74 Chief Restore

[miracleed]

I wouldn't be surprised if their prices a very high because of the vanity tax on being able to say it was done at WCC. I'd wait across the street until break time and follow one of the tattooed kids to their car and ask them what their price was for doing it in their garage.

Regardless, that dash looks awesome! Great work.

[SOLSAKS]

I am not that good and
I sanded and painted the metal frame of my dash,....

76 j-10 that gets pad on top, so only a few metal areas show,....

but if you are using satin or flat for less glare
( supposing yours does not get a pad )

the satin and especially flats are much more forgiving

I stripped mine
primed with rustoleum automotive spray can primer
sanded, painted with krylon satin black and it came out good
in my opinion,...

although I did have to sand it down one more time and re spray
since I had a sag that I knew would bother me.

if I can do it, you can do it. ( I am too dumb to post photos )

dave in NC

[SJTD]

I think $2500 is the ole we don't want to bother with it price.

[SOLSAKS]

SJTD,...that is funny and true....

price it so high that it scares the crap out of the dude,...never to return.

dave in NC

[rang-a-stang]

What about getting it vinyl wrapped?

[bkilby]

Originally Posted by SJTD

I think $2500 is the ole we don't want to bother with it price.

Lol. My buddy and I joked saying that's the I don't want to do it price. So yeah, I agree.

[bkilby]

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang

What about getting it vinyl wrapped?

Thought about that too. I wonder what WCC would charge....not! Lol!

[bkilby]

Progress? I guess that's what you call it. The new paint guy said a week. That was 2 months ago. Lol. Just got it back yesterday evening.

[rws31]

Please hurry up and get that installed. I wanted to do what you did and make a complete custom dash but chickened out. Can't wait to see it installed with the gauges. Very nice!

[itselliot]

I just started looking thru your build thread...(luckily) The Bultear photos made me spot my incorrect idler wheel set-up.....Going to get a longer belt and turn my idler "down" ASAP...

[SOLSAKS]

ho-ho-ho green giant !!!

dang that dash looks good,...worth the wait !

really nice,..... it is going to be super cool.

dave in NC

[bkilby]

Been in a holding pattern on the dash. I was suppose to get help from an ex employee and start the dash after Christmas but that didn't happen. It's next on the list but for now, I decided it'd be a great idea to do a shackle reversal. Lol. I wasn't liking how the Jeep was handling and decided to just "do it".



I decided to buy the "YJ Shackle Reversal" system that WFO Concepts offers. It's the correct width, uses the correct size bushings and bolts and has a cut out for the steering gear box. I can go more into it later but for now, a couple of pics.



The before look.



The WFO bracket being installed..... kind of..





I have everything all lined up the best I could, tack welded it (more like 1/2" stitches) but something is off. Like a lot. The WFO bracket is 100% spot on when measuring from the rear brackets or any other part of the frame but when you look at it from the side, the passenger side is approx 1/2-3/4" farther forward than the drivers side. A buddy and I spent a few hours today measuring, measuring and measuring and come to the conclusion that the frame is probably bent, maybe diamond shaped. The rear axle appears to be crooked as well. Yay.

[bkilby]

I'm going to call a local shop on Monday to see if they have a frame rack. I think they do but not sure. Anyhow, it's frustrating to get this far then have to stop because something just ain't right. Btw, the wheel base on the passenger side is approx 3/4" longer than the drivers side at this point. Ugh.

Al, I still owe you an email. I haven't forgotten. Lol.

[bkilby]

Got the Jeep back from the shop. No solid conclusion as to what's going on. They said the rear axle is bent slightly on the drivers side. Too much negative camber (leaning in at the top). They also concluded the wheelbase is .600 longer on the passenger side. Gee, didn't I already say that in the previous post? Lol. They said the WFO bracket is in correct, the frame doesn't appear to be bent or diamond shaped. They think it's all in the rear axle and the body is on the frame crooked. They did give me lots of print outs though. I guess I'll just use my own tape measure and figure out what to do.



When we were doing the measuring last Saturday, we did see the factory put the rear axle in crooked by 1/4" but can't recall direction. Even if I correct the rear, that doesn't correct the front looking like it's in crooked....unless the body is on crooked. <sigh>. It's always something.....

[rang-a-stang]

Hm. I guess that's good news? I mean it doesn't answer you questions but it's better than doing a chassis swap at this point...

When you say:

Originally Posted by bkilby

the factory put the rear axle in crooked by 1/4"

Think of how many areas there are of slop that can make up that 1/4". A little bit of slop (say 1/16") in where the hole on the spring pad on your axle, a little slop in the bolt hole on the spring centering bolt location (say another 1/16"), a little bit of slip or wear in the spring eyelet bushing (say 1/8") and your axle is now 1/4" off (assuming you are measuring the location of the axle compared to the chassis and not the location of the spring perches). I wonder how much effect that 1/4" has on your rig? I am sure I am preaching to the choir here...

[SJTD]

Body could be crooked on the frame but when you consider that it's maybe twice as long as it is wide to get half an inch front/back at the front wheel you'd have to move the back an inch to the side. Should be easy measure to see if that's it. The book may even have the reference points to measure. There's lotsa slop in the stock mount sleeves.

Did you spend some time measuring the fender itself? Maybe it's off. Go from the back edge forward.

Maybe make a template of one opening and try it on the other side. Could be the angles at the front of the openings are a little different.

I was thinking about different arch in the springs but that would show up in the wheelbase and a difference from the front eye to the axle. Frame guy should have seen it.

[bkilby]

Originally Posted by rang-a-stang

a little bit of slip or wear in the spring eyelet bushing (say 1/8") and your axle is now 1/4" off (assuming you are measuring the location of the axle compared to the chassis and not the location of the spring perches). I wonder how much effect that 1/4" has on your rig? I am sure I am preaching to the choir here...

We weren't measuring the axle itself. Too many variables. We were measuring certain points on the frame to the front leaf spring pin mounts. Remember, this is a '74. No fancy double shear leaf spring mounts here.

[bkilby]

Originally Posted by SJTD

Body could be crooked on the frame but when you consider that it's maybe twice as long as it is wide to get half an inch front/back at the front wheel you'd have to move the back an inch to the side. Should be easy measure to see if that's it. The book may even have the reference points to measure. There's lotsa slop in the stock mount sleeves.

Did you spend some time measuring the fender itself? Maybe it's off. Go from the back edge forward.

Maybe make a template of one opening and try it on the other side. Could be the angles at the front of the openings are a little different.

I was thinking about different arch in the springs but that would show up in the wheelbase and a difference from the front eye to the axle. Frame guy should have seen it.

We did measure the fender. They appear pretty close in measurements. But I need to measure again. I didn't write anything down. I'll have to check the wheel opening to see if they're the same.

[asphaltrockdweller]

Time for......
That and a little JB Weld and your goodtogo!

[bkilby]

Originally Posted by asphaltrockdweller

Time for......
That and a little JB Weld and your goodtogo!

LOL. You're funny. Maybe JB Weld the sawsall to the work bench?