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  #21  
Old 06-18-2019, 04:06 PM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,298
Your truck looks unmolested enough, you hold your mouth just right and wearing the right color shirt...you may get lucky but after 50 years don't bet on it.
Dana axles came with two alum tags mounted between two cover bolts. One tag will be the ratio tag and have a block of 4 numbers stamped into it. The first two will be the ring gear tooth count the other two will be the pinion tooth count.
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  #22  
Old 06-18-2019, 06:06 PM
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rws31 rws31 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 10, 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 74
Quote:
Originally Posted by offthebeatenpath
Just ran across a local (10 min. away) ad for a pair of J-truck D44 axles with 4.27 gears..... asking $100.

What do I need to look at in order to evaluate these as candidates for an axle swap into my '65?
I'm hoping they're open knuckle, but the ad photos only show the rear.
What year did the axle configuration change?

I'm currently running a T98 4 speed with I assume a Dana 20 transfer case. So, that's a passenger side front diff, and centered rear I think.




Are you planning on really tall tires or an overdrive with those 4.27 gears. Or both. That's a lot of rpm. Will definitely give it some pulling power.
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89 GW, 454, 700R4, 241C, 411's with posi's, 9" rearend, 2500 stall, lifted, and lots more to do.
1988 Ramcharger
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  #23  
Old 06-18-2019, 06:15 PM
offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 31, 2019
Location: MT
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe
Your truck looks unmolested enough, you hold your mouth just right and wearing the right color shirt...you may get lucky but after 50 years don't bet on it.
Dana axles came with two alum tags mounted between two cover bolts. One tag will be the ratio tag and have a block of 4 numbers stamped into it. The first two will be the ring gear tooth count the other two will be the pinion tooth count.

Well, looks like I picked the right shirt off the rack last night when I set out my clothes for today!!!
Under about 1/4" of grime, here's what I found- no axle swap needed for me. Though it does also explain why the engine revs as high as it does at 50 mph....

I might have to go backwards in gearing, or make some bigger shoes fit. Right now it's rolling on 265/75/16's. I'd love to get some 33x10's or 9's underneath it, but I think I'll need some suspension work to pull that off.
The first goal is to get it running and driving, suspension and tires can wait. Well, I probably oughtta put a shock on the passenger side rear where that empty space is

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  #24  
Old 06-18-2019, 06:38 PM
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rws31 rws31 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 10, 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 74
Nice. Just think of the money and time you just saved.

I'll bet it does rev at 50. Keep the gearing and go overdrive.
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89 GW, 454, 700R4, 241C, 411's with posi's, 9" rearend, 2500 stall, lifted, and lots more to do.
1988 Ramcharger
1999 International 4700 Crew Cab 4X4, custom step side bed
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  #25  
Old 06-18-2019, 06:53 PM
offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 31, 2019
Location: MT
Posts: 22
What overdrive units are compatible with these old rigs?

Maybe I’ll just roll with 34’s or 35’s instead...
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  #26  
Old 06-19-2019, 03:45 PM
offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 31, 2019
Location: MT
Posts: 22
Floor pans??

Getting ready to order some sheetmetal for the floor pans, and I've got a couple questions.
1 - So far, I've found BJ's, ZM Jeeps, and Classic 2 Current that sell pieces. Or, I could go pick up a sheet and muddle my way through myself. I can weld(ish), but I don't have a brake. Any other sources I should look at?

2 - BJ's states that the dimensions of their part is 22" x 18.5". My floors are rusty enough that one piece won't cover what I need. What's the best route to get the amount I need? Order 2 driver's side fronts and 2 passenger's side fronts, or order a front and rear (from a Waggy) for each side?
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  #27  
Old 06-19-2019, 05:04 PM
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jeepman1 jeepman1 is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jul 22, 2015
Location: Cortez fl
Posts: 414
Nice truck! Good luck and listen to Joe. Love the helper too!
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  #28  
Old 06-22-2019, 04:08 AM
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rws31 rws31 is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 10, 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 74
I am not to familiar with the older engines but don't think there is an overdrive or adapter to add overdrive trans to the older engines. Maybe someone else can let us both know.

