International Full Size Jeep Association
Home Forums Reader's Rigs Tech Library Trail Stories FSJ-List
International Full Size Jeep Association  

Go Back   International Full Size Jeep Association > Tire Kickin' > Build Threads

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-13-2019, 11:47 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
1968 J-3600

Starting a build thread .

Last summer I had the truck repainted, I did most of the disassembly and reassembly of the trim, panels, bumpers, etc.



Truck Looked good drove a 3-400 miles trouble free.

Then,

Last September I checked to oil, added to the top of the "safe" zone and drove to school.

Lunch hour rolled around and I went to town with my buddies and the lifters began to tick loudly, I put it off as sticky lifter(s).

The tick quieted down a bit and later on after school i began to drive home (i should've checked the oil in hindsight but as It didn't leak and I thought it didn't burn much oil I didn't)

Then It started to knock and that's when we trailered it home.



The truck burnt through the entire sump of oil in a 25 mile trip

So a few months roll past and Dad and I clean up the shop so the truck can stay in the warmth. (It was -10*C outside)



I filled engine with oil finally realizing that it was out of oil, however an engine burning oil like that needed a rebuild either way.

The 327 fired to life and didnt make a single tick, knock, or cough. It speaks to the toughness of the engine, and the truck drove into the shop on its own power.

Later, in January, disassembly began.

Took the whole front clip off to ease the removal of engine plus transmission



Motor is out



Stripped the engine down with Dad and my very helpful hot rodding neighbor (we are newbies)

I made sure to tag & bag all the bolts and take pictures of as many things as i could.


__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-14-2019, 12:24 AM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Next it was warm that week (5*C ) Very nice weather for March in Alberta, so I worked on stripping the frame and firewall of rust and junk and painted them!

Before:



After:




Painted with John Deere "Blitz Black" (Semi Flat) paint.

Sent out the Cam, Crank, Heads for machining. At home we reamed the cylinders and deglazed the cylinder walls.

My cool neighbor mentioned earlier went out of his way and custom machined a tool to remove the cam bearings, and I did, forgetting to take pictures of their orientation before pounding them out. I'm nearly certain that the bearing hole must face upwards towards the main oil gallery.

----------------------------------------------

Seeding began and I worked on rainy days on the Jeep doing the rewire, (The painless harness came just in time )
I wired everything from inside the cab to the rear of the truck, waiting to completely assemble the front before wiring that.

It went well but I had trouble figuring out the Jeep Connectors unique to the earlier FSJ's and using a multimeter and a notebook I slowly mapped out the connections and labelled them to match the painless harness.

I think the steering column was the hardest but I eventually figured it out



New backup lights




Went to pats auto supply to match my heater defrost hose (2 1/2" hose) and all they had was 2", napa had nothing either and being this far up north it would need to be bought online and shipped (not a big deal but shipping is very pricey) so i made due. It fit well inside and almost sealed on its own however I wrapped it in duck tape to ensure the seal, I always wondered why the defrost didnt work on the drivers side, mainly cause there was no hose

Behind the dash, even though its still busy back there its a lot better than before, and now I know my wiring versus scrathing my head at the previous owners wiring (overloaded circuts, lack of fuses, and just messy :P)



Now everything is fused via the new painless box. It was a extremely tight fit and i made spacers out of pieces of pipe so the wires didnt bent so shard against the firewall. I tried other places but there is so little room there that this was the only option, and look at the clearance with the pedal haha

I need to finish wiring the temp and volt gauges once the engine is in but everything else is done, minus the new gas pedal I have on the way (P.O wrecked the Jeep floor mount and replaced with a pedal with no adjustment that hurt the foot on any period of driving.


Now I'm cleaning pistons and soon the rocker shafts and bolts. After that install new cam bearings, thoroughly clean the block (For the 4th time but better safe then sorry) THEN ASSEMBLY

Before, very dirty and oil scraper holes mostly plugged..

Cleaned with old rings, a shoelace soaked in carb cleaner, and elbow grease. I currently have 4/8 done, takes an hour and a bit each

Then they look like this:



But I think that about sums it up to today!
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-14-2019, 07:53 AM
SOLSAKS's Avatar
SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is online now
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 890
NICE WORK
nice truck.

dave in NC - USA
__________________
SOLSAKS - dave
1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-15-2019, 07:25 AM
Frank Ziebert's Avatar
Frank Ziebert Frank Ziebert is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Dec 04, 2016
Location: Sisters, OR
Posts: 627
Doing great. Keep the pics coming.
__________________
1970 J2000(2500) Currently undergoing frame off resto
Stinger 2005 Jeep Unlimited, Sahara, Rubicon slightly modified
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-19-2019, 02:24 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Finished cleaning all the pistons finally! Happy with how they turned out, moving onto the rocker arms.



