testing the resistance at the sending unit and everything seemed to be ok. It did hesitate a bit when the gauge read hot, but everything was within spec. I had read somewhere if the timing was off, it could cause the same symptoms. So I got out the trusty timing light and got to work….until that is, Jo gets hungry and decides to eat my timing light…


So reluctantly I bought another one and was a little more cautious with the routing of the wires. Timing was off by a couple of degrees. Once that was done, I got my newly acquired muscle grill installed! Took me the better part of a year and parts from 3 grills to get the mustache, chrome muscle combo I needed.



Next up was tackling the install of the correct mirrors. I had bought these about a year ago and have been waiting for the right time to install them. One of my friends had picked up a rivnut tool awhile back and I was fascinated by it. So I ordered one of my own off of Amazon thinking it would be perfect to install the mirrors with. $60 later and it was at my door.


Took off the old mirrors, masked off my holes, drilled them out, and installed the nuts with some silicone. Came out pretty good.



Things were good for a while, then about 2 weeks ago, disaster struck. I was driving home from work and it just dies while driving. I had to push it into a gas station. I was getting no spark at all. So I had to call my tow service through Hagerty and about an hour later, I was on my way home.


I dug into it the next day after work. Not knowing exactly where I was going to start, I figured the ignition module would be the best place to begin. Organized rats nest was the best description of this setup. While acceptable, the previous owner had installed the MSD 6A piggybacked off the stock ignition module’s tach output. It works, but if the stock unit fails, the whole thing fails.



Ewe…


So I took a look at the distributor while I was in there. Something tells me this reluctor is not supposed to be digging in to the pickup…




Got all of the ignition parts replaced, new reluctor, cap, rotor, pickup, and plugs. I was finally able to get it to fire up, but the starting was very laborious. Eventually my solenoid started glowing red hot and started sparking. I think its time to replace all of the battery, starter, and solenoid wires.


Fired right up….then it died. Ugh… the brand new reluctor split in half. Most likely due to a poor casting.


Once I got that squared away I started work on the roll bar. There needed to be a tab welded on for the cb antenna. I just happened to have something that would work perfectly in my scrap box.



Added a few coats of paint.



Got the bar mounted up and installed the 6x9 and 4x6 lights.



So that’s it for now!

Last edited by nstevic01 : 03-20-2019 at 05:48 AM.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2019, 02:26 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,388
How about resizing your pichers? Really hard to see what you're up to.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2019, 02:39 PM
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jeepman1 jeepman1 is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 22, 2015
Location: Cortez fl
Posts: 432
Update...

Its that time! Also noticed the Pasco plate, you're not that far from Manatee co. and I need some help and advise!
Looking good though.
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'83 Honcho j10
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  #27  
Old 03-20-2019, 05:44 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
How about resizing your pichers? Really hard to see what you're up to.


I'm not seeing a way to resize them. I posted them on a couple of other forums and they are normal size. Not sure what's happening.
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  #28  
Old 03-20-2019, 05:45 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepman1
Its that time! Also noticed the Pasco plate, you're not that far from Manatee co. and I need some help and advise!
Looking good though.


What did you need help with?
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  #29  
Old 03-20-2019, 06:11 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
So I found a way to resize the images, however, now its not letting me fix my earlier posts. It ended up erasing most of one of them. Ugh..
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  #30  
Old 03-20-2019, 08:08 AM
SOLSAKS's Avatar
SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 972
nice j-10

IT HAS A GREAT STANCE

you have done some nice work

enjoyed your photos and posts.

keep us informed on next steps

dve in NC
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SOLSAKS - dave
1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #31  
Old 03-20-2019, 12:12 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 3,143
Quote:
Originally Posted by nstevic01
I'm not seeing a way to resize them. I posted them on a couple of other forums and they are normal size. Not sure what's happening.
What I do after I take my pictures, I save them to my desktop, open them in paint and resize, re-save them, then upload them. I use an Iphone SE and re-size them to 20% of original and that comes out pretty well.

The only way I know to fix the old pics is to repost them. So once you have them uploaded into whatever service you use (google, photobucket, flickr, whatever) get you link, go edit your post, and put the new link in where the old link was. There may be easier ways but that is the only way I know how.
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79 Cherokee Chief
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
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  #32  
Old 03-20-2019, 04:27 PM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
What I do after I take my pictures, I save them to my desktop, open them in paint and resize, re-save them, then upload them. I use an Iphone SE and re-size them to 20% of original and that comes out pretty well.

The only way I know to fix the old pics is to repost them. So once you have them uploaded into whatever service you use (google, photobucket, flickr, whatever) get you link, go edit your post, and put the new link in where the old link was. There may be easier ways but that is the only way I know how.


The issue Im running in to now is editing the old post doesn't retain most of the info. It's like its hitting some sort of limit without telling me. I have backups of all my posts with the links, but when I paste it in, it only saves about a paragraph and thats it. I reached out to the site admin to see whats going on.
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  #33  
Old 03-21-2019, 04:08 AM
bkilby's Avatar
bkilby bkilby is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jan 10, 2016
Location: Burbank Ca.
Posts: 864
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
What I do after I take my pictures, I save them to my desktop, open them in paint and resize, re-save them, then upload them. I use an Iphone SE and re-size them to 20% of original and that comes out pretty well.




