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Old 10-20-2009, 08:07 PM
jeepdreamer jeepdreamer is offline
Gear Head
 
Join Date: Jan 27, 2008
Location: Colorado springs, co
Posts: 512
AMC360 rebuild prices?

I'm just kinda fishing here... Would anybody mind offering info about what kind of prices are to be expected when getting my 360 rebuilt? Mine ran when pulled from the doner waggy but with only so-so results (carb shot and no gas tank) and unknown mileage. I'd like to have a quality rebuild done but not sure if just getting a "crate" motor (Jasper, Golen, Gopher,etc) would be more bang for the buck. I will be running a Howell F/I kit, Performer intake, edelbrok headers... nothing crazy. looking for dependability mostly. Anyone around colorado that can recomend a good shop would be fantastic! Thanks all!
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Old 10-21-2009, 07:23 AM
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billyrb billyrb is offline
BJ's Off-Road
 
Join Date: Aug 15, 2001
Location: Acworth, GA 30101
Posts: 10,031
for a basic build, budget around $2,300 or so, plus EFI & goodies. Here is a good link to other prices:

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/searc...earchid=656836

Here is a copy of a thread I posted in a while back giving more details:
Quote:
Originally Posted by billyrb
If you are wanting reliability with decent power, but not looking to do any wheel stands, then you should budget around $2,300 or so to be in the "safe" realm. Machine work should cost around $800, plus having them assemble the short block or long block (I do agree that this is money well spent). Parts for a basic kit should run in the $600-800 range, then a little more for a good HEI, intake valley oil mod, a good intake / carb, plugs / wires / good cam / etc. Make sure though, that you spend time "interviewing" a few machine shops. Find out which local ones have AMC experience and also make sure they have AMC torque plates for the final bore honing.

Also, consider a larger oil pan for added capacity, and possibly a remote filter set-up to get even more oil in the system (the lines to and from the remote filter give added capacity as well).

Although some will tell you it's not necessary, and that they've beaten on engines without it and never had a problem, at a bare minimum I would do the intake valley oiling mod. You simply drill a hole in the back of the front oil block in the intake valley, and another hole between the #6 and #8 cylinders, so that pressurized oil is shot down onto the rear bearings. To do this without risking leaving metal shavings in your engine, this needs to be done during the machine-shop work and prior to cleaning / assembly.

Also, make sure you do the following:
1. ensure that your timing gear has the oil passages open and all the flashing has been removed
2. make sure the oil slinger is installed in the correct orientation
3. make sure that you are using a set of matched cam / dizzy gears, or if in good condition, reuse both of the originals (I'd recommend the new, matched set......www.bulltear.com has them)
4. pack the oil pump housing full of petroleum jelly before assembly.....this builds pressure in the system instantly and will help maintain it for initial startup (other have used various items for this instead of petro jelly, but it’s worked well for me)
5. buy a priming tool and prime the engine prior to initial firing
6. make sure your dizzy is dead on, and not 180 degrees out


Pics of one type of intake valley mod kit:




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