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  #1  
Old 11-29-2007, 03:44 AM
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chemlight chemlight is offline
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Question can i get rid of my egr?

I have removed all the smog system except for the egr. With the smog stuff removed does it do anythong? Can I simply plug off vacuum line or do i need to remove and cap entire valve? pros or cons?
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2007, 06:02 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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you can run without it. if the valve is closed-not stuck partially open-you can just dis-connect the hose. give the engine a re-tune,may need to play with the timing a bit,maybe tighten the vacuum advance a bit too.
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2007, 07:39 AM
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JeremySmith JeremySmith is offline
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My egr was gone when I got my cherokee, but it still had all the vacuum lines and switches. I got ride of the rest when I rebuilt the 360. Put a quadrajet on, and plugged the vacuum ports. The only vacuum lines I have now are for the distributor and master cylinder.
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  #4  
Old 11-29-2007, 11:27 AM
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flatbackdragon flatbackdragon is offline
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ditto, all the smog stuff is off my engine, dist and brake booster only vac attached still.
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2007, 04:01 PM
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chemlight chemlight is offline
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How do I tighten the vacuum advance since it is a "vacuum" advance?? please forgive my ignorance-

How did you guys get rid of all your vacuum lines? What about all those bypasses and what not? your carb?
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2007, 04:43 PM
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JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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Plugging the EGR

I think if you just plug the vacuum hose going to the EGr it will ping itself to death, the carb and timing curve is calibrated with the EGR in mind. Removing it from the system will result in a hotter combustion tempeture and promote pinging. I am told that the carbs for EGR vehicles are jetted richer to off set the intake charge dilution from the EGR. There are others here that will give you a more detailed and scientific explanation but the bottom line is that you will experience preignition ( pinging)
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1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2007, 06:47 PM
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X2 on what Jersey Joe says, the EGR valve actualy cools the combustion process by allowing small amounts of burned exhaust into the intake. Can you kill it? sure. Will you notice any improvements? probably not.
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2007, 08:40 PM
Richomino Richomino is offline
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Hey there!

You can just remove and cap the vacuum source, and get a 70s Chevy EGR blockoff plate, remove the EGR valve, and slap it in there, it fits.......

I removed the whole vacuum thing on my 360 (Running on LPG), and use vacuum to brake booster only.....

Later!
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2007, 09:26 PM
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The PIG Smith The PIG Smith is offline
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The EGR on my J20 was dead and I removed it.
The intake is blocked off with a homemade plate.

I've been dealing with some pinging and other gooy timing/carb issues.
I've been thinking about reinstalling my EGR valve.

What other choices do I have for an EGR valve than a AutoZone part?
Since this is an GM designed part, would another style unit from a GM product be better?
Without all the CTO valves, how would I plumb it up?
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2007, 11:23 PM
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JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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EGR VALVE

As far as I know all EGR valves are NOT created equal. They may look the same and bolt on but there are a low of different calibrations. The CTO, coolant tempeture override prevents EGR operation at extremely low and extremely high engine tempetures. Some models also had a back pressure transducer the delayed or prevented EGR operation unless there was a specific amount of exhaust backpressure available. Completely eliminating the EGR is possible but timing and jetting may be necessary.. EGR is a thing of the past since modern engines dont have them, air injection pumps also. I will personally have them bolted to my engine since the inspection station idiots are trained to look for them. The block off plate is fine to get rid of the valve. If the valve does not leak just taking the hose off works also if you want to leave it for looks. Unless you have a mildly modified engine I would leave the valve unless it is leaking and causing a vacuum leak.
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1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2007, 11:26 PM
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skeletor skeletor is offline
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does the egr hook up to ported vacuum or to the cto tree? right now i have it capped off just wondering.
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  #12  
Old 11-29-2007, 11:33 PM
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JERSEY JOE JERSEY JOE is offline
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EGR

THE CTO TREE. LOOK AT A POST FROM YESTERDAY I ASKED FOR A VACUUM DIAGRAM AND FUNHOGS POSTED A WEBSITE FOR ALL MODEL YEARS SHOWING ALL VACUUM HOSE LOCATIONS.

SORRY FOR THE CAPS. ITS LATE AND I CAN BARELY SEE TO TYPE.
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1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 IHC D300 FARM TRUCK NY
1985 CJ 7 AMC 401, CLARK 285SV 5 SPEED, DANA 60, DANA 44, RUBICON 4.5 LIFT. 37 KRAWLERS
1987 J-20 401 90% COMPLETED.
1985 J-20 360 6 inch lift, 37's plow truck
1986 J-20 360 stock well rusted plow truck
1970 AMX CURRENT PROJECT
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2007, 03:39 AM
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chemlight chemlight is offline
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thanks for the follow up, I don't have to worry about inspections where I live. With that in mind I have the air pump disabled, the air pipes removed from my exhaust manifolds, all the wierd valves romeoved that were attached to the air pipes and vacuum to them plugged. With the previous post in mind it seems that the EGR is fully inoperative now. The line to my cat cnvrtr ic capped as well.

Looking at all this do I need any of the vacuum lines coming to and from the CTOs? If not how do I plug them? I don't mind adjusting the timing or jets. Is there a diagram showing all these removed?
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2007, 09:46 AM
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BarryL BarryL is offline
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No, you do not need the CTO lines. You need to leave your PCV operation and, I would suggest, the purge signal to your cannister, and the TAC Vac motor vacuum system.

The CTO's are no longer needed. I removed mine.
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