Rang, download this free app. You can save the pics to your desktop in different sizes without having to resize them. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/wifi...380326191?mt=8
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1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!
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  #34  
Old 03-22-2019, 06:38 AM
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rockosocko rockosocko is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Jun 20, 2014
Location: NW, MS 'Yall
Posts: 213
You "Only need it to last 4 months"?
Is that the trans or what?
Are you going to an auto? I might be interested in the flywheel/clutch assy
I'll PM you.
Thanks
Errol
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  #35  
Old 03-22-2019, 09:16 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockosocko
You "Only need it to last 4 months"?
Is that the trans or what?
Are you going to an auto? I might be interested in the flywheel/clutch assy
I'll PM you.
Thanks
Errol

4 months is what I needed to get out of the clutch setup before switching to the auto trans. Ill look for the PM.
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  #36  
Old 03-27-2019, 12:51 PM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Does anyone know an admin that can reach out to me? I submitted request through the contact us link, but have heard nothing yet. I need to figure out what is breaking my posts on the first page.
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  #37  
Old 04-11-2019, 11:58 AM
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63J200atLSU 63J200atLSU is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Jan 15, 2016
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 539
Cool build man! Definitely following this one.
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'63 J200 Resto-mod in progress
(http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=178651)

If all goes well, we can toast to accidental successes.

I'm convinced I'm just too dumb to know that I can't restore this old truck...
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  #38  
Old 06-02-2019, 12:54 PM
Cowboiler Cowboiler is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 25, 2019
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1
Twister truck

I took a photo with a truck on Memorial Day that says it is the #2 of four different trucks used in the movie. Apparently this one is from Guthrie where some of the movie was shot.

https://instagram.com/p/Bx5JwArJ8f4/
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  #39  
Old 01-24-2020, 08:16 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
Mega-Post time. 10 months worth of updates!!

March 2019
So…A LOT has happened since I last posted. Life got in the way a few times, but for the most part the truck is making some significant progress.
Starting just after getting the lightbar repainted, she went to her first car show. My son’s school hosts an annual car show to help raise money for the school. I ended up not placing in any of the categories, despite being one of the coolest vehicles there. I’m not biased or anything…


Right after that, I finally got the alert I was waiting for on eBay. The Panasonic e330 with the correct faceplate, in working condition no less, popped up for sale. I immediately purchased it, and a few days later I now have the last of the screen accurate interior electronics.


Some time passed and I eventually got tired of running the carburetor. It was giving me nothing but issues during the colder mornings and no matter what I did, always seems to suffer from vapor lock. I tried spacers, clothes pins, wrapping the lines, etc… nothing seemed to work. So I pulled the trigger on the Sniper EFI. Had it installed in the better part of the afternoon. Since it was put in, it has run like a dream. The only issue I had after the install was with the in line fuel pump. That is something I will not be keeping.


April 2019
Fast forward a bit, work begins on the body. My buddy came over and started on the tailgate, which at the time seemed like the biggest issue. More to come on that statement later in the post.


A couple of months go by, and a fuel pump later, something seemed off with Jo. I was playing with the timing one day to dial her in for the summer heat and out of nowhere it just died. I set the timing back, wouldn’t fire. I set the timing 180 degrees off, fires right up but dies with throttle. I disconnect the vacuum advance, plug the hole, fire it up again. It now runs and revs. Very odd. I reconnect the vac advance, give it throttle and it dies immediately. I basically come to the conclusion that the timing chain jumped a few teeth. I leave the vac advance disconnected and just decide to send it until it dies.
In the mean-time, I started looking at options for drivetrain replacement. I figured I would need to rebuild at some point anyway, so why not just do it all while Im in there. I toyed with an LS swap, a Cummins swap, a 401 swap, full electric, etc… Eventually I settled on just rebuilding the existing 360. Sure it will cost more, but in the long run I loved how the 360 sounded, and I wanted to keep her mostly original. The came the choice I needed to make on the transmission. My inner elitist said accuracy was key and I needed to swap to an automatic transmission to be screen accurate. I like the manual, but it gets in the way of all the dash mounted components and would not work out in the long run. Anyway, after MANY posts on the FSJ Facebook page, a generous member ended up bringing me a complete 360/727 auto drivetrain. It came with EVERYTHING. Wiring harness, cruise control, all of the trans linkages, a new radiator, it was amazing.


I figured this was a fantastic score. I had everything I needed to begin the process of rebuilding the drivetrain while still being able to drive the truck. I almost immediately began tearing everything down.




