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  #1  
Old 03-03-2007, 01:07 PM
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Unhappy Antifreeze leaking from under head?

Getting closer and closer but things keep popping up. After finally getting to take it for a spin around the block I've found coolant leaking out from what appears to be passenger side head, right in the center. It doesn't gush but enough that a quick trip just around the block left some pretty decent splashing about the starter and front driveshaft.

As far as I can tell peering around underneath it's coming out b/t the head and block. is this a common spot for leakage? Can I cheat and pull the valve cover (assuming that's where the head bolts are) and retorque to see if this stops it? I really don't want to pull the head to replace the head gasket.
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Old 03-03-2007, 01:13 PM
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Cherokee01478 Cherokee01478 is offline
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I'd go with trying to re-torque them before you pull the whole thing. I've known headbolts slacken off after a brief period of running, so it could be that. Also, are you sure it's coming out of that area? Leaks can be deceptive (though at that height on the engine, I guess not that deceptive) Gaskets usually blow in such a way that coolant either goes into the cylinders, or into the oil run - hence the white smoke or water in the oil.

Just my $0.02 (I'm not that hot on engine diagnostics).
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2007, 01:16 PM
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(is this a common spot for leakage?) its a jeep everywhere is a common spot for leakage
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Old 03-03-2007, 03:13 PM
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caionneach caionneach is offline
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What type engine?

I didn't see what type vehicle or engine you're driving in which this happening.

The passenger side on the 258 is the good side to have a leak because you can mostly see that side of the block and it won't be hidden by the intake/exhaust/caruburetor. From the looks of the V8 engine bays, nothing is easy to see on either side of the block.

Pulling the valve cover and retorqueing is a good first step. The 258 head bolt torque spec is 85 lbs; the V8's is 110.

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  #5  
Old 03-03-2007, 04:00 PM
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Oops, 360. 10-4, also noticed a slight oil leak from the very rear of the driver side head. Will retorque both and see what happens. Thanks as always
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2007, 06:48 PM
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Thumbs down

I'm out there trying to retorque right now. They all click at 110 ft. lbs. I tried bumping it up to 115 as I've heard you can get brave and go about 5 over. They're not really turning any appreciable amount, enough that I feel it would stop a good drip of a leak. These are the ones in the valve body plus the two I can get to b/t the exhaust manifold ports.

It's getting dark out now, rain tomorrow. As it clears and I can further work on it during the week I'll try the bolt directly under the two center exhaust ports since that's where it's leaking. At this point it looks dire, I'm worried I'm going to have to pull the heads. Since it all has to come apart might as well do both.
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  #7  
Old 04-16-2007, 07:27 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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one of the head bolts ~supposedly~ needs thread sealant on it because it protrudes into a water jacket.i've NOT put thread sealant on them,and had no leaks.

however,the heads on these engines will crack on the corners,and weep coolant.make sure it is leaking from the center,it may be from a corner and running back.

if it is a corner crack,throw some silver solder or similiar radiator stop leak in it and drive it.
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  #8  
Old 04-16-2007, 08:30 PM
tyrodtom tyrodtom is offline
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The bottom head bolt, second from the front, left side (drivers side) goes into the waterjacket. I don't know if all AMC V8s are like this, but mine is.
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  #9  
Old 04-16-2007, 08:40 PM
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another place to look is the intake manifold on the upper passenger side, as well as at the rear CTO / heater hose connection on the intake. These can leak a lot of the time, but drip down along the head and make it look like a leak from the head. Not saying you don't also have a head leak, but the intake / cto locations are usually culprits.
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  #10  
Old 04-16-2007, 10:12 PM
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rreed rreed is offline
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Thumbs down

It is not rear heater hose connection (have checked several times by hand and w/ clean dry shop towel) but is on passenger side, dripping down from directly in the center of the passenger side head. Last I crawled underneath while the engine was running and dripping coolant it was coming from center of passenger side head, b/t block and head.

I did not pay really close enough attention to see if it was running down from upper passenger side intake. I have not seen any signs of coolant from there, I was focusing in pretty close to the center of the block on that side while watching it drip. As soon as the weather clears I'll try to take a close look w/ dental mirror and lighting to see if there are any signs along that path. I will say that I have not taken the exhaust manifold off yet to check those head bolts for tightness but for the handful under the valve cover (minus removing the rockers which I have not done yet) all checked clicked right away at 115 ft. lbs. and stopped at the same place after slightly loosening then retightening. There is still the one bolt directly under the two center exhaust ports that I haven't checked but for as tight as the rest have been I don't see how that will make any difference.

I will check closely for any signs of leaking around passenger front intake manifold as well as stab at removing exhaust manifold, possibly rockers, and just retorquing the entire head. It's a lot of work but worth a shot before removing the intake and heads completly. This sucks.
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  #11  
Old 04-16-2007, 11:22 PM
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Sorry to hear RReed, but this is a good time to say f* it and upgrade the intake, have the heads ported, and throw in a cam! Now, if you did those things already...hmmm I should just shut up.

I used ARP thread locker on most bolts and ARP thread sealer on the water jacket one(s) along with ARP head bolts (I hear head bolts cannot/should not be reused), so far so good!

As for the leak, I would also say check the intake first.
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