Bolts removed, the fancy drilled one on the right.




Took off the snap ring holding the end pieces off (yes it went across the shop, luckily I found it) and took the first pieces up to the bolt holder. I found out that they are pressed on and wondering if I should fully diassemble them to clean as there isn't much wear indicating it was receiving oil



The cap seems pressed in as well, so I am at a loss on what to do here.


I stuck a piece of wire into the oiling hole of the first rocker i removed and it came out as clean as it went in.


Also I somehow lost 3 connecting rod nuts .

So figured out that they are 3/8" fine tread (24 threads per inch i think) but the fine thread nuts we have in the shop fit however they are slightly shorter than the other rod nuts,

Do I buy a whole set from my AMC parts supplier (week away by mail at least) or replace all my nuts with these shallower but well fitting nuts we have on hand.

3/8-24" seems like a common size of rod nuts upon researching and used on Chevy motors as well, much easier to source the parts for up here (i think)

What are your guy's thoughts on this, I want this motor to last and such I don't want to do a silly mistake like putting the wrong nuts on the connecting rod studs...
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-19-2019, 10:07 PM
Crankyolman's Avatar
Crankyolman Crankyolman is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Sep 27, 2017
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 371
Nice thread and nice work. Not many people are willing to tackle a 327 any more. Truck looks real nice. Some day I hope to rewire mine like you did.
__________________
'72 J4500
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-20-2019, 12:34 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,859
Super cool build!
__________________
79 Cherokee Chief, barely runs
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-25-2019, 04:13 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Update, gonna be buying the third set of cam bearings for this engine soon.
I dropped my installer tool and made a knotch in it, then it proceded to gouge the bearing.

However that wasnt the main issue, me and my neighbor were under the assumption that the 327 has two different sizes of bearings (4 large bearings, 1 small in the back) but, I have been made aware that the 327 has 5 SIZES. Every single one is a different I.D.

We made the tool for the smallest of the supposed "large" bearings and that was fine, but installing the other 3 of the big bearings they got consistently larger. When the bearing is bigger than the tool installing it the bearing will "squish" to the size of the tool under pressure of the block (it needs to be supported)

Soooo, that means we made our bearings smaller by using a tool too small


When we get the new set of bearings, we will bring the block to his shop, and the cam aswell, we will measure each bearing, mark it with the respective piece of the cam, and make a tool for each bearing, then install them one by one and check each time with the cam to make sure the clearance is correct before we get too far!

Looking like the truck wont be on the roads this fall but I'm not too concerned as it will be done right the FIRST TIME haha. At least one can hope so, lol.

But Dad needs his shop back sooner or later, so i will finish doing my paint work on the inner fenders and haul that into the machine shed, and work on the motor, tcase (rebuild) and trans (needs a seal) while still having the shop open to work on all the other stuff that needs fixing!

Dads J20 needs wheel bearings I think, We want to pull the body off the CJ8 to work on the chassis/motor, and the 98 Ram needs the headlights replaced

LOTS of fun projects on the way

Doing this project makes me want to go to trades school to be an Auto Mechanic more and more, and possibly get my autobody aswell so I can make this into a career, If not, those skills will certainly help on the farm!
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-25-2019, 05:07 PM
bkilby's Avatar
bkilby bkilby is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jan 10, 2016
Location: Burbank Ca.
Posts: 831
You can't use something like this? Summit Racing sells it....
http://www.wilmarcorp.com/item.aspx?iid=10285
__________________
1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-25-2019, 07:55 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
You can't use something like this? Summit Racing sells it....
http://www.wilmarcorp.com/item.aspx?iid=10285
That would be an option aswell, my neighbor likes to make his own tools, however that kit you linked, would work for any engine but the ones we will make will be 327 only.

Its cheaper to make our own (steel and lathe are here, no shipping and tool costs)

But they are specific to this engine only, and will be useless to me once the bearings are in (hopefully lol) whereas that kit would do many other engines.
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-11-2019, 03:28 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Did some stuff today, put on the steering wheel, cluster is back in, and tach is on.
Week or so ago i redid the "Detroit Joint'' style joint on the steering shaft, much less play now. Repainted the dash needles fluorescent orange much better than before!







On a whim i decided to remove the paint from the radio backer plate and go with a bare steel look, and I love it!



