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  #21  
Old 06-19-2016, 02:10 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Gah! I didnt realize how cheap hx35's or hx40's are... now I want to turbo my 6.5... would just need a J code intake and those are $250-$300 in good shape I can get the turbo cheaper than the blasted intake manifold...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #22  
Old 06-20-2016, 02:48 PM
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DieselSJ DieselSJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BA_051
Gah! I didnt realize how cheap hx35's or hx40's are... now I want to turbo my 6.5... would just need a J code intake and those are $250-$300 in good shape I can get the turbo cheaper than the blasted intake manifold...
''

Expletive Deleted!Expletive Deleted!Expletive Deleted!? Intakes are cheap. $75 on ebay. Any 6.2 or 6.5 intake will work. Avoid the Hummer intakes (they are $125 and up) because the bolt patter on top isn't the same as the truck version.

HX35. The 40 is way too big unless you are doing some serious mods to your pump. Even the 35 is overkill if you have a stock compression block. 20:1 doesn't like a ton of boost - 12 psi max. You can do that all day with a GM8 and mechanical wastegate control. Higher boost and you will push the head gaskets out.
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-87 Grand, 6.5L diesel, MHI TE06H turbo, Water/air intercooler, Art Carr 700R4, CS-130, hydroboost. 21/24mpg, dead 229 [Custom 242 on the way]
-99 XJ Limited.
-Jeepspeed 1717 -Built 4.0, FAST EFI, Rubicon Express, Bilstein, Rigid Industries, 4 Wheel Parts, G2 Axle, Currie Enterprises
-Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
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  #23  
Old 06-20-2016, 05:52 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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I have the military intake on it... The bolts are perpendicular to the heads so I can't use the rear mounted turbo. I have to use the side mount. I was looking for the j code turbo intakes and there were none below $200 (that weren't missing bolt ears and what not)... I will look again when I have some cash laying around...

I am only wanting 10-12, maybe 15 psi of boost so I was just looking into what turbo I can run... The hx35's are Half the price of the gm8's...

And how would a 6.2 manifold work? It has the round air cleaner mount with just 2 bolts, vs the turbos are 6 bolts...

Yep, cheapest upper+lower intake vin f is $250 plus shipping...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 06-20-2016 at 07:52 PM.
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  #24  
Old 06-21-2016, 01:15 PM
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DieselSJ DieselSJ is offline
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Location: QC, AZ
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Guys use the 6.2 either with the Banks plenum or with the plenum from Peninsular (not sure if they still make it though). I originally had a H1 intake with the Banks plenum and just had it rotate 90 degrees. Peninsular also makes a nice hat for the 6.5 intake that is a lot nicer than the factory unit.

http://www.peninsulardiesel.com/WP-P...intake-adaptor

Then you just need to find a standard 6.5 lower and not worry about the plenum. Seriously I don't know what is going on with Ebay sellers right now but those prices are insane. I got my 6.5 lower for $55.

Be patient - they will come back down in price. Also keep in mind that the stock 6.5 turbo mounting location means that you lose the heater box because that is where the exhaust is going to be.
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-87 Grand, 6.5L diesel, MHI TE06H turbo, Water/air intercooler, Art Carr 700R4, CS-130, hydroboost. 21/24mpg, dead 229 [Custom 242 on the way]
-99 XJ Limited.
-Jeepspeed 1717 -Built 4.0, FAST EFI, Rubicon Express, Bilstein, Rigid Industries, 4 Wheel Parts, G2 Axle, Currie Enterprises
-Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
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  #25  
Old 06-23-2016, 02:18 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Well, my new radiator is in. Here are pics of the old vs new...
The original Ebay, AMC aluminum rad...


The new crossflow without mounts:


And I cut the mounts off the ebay one and alumiwelded to the new one.
I had to cut 1" off the width of the old mounts because the radiator itself is 2" wider and those ears would interfere with the battery tray and washer bottle... Either way, Its bolted in, with 1/8" to maybe 3/16" gap between the radiator and the core support. It fits better than the original OEM radiator!

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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 10-03-2017 at 12:07 PM.
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  #26  
Old 06-28-2016, 01:01 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Location: Everett, Washington
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Well it's almost ready to go! I only have 30" of exhaust on it, so it's loud... Very loud... The tstat is a 195 (oem) and it sits at 190-195 when driving... It's totally awesome... Got a 4" k&n air filter and it was tight over the intake duct but it works... I'll get pics of it done when I get the chance.

Then I'll finish the exhaust with 3" stacks over the next couple weeks...

