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  #1  
Old 03-12-2020, 02:59 PM
djobe944 djobe944 is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Dec 31, 2002
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 13
Complete Motor, Transmission and Tcase swap recommendations.

Im restoring my 1985 J-10. My goal is to get in it, when i retire, and drive it to Alaska!

I want to put in an all modern engine, transmission and transfer case. Chevy seems to be the cheapest and most plentiful option.

What would you suggest or if you have done it what was your experience.

Im new to the site and look forward to the wealth of information here.
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  #2  
Old 03-12-2020, 03:15 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is online now
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Location: Camarillo, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djobe944
Join Date: Dec 31, 2002
...Im new to the site and look forward to the wealth of information here...
Dang! You are new here!

bkilby did a hemi and 6 speed auto swap.
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=178154

His-n-hers woodies did LS swaps in like a weekend
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=185179

There was another build on here where a member swapped his cab onto a shortened 2000's Ram 2500 Cumins chassis but I can't find the link.

If you want the cheapest/easiest modern drivetrain, it's going to be a Chevy LS. They are plentiful and the aftermarket support for them is insanely good. I personally would rather do a Hemi and ZF 8 speed from a 2010'ish Ram (my plan in a couple years). I think they are a better combo but have a smaller aftermarket support. I think either of those combos will get you to Alaska and back but neither are going to be cheap.
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  #3  
Old 03-12-2020, 06:23 PM
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bufurd bufurd is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Apr 13, 2008
Location: ashland wi.
Posts: 575
This is gonna date me but..... I'd go with a 455 olds, turbo 400 and a D20 t-case with 3:2something gears if ya ain't loaded, 3:54 if ya are. (I equate better with modern) Reason being is old school simplicity and reliability. I'm sorry (to the ladies) but I feel like a girl when I look under the hood of these new vehicles. Good luck, point is keep it simple would be my advice. I know the D20 comes up on the wrong side for a 85 front, addressable for sure. My 2 cents.
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  #4  
Old 03-15-2020, 07:34 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
If you want the cheapest/easiest modern drivetrain, it's going to be a Chevy LS. ...
+1. Usually things are popular for a reason. Buy the whole vehicle and take what you need, scrap the rest.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2020, 10:55 AM
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cu4whln cu4whln is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 16, 2008
Location: Canton, Mi USA !
Posts: 1,189
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
+1. Usually things are popular for a reason. Buy the whole vehicle and take what you need, scrap the rest.


A major consideration.. wiring and tech support. MOPAR just doesn't provide much of anything. MOPAR auto trans support? Uh, good luck unless its an early trans. The Chevy 4L60e or 4L80e are good solutions - especially since you have a driver side drop t-case already. MAJOR support for the Chevy stuff.

The LS engines? Dime a dozen, and major aftermarket support. Mounts, ECUs, wiring - all easily available.

Get a Gen I - IV engine.. and make sure it has a power steering pump. Many don't and it's $$ to add that.. ( ask me how I know.. ). BJs sells a bolt in LS mount kit too
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1977 "401" 'Da Chief
1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
2001 XJ : Driver 2016 JK 2 door

'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

"Madness" build here:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280
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  #6  
Old 03-27-2020, 07:30 PM
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Carnuck Carnuck is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 12, 2011
Location: Gold Bar, WA
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XJ Cherokee Parts rig about ‘91 to ‘95 vintage for HO 4.0L, auto trans and simplest wiring. AW4 automatics are on a par with 727 and TH400 for longevity and strength. ‘91 YJ speedometer adapter allows a pass through cable for stock speedometer and runs the trans computer too.
Just running roads I would go with NP242. It does what the NP229 does but without a viscous coupler, yet better than the NP228. Tire size will direct the axle ratios plus final usage.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2020, 09:16 PM
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cu4whln cu4whln is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 16, 2008
Location: Canton, Mi USA !
Posts: 1,189
What engine/trans is in your truck now?

If its a 6 cyl, I second the 4.0L recommendation .. That's a SOLID engine with modern fuel injection. Target a 92 to 95 unit. SBEC control.

The AW4 can also be mated to a 360/401. Its has OD for some fuel econ. Its rated up to 430 ft lbs.
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It's not yours 'til ya bleed on it . . .

1977 "401" 'Da Chief
1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
2001 XJ : Driver 2016 JK 2 door

'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

"Madness" build here:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280
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  #8  
Old 03-29-2020, 04:41 PM
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Carnuck Carnuck is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 12, 2011
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 6,419
The AW4 fuel economy works if you have 3.31 or lower axles (depends on tire size) matched back to original tire size/axle ratio of the XJ. Usually 26” tires and 3.55 ratio.
I ran 3.73 with 33” tires on a Renix or stroker 6. I’d probably go 4.10 with HO and 33”. Cam profile depends on whether you are going carb, EFI or LPG. Same with EGR (Renix only) or not.
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