I made some calls to machine shops within a 50 mile radius trying to get quotes on getting work done to the block and crank. The block was in ok condition, but there was oil sludge in the pan and valve covers. It needed to be rebuilt. By the time I got the machine work done, and did a full rebuild, the motor alone was going to run me over $6k. I started looking at remanufactured motors just to price it out. BJs Offroad offers remanufactured short blocks through S&J at a slight discount. With a more aggressive cam, the oiling mod done, and paint, it came out to be around $2980 to my doorstep after the core was refunded. The price for the short block work was comparable, but the key was that it came with a warranty. The internal struggle was real, the motor sat in my cart at BJ’s for a good while before I finally pulled the trigger. And pull the trigger I did…I spent a good portion of my budget getting a bunch of other goodies from them as well. More on that later.
Up until this point I had to commute for work. Around March of last year, I finally got to start working from home full time. This meant that I could start to get some serious work done without having to worry about being able to drive to work the next day. If I didn’t finish something over the weekend, it could just sit.
In my down time, I figured I would work on a way of reproducing the A/C vents. Since there is really not a supplier that sells these, you basically have to wait until you find used ones in decent shape. I had one perfect one, and 3 broken ones. Between the 4, I had everything I needed to flex my modeling skills to get these made up and printed.
This is what one looks like in good shape.


I started by modeling the linkage that connects all the blades together, simple enough, and a straightforward design. I think I only had one version of this, since the first one printed so well.


Next up were the vent blades themselves. These were a little bit of a pain to model, since I really did not have any experience doing this before. I went through a few versions before finally ending up with this.


The inner vent body wasn’t as bad. Ended up doing at least 4 different models before I got it right.


Lastly, there was the outer body of the vent. I hated this one with a passion… but persistence paid off after only 3 redesigns.


This is the final product of about a week of modeling and printing.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wRiRFwCaxLcQLx7j9

Ill have to figure out how to print in ABS since the PLA will most likely not hold up to Florida summers.

May 2019
Another fuel pump bites the dust. These inline pumps that come with the Sniper master kits are huge piles of junk.


The first one developed this obnoxiously loud whining noise when running, so loud that you could hear it over the sound of the engine running, and even while driving.
Take a listen here -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/U1ank2JewoawstVz7
I was able to get that one replaced under warranty fairly quick, but soon after the replacement was installed, same thing. It still works, but Ill need to replace it soon. I had kept hearing good things about surge tanks, specifically the RobMC ones that the Jeep guys seem to like so much. So after some research, I ended up placing the order. Couple weeks later, this guy arrives.



Basically the way it works is that you can keep the existing mechanical fuel pump mounted on the block to feed the surge tank. I’ll also re-install the old low pressure in-line electrical pump as a backup. Once the tank is full, the high pressure fuel pump inside of it will feed the fuel injection at the correct pressure. All you have to do is find a place in the engine bay to mount it. Ill have to install this at a later date.

July 2019
Since my A/C didn’t work, and the heater is fairly useless in Florida, I deciding to rip out all of the factory stuff to make room under the hood. Didn’t really take any pictures of this process.
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  #40  
Old 01-24-2020, 08:18 AM
nstevic01 nstevic01 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: May 11, 2017
Location: Lutz
Posts: 26
November 2019
I FINALLY FOUND A PAINT/BODY GUY!! For the better part of a year I have been trying to find someone that will work with me on doing body work and painting Jo. In the very beginning I had looked at a local MAACO shop that was highly reviewed. I know what you are thinking, cheap paint jobs. BUT, after reading all the reviews and talking with the guy, he does not do cheap. After looking everything over, he quote me $6k if I brought him the bare body ready to be worked on. At the time that was over half my budget and I kept searching. During that car show I had taken Jo to, one of the classic car paint guys had come over and given me his card. I had filed it away and didn’t think twice about it. One day, when I had some time, I ran down there. Guy has a shop in his back yard and all he does is classic vehicles. After he looked it over, he gave me a quote of $10k, if I did all the prep work… At this point I was seriously entertaining just doing the whole damn thing myself. Fast forward to now, I had made acquaintances with a guy that owns a Jurassic Park Jeep replica locally and we got to talking about his paint. He found a local guy that also paints stuff in his back yard as a side business. Catch is, he only does movie cars and vehicles he finds interesting. This is the JP Jeep in question.


I went out to see it in person and the paint is flawless. He said the process was hassle free and he just paid as he went. At that point, I made an appointment to go meet the painter. Turns out, he has a J2000 in the backyard, pretty much the same truck. We went over everything and he agreed to do the entire truck, bodywork and all for $5k. It was a hell of a deal.

Not too much longer after that, Jo’s electrical system had had enough. Wires were constantly melting, fuses blowing, battery not charging, lights not working…. It was time. I pulled her in the driveway and shut her off for the last time.


I began the tear down that weekend. I managed to get all of the bolt ons and the bulk of the interior out in practically no time at all.






A couple of weekends later, my buddy Lee came over and we got the front clip and bed off. I managed to capture a time lapse video on this one.
Front clip and bed removal -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCZGFdLdPug&t=1s

By the end of Saturday, we were left with this. Just looking at it…I think it would be kinda cool to drive it around like this.



The next day he came back over and we got the drivetrain out.
Drivetrain removal -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9NRGiAEF6NE

Garage is getting really full.
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