Next upgrade... Eaton m112 supercharger... Comes with a 3" 8 rib pulley, exactly the size I need for the 6.5 to run 10-12 lbs of boost... Only need to make a base plate to tig weld to the intake... But it's going to be a while, unless someone has an M112 laying around for cheap....
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #27  
Old 07-04-2016, 10:08 AM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Well I thought it may have been from just sitting for a few months, but it turns out cylinder 1 has low compression... It blows blue smoke out the drivers side bad when revved or under load...

The guy I bought it from swore it was a good motor and didn't smoke, but refuses to do anything about it... I'm so glad I payed through PayPal so I have buyer protection... I kept the emails saying it was a good motor... Not sure where to go from here... Guess I'll pull the intake and valve cover and hopefully it's just a broken plastic retainer... If it's more serious than that, it's going to get yanked out and I will get my money back or a new motor...

For those looking at getting GEP diesels from the military hmmwv's, I would be leery of getting them from CBR Metalworks in North Carolina... He will gladly take your money and sell you a "good motor" that isn't good...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #28  
Old 07-10-2016, 02:22 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Location: Everett, Washington
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Well it had a bent pushrod, so at least it was an easy fix. It's running strong now. Just need to put on some exhaust and then it will be road worthy...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #29  
Old 07-13-2016, 04:59 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Join Date: May 06, 2008
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Mufflers are on, Walker soundFX 18229, 3in in and out. I didnt want anything to loud since I will be putting stacks on it eventually. Dual 3" should be more than adequate for the 6.5 NA, and even up to 10-12lbs of boost. Ill get pics the next time I go outside... Its 104 right now...

It really doesnt smoke either, even at WOT. Very little black smoke... I wonder if i can turn the fuel up about 1/8 turn and see what it does...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 07-13-2016 at 05:30 PM.
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  #30  
Old 07-30-2016, 06:25 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Location: Everett, Washington
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Well after 2 weeks of running, my coolant seems to be disappearing and my coolant is very very dark brown, almost black... Its not oil and after sitting over night, it settle to the bottom of the coolant bottle...

I have no oil in my coolant, and no coolant in my oil... It has to be combustion gasses entering my coolant somehow, but when I start it cold in the morning, the hoses stay soft, even collapse a little when I rev it...

Guess Ill be pulling the heads in a few days to make sure everything is ok.
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #31  
Old 08-31-2016, 10:44 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Well, the head bolts were scrapped and received some arp studs. Used permatex high temp thread sealer after chasing all threads and cleaning them when I installed new headgaskets and reinstalled the heads. No leaks anywhere! No more disappearing coolant (no idea where it was going before) and after flushing the cooling system 3-4 times over 2 weeks has cleared everything up. All is good! Except one thing... I had to upgrade it...

I got both turbo exhaust manifolds, new crossover pipe, upper and lower intake manifolds, turbo pressure and return tube, everything to put a turbo on for a mere $400... My father-in-law bought me an HX-35w to bolt on and I made a new exhaust flange for it and a true 4" downpipe and exhaust...

It's now running 15-16 lbs of boost, IP is turned up about 1/2 turn, and it is totally wicked... Beats the snot out of the n/a version and better than my 406 stroker... And double the gas mileage... Last tank (33 gal) averaged about 600 miles vs my stoker was barely 350 miles on 33 gallons... Love this truck even more...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #32  
Old 10-02-2016, 09:20 AM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Just an update... It made the journey to Washington just fine. Total weight was just shy of 14,000 lbs and it still averaged 14 mpg averaging between 60-70 mph...

Here in Washington, I have just touched the 20 psi boost mark in 4th at WOT and 3000 rpm but it typically only sees 12-15 psi... The wastegate is set to 20 psi so it rarely even opens. No haze at all when cruising and having to pass someone at 60. I will have to get pics up of the current setup.
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #33  
Old 10-02-2016, 09:34 AM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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Hey BA,

I love this truck! Great job on the low-cost build and thanks for sharing part numbers etc.

I put a homemade waste-gate control (just all-thread and springs) on that I have set to limit to 7psi boost. I am afraid of blowing a head gasket, perhaps needlessly. My rig also has the interesting disappearing coolant issue, but none ever shows up in my oil, nor oil in the coolant. I might just do the head stud and gasket fix you did.

The only long-term issue I've had was twice my fuel lines developed air leaks. Each time was a few years apart, so I'd forgotten the symptoms and fix and was convinced I'd worn out the IP. Sooner or later I'm going to install the 40-gallon Suburban tank with all new braided lines and -AN fittings and forget about all that stuff.

