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  #1  
Old 02-20-2010, 05:46 PM
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Artisan Artisan is offline
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J30 Rock Slider Design

I almost threw this post in my build thread and I may still, but, since I have not pulled the M-25 trigger yet on the Miller MIG I thought I would run this past the populous for comment. Look at the pics below. I do have on order bungs so I can make water / air tanks and have a crossover hose connecting them in mind soo...but what do you guys think? A little bit big? Just right? Ridiculous? What would you do...now keep in mind my buiild, go see it, theres a link in my sig, before you reply, ok?
There are at least 2 more supports from frame to rock bar coming, although I do believe we will do more of a truss for those and not pipe.
Ideas? Laughs? I would like to here it all...

PS, ya never know, your idea could / might be implimented either by your or my design or both! No matter I retain all rights to the above! HA!

PSS, the redish colored deals are fabricating magnets and NOT a part of the build, NOTHING is welded here, clamps, magnets etc abound...

I plan on gussets mimicking the front on the rear (not pictured) as well.






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  #2  
Old 02-20-2010, 06:02 PM
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Here is another side view ;

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  #3  
Old 02-20-2010, 08:06 PM
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I like how it goes back to protect the bed also.
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  #4  
Old 02-20-2010, 08:43 PM
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pretty cool design ya got there
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:50 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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They look nice and tight to the cab. I'd leave a bit of room for cab flex (and to allow small rocks and pebbles to fall through) and call it good.
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:58 PM
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That is very nice.
I like the idea of making them air tanks also.
Nice work.
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  #7  
Old 02-21-2010, 07:11 AM
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I think they look very cool. I agree that I would leave a little space for the cab to flex. The air tank idea is great too. I know a guy here in Bakersfield who made his entire roll bar into an air tank on his rock crawler CJ7.
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:39 AM
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In the first pic, looking down at a 45 ( if you were here looking at the rig ) you can see there is about 1" of space ebetween the cab and tube.
I had considered since the roll cage will join the rock slider support at the front, to punch holes and allow air to fill the cage BUT then I remembered my scuba diving days and the lessons taught. NEVER EMPTY YOU TANK FAST, IT WILL CREATE CONDENSATION INSIDE THE TANK AND LEAVE WATER BEHIND IN THERE. So, I will be sealing up the roll cage so as to prevent any unseen oxidation.

I am thinking about adding more bolts to the attachment plates, I am thinking 6 minimum. The front holes as you see urilize the open extra crossmember holes that a different drivetrain would use so were forced to use a 3/8" bolt. I will keep everything 3/8" bolts and add a couple more I thunk...

I kinda thought I would get some comments like YA NEED MORE SUPPORT BONEHEAD! but no, so I guess I am ok here. The supporst for the OE rails on my FJ Cruiser are way smaller so I assume I will be ok. I want these things to be ROCK SOLID in all planes. If anyone else has installed rock sliders I would love to see some pics of what you did. Espically if you have slammed the helm out of them and they held A-OK.

Thanx for the comments guys, anymore?
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  #9  
Old 02-21-2010, 12:41 PM
budojeepr budojeepr is offline
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As usual, beautiful work. I especially admire the perfect notching.

Couple of questions:
- What material? Looks like 1/4" wall? DOM or HREW or?
- Where'd you get the end caps? Those are cool. I ended up cutting my sliders at an angle and cutting elliptical end caps out of flat stock to close them.

After a few Rubicon runs, my 1-3/4 x .12 DOM sliders have taken a beating. They're kind of bending up at the ends due to ... ahem ... lack of support out there. I think your slider, with its support nearer the end, would be a bit more resistant to such abuse.

One last comment...I understand your truck may be less specialized than my crawling-purposed rig, but I wonder how much the large-diameter slider will cut down on your clearance? I cut my rocker panels (flaming newspaper dropped out!) then put the sliders in that space so it'd be almost like a boatside job. The extra clearance has been a boon in a few tight spots.
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  #10  
Old 02-21-2010, 09:03 PM
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Funny you ask about the material. I bought a full stick of this stuff
maybe 4 years ago. I had tried to notch (fishmouth ) it w/ a 3.5" holesaw and before I was .125" thru the foundry slag the hole saw was toast. It sat till a couple of days ago and I attacked it again. This material burns up a Ridgid holesaw at 1/3 the way through, this time I used Tap Magic cutting fluid. The other side is waiting for 2 more holesaws to arrive, I ordered Dewalt this time to destroy. I looked at the material quickly today and there is no seam at all inside and it looks like there are a lot of lines runing with the pipe inside so I assum I bought DOM. It is heavy and tougher then nails. I think it is .375 thick. The end caps are your everyday run of the mill 3.5" weld on cap. Shouldn't be hard to find in all flavors / sizes. I did weld all 4 of them on today and ground the welds smooth. I used a 1" belt sander as a hand held tool after I took the table off it and WOW! NICE Finish! They look freaking awsome.

I call them my Launch Torpedos...

Elleptical caps are a good trick as well!

The clearance issue, well, they are no lower then the frame rails.... What am I loosing here? If I used 2" tube the difference in gained height would be only .75 inches, sooo no biggy really to me. There already is a huge space and this is a long bed 4x4 truck, not a crawler as you say so were all good...

I will try to read the tube and get the exact make of the pipe. I think it is pipe and not tube. These things aint gonna bend, EVER.
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Last edited by Artisan : 02-21-2010 at 09:07 PM.
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  #11  
Old 11-30-2010, 10:09 AM
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update?
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Old 12-05-2010, 03:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68
update?



X's 2!
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