A cheap eBay purchase for some laughs:






Found a few good lead on cheap distributors for the 327 to make into a priming tool, and new cam bearings on the way hopefully in the mail soooN!
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-16-2019, 11:15 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Brought the block to the machine shop, he installed the bearings properly, 100$, I was very happy with the installation.

Not a nick on the bearings and he put the oiling hole facing down or the 6 o'clock position if the block is upright, he said from his experience with blocks with a groove around the bearing that 6 o'clock gives nice oil pressure and supports the cam well, he has built many engines and I take his word for it. Everyone I ask likes the work he does, and he is a very honest and straightforward guy. He even offered advice whenever I needed it for the rest of the build.

He also told me that the main cause of engines failing from his experience was them being dirty upon assembly, and the dirt of course ruining the engine.
I will wait to clean the block untill I am ready to assemble it, as even wrapped in a clean blanket the dust from the farm shop still works its way in.
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-17-2019, 12:00 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,324
Aint the hole in the bearing supposed to align with the hole in the block? The groove won't do anything if oil isn't getting to it. In other words there's no choice in clocking.
__________________
Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-17-2019, 04:11 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Aint the hole in the bearing supposed to align with the hole in the block? The groove won't do anything if oil isn't getting to it. In other words there's no choice in clocking.
The oil feeds from a hole in the block, the bearing journal has a deep groove that goes around the bearing allowing oil to pass around then into the bearing under pressure then onto the main bearings
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-01-2019, 10:59 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
BIG UPDATE:

Haven't posted in a few haha, lots of stuff done. Painted the transmission, did a rear seal on it, new clutch release bearing, assembled the engine, then flywheel and clutch, and remarried engine and trans.

This week I plan on putting the engine into the truck, its in the shop again, i had it in the back of the yard beside my other project



Here are some pictures of the engine build process

Shop Cleaned, all of the engine parts laid out


Clean engine block


Crank In


Putting in pistons



Timing Chain


Oil Pan and balancer pulley


Head gaskets, then heads


Fully assembled, pulley to trans


A bit better I must say, in comparison to 10 months ago


The old girl ready for her engine


Also spent three hours on my back scraping off dirt, grease and grime from the bottom of my cab, then brush painted flat black paint, certainly not "perfect" but I really like the way it looks.
Should have taken a before picture, but you guys have your own jeeps,
and have certainly seen that disaster before,
here is after

__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )

Last edited by ddversatile : 12-02-2019 at 05:09 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12-01-2019, 11:30 PM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
360 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 2,859
Based on the picture of your "other project", I appreciate your priorities!

The front clip sitting in the back ground of some of your pictures, looks to be in approval.

Are you going to replace the valve cover sticker? I think it looks good either way, just curious.
__________________
79 Cherokee Chief, barely runs
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-01-2019, 11:35 PM
Kaiserjeeps's Avatar
Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
Posts: 2,260
Just read from start to finish. Excellent read and super nice truck. It should run very good with all that corrective work. And look great doing it.
__________________
------------------------------------
Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-02-2019, 05:02 PM
ddversatile's Avatar
ddversatile ddversatile is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 08, 2017
Location: Alberta
Posts: 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Based on the picture of your "other project", I appreciate your priorities!

The front clip sitting in the back ground of some of your pictures, looks to be in approval.

Are you going to replace the valve cover sticker? I think it looks good either way, just curious.

Thank you
Yes I am, got them in the mail today

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
Just read from start to finish. Excellent read and super nice truck. It should run very good with all that corrective work. And look great doing it.
Thanks
__________________
1968 Jeep Gladiator J-3000 327 Vigilante V8, currently overhauling it, T-18 transmission, Dana 20 Transfer Case (will get a rebuild+twin stick), Dana 44 full float in the front and semi float 53 in the rear. 4.09 axles
1972 GMC 1500 basket-case (300$ buy )
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Major Decision: New Dana 44 VS Stock Used For 1968 Wagoneer-Drum vs Disc Brakes Harvey General FSJ Tech 11 06-29-2017 06:14 AM
Would like to swap tranny on 1968 J3000 68J3000 General FSJ Tech 9 09-01-2014 01:42 PM
Recently picked up 1968 J3000, long road ahead! 68J3000 Introduce Yourself. 8 08-28-2014 10:31 AM
1968 Jeep Wagoneer "Unicorn Fable." Operations General FSJ Discussion 6 02-09-2010 05:27 PM
1968 jeep gladiator j2600? rustyolred General FSJ Discussion 10 08-18-2009 08:34 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin Version 3.5.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
corner corner