Depends on what your intentions are with the future of the build. If you are set on all original, tall tires are your only option. Could go with a newer AMC engine and adapt to a 700r4 for overdrive. Me personally, newer engine/trans combo would be a no-brainer unless I had an absolute cream puff truck and was rare enough to be somewhat valuable. It really depends on what you want to do with it in the future.
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89 GW, 454, 700R4, 241C, 411's with posi's, 9" rearend, 2500 stall, lifted, and lots more to do.
1988 Ramcharger
1999 International 4700 Crew Cab 4X4, custom step side bed
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  #29  
Old 06-22-2019, 08:40 AM
offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 31, 2019
Location: MT
Posts: 22
Well, it’s no cream puff that’s for sure. It’s a solid platform, but I’m not all in on a frame off restoration, I don’t have the time or funds for that.

It’s got a few good factory options, (factory radio, T98 4 speed, Dana 53 rear) but I don’t think it’s a rare bird. Or, if it is rare, it’s still not very desirable.

I’d mostly just like it to be drivable, with a little more aggressive stance.
I really don’t think (in my case) it’s worth the time to swap engine, drive train, axles and suspension just to keep the rhino grille. I’d be better off buying a ‘76+ as a platform.

On the other hand, with the 6-230, closed knuckle front axle, and no power steering, it’ll never be a nimble off-road machine either. The 4.27’s will help, but only so much. It’s got 16” wheels, but I don’t know if they’re factory or not, nothing else has been messed with at all.

If I can drive it to work, take it up into the mountains on some logging and forest service roads to go fishing and collect firewood, I’ll be stoked.

The stock leaf springs seem to be in decent shape, so I may just go with 1-2” lift blocks and some 33 or 34” mud terrain pizza cutters and call it good. Those Buckshot Mudders look about perfect for my goals.
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  #30  
Old 06-25-2019, 07:59 AM
offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 31, 2019
Location: MT
Posts: 22
It has a 1 barrel intake with the Holley 1920 carb. I ordered a rebuild kit for it from http://www.carburetor-parts.com a super helpful website with a ton of YouTube videos too.

The truck was having a lot of trouble idling at all, which is why I ordered the kit. After I ordered the kit, I watched one of his videos where he mentions as a side note that a lot of electric in line fuel pumps have too much pressure for carbs like this and cause them to run rough. I think that’s a part of my problem, so I’ll have to add a fuel pressure regulator in somewhere.

It also has the old school oil bath air filter on it, which I’ll either swap out or alter to accept a round paper filter.





Overall, the carb is in decent shape, but I may still have some issues. The brass throttle plate shaft is worn pretty good and has a lot of slop in the bushings. I may try to re-bush it to save some coin for now.

I’ve been looking at my options for carbs and intakes (apparently there’s a 2bbl intake for the 230 out there too), and ran across this. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...22 3468125607
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  #31  
Old 06-25-2019, 08:03 AM
offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 31, 2019
Location: MT
Posts: 22
Dropped the oil pan tonight, found good news and bad news.



See the brazing on the left and right sides of the top end of the pan? Looks like somebody threw the #6 cylinder rod at some point. The oil pan is dented from the inside out right under the #6 cylinder. That’s the bad news.

The good news is that the oil in the pan was clean. No water, nothing metallic at all

This does confirm my need to do a compression test, which I’ve never done before, but I’m sure I can figure it out. Planning on renting the tools for it from Autozone.

Here’s a couple shots of the cylinder head, things look fairly clean to me, nothing super grody looking. The truck didn’t come with a title, so I don’t have a previous mileage on it except the odometer which reads 15k and change. I assume that’s more like 115k, but who knows!

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  #32  
Old 06-27-2019, 10:45 PM
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63J200atLSU 63J200atLSU is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Jan 15, 2016
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 482
Hey man! I'm stoked to have another Tornado guy on the forum! We spoke briefly via the ole Facebook, but wanted to drop something here.

Overdrives. Get ahold of Herm of hermtheoverdriveguy.com, let him know your setup and he''ll tell you what'll fit. There was a Borg Warner overdrive that would work on these rigs, provided you only used it in 2WD. They're pretty hard to find, but it's on my short list of future plans. I'm planning on using the switch and circuit for the 4wd light as a relay based lockout for the overdrive solenoid.

As far as the 2 barrel carb, I was lucky and found the intake manifold on eBay for $100. It came with 3 carbs that were all in really bad shape. I cobbled one working carb together out of the three. It runs great, but it's still pretty slow, lol... If I ever run across one I'll light up the bat signal!
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If all goes well, we can toast to accidental successes.

I'm convinced I'm just too dumb to know that I can't restore this old truck...
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