Looking forward to more pics and updates!
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  #34  
Old 10-16-2016, 08:36 PM
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TrenchFoot TrenchFoot is offline
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Location: SnoValley, WA
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I'm digging those cast iron motor mount spacers. Clearing the steering shaft seems to be a common issue. Any idea how much that raised your overall height?

I want a set now and stole one of your pics to use in a wanted ad on The Diesel Page. If you have a spare set lemme know.
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'78 Wag, 401/TH400/QT pulling the rust down the road. Chevy 6.2L turbo diesel waiting in the wings...
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  #35  
Old 10-20-2016, 04:19 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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I don't have spares unfortunately... they are the factory spacers/motor mount brackets from the military hummer. I had to redrill the mount pattern to bolt on my adapter mounts from advance adapters. The military mounts are different from everyone else...

It actually sits quite low in the engine bay and wouldn't fit if I didn't have the 10" or so lift on it... I have since added 2" spacers to raise it up a bit for better drive line angles...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #36  
Old 10-27-2016, 09:49 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Here is a shot of the motor as it sits now. I will have to get more. I am looking for a different thermostat crossover so I can use the 1996+ AC/powersteering bracket so I can mount up my York 210 for my OBA again. I loved having OBA with my 360 and my stroker.



Also, I am working on building a fan shroud from fiberglass to fit the 21" duramax fan and the radiator I swapped in. I will have to get pics of that as I progress through the project.
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 10-03-2017 at 12:08 PM.
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  #37  
Old 11-17-2016, 01:18 AM
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TrenchFoot TrenchFoot is offline
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Have you put the sway bar in? I'm curious what the clearance is between the crank pulley and harmonic balancer is from the sway bar. Trying to position my 6.2 motor mounts and with the engine as low as I can position it my balancer is pretty close and my oil fill is still pretty high.
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'78 Wag, 401/TH400/QT pulling the rust down the road. Chevy 6.2L turbo diesel waiting in the wings...
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  #38  
Old 11-20-2016, 10:31 PM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Oh, no sway bars for me. Even in stock form, my '74 did not come with a sway bar. The mounting holes/brackets are not present like on my 76/78/79 parts trucks.

It really doesnt have a lot of sway to begin with, unlike my 96 SAS exploder, I HAD to run sway bars front and back with that... I dont think I will put one on unless I make it a 4 link w/ coils...

... I need to get some more pics posted of the current setup. I changed the thermostat crossover to the single, bypass blocking thermostat from the 1992-1995 6.5's so I can fab a bracket to mount my york 210... I miss my OBA like I had on my amc... And get pics of my fan shroud... I made one out of fiberglass and it fits absolutely perfectly...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's
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  #39  
Old 11-21-2016, 12:37 PM
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TrenchFoot TrenchFoot is offline
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Gotcha. Like any swapper I'm fixated on the final position of the engine. I am as low as I can get it without hitting the harmonic balancer. With the front clip off the frame I can't tell if the tstat, oil fill or cruise control diaphragm are too high, but they look like they might be. I may end up needing a tstat housing like you just replaced so my coolant hose doesn't hit.
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'78 Wag, 401/TH400/QT pulling the rust down the road. Chevy 6.2L turbo diesel waiting in the wings...
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  #40  
Old 12-01-2016, 02:31 AM
BA_051 BA_051 is offline
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Ok well I made a fan shroud out of fiberglass during my spare time and it fits absolutely perfectly, but I cant mount it quite yet... I need to add a little to the top so I can mount it to the radiator... Here are some pics of the build stages...
cardboard cut to core size:

Cant show this image because it has 3 smiley faces in the URL... Dont know why it wont show the image but whatever, its a cardboard square the size of the radiator core.

Cardboard cut to fan size +1/2", so 21.5" around


Using 1" strips to make a positive of the shroud, all taped together using clear packing tape...





First couple layers of fiberglass:



Removing the Cardboard positive... The tape made it come out real easy...




I have marked where I will trim the fiberglass to make it 3" wide and clean up the edges.

It looks like the shroud is a little, off, but its just camera trickery... Its perfectly square, and the top is nice and even... the glare on the right side makes it look a bit warped, but its not lol More Pics to come as I finish up the shroud...


Also working on getting my OBA back on... I found an 8 rib serpentine clutch for the york compressors for a mere $65... Just need to fab a bracket and on it goes! Pics of the that to come...
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(12v swap in progress) 1974 Jeep J20, gladiator grill, 12v p7100 cummins, Modified He351, 4" strait piped, NV4500/Ford NP205, D60HP, 14b, 4.56's, 12" lift, 37x12.50x16.5's

Last edited by BA_051 : 10-03-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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