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  #1  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:52 AM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
350 Buick
 
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Cracked Brake Rotor

So I discovered this......

It is my front left brake rotor CRACKED IN 2 PLACES.

Anyone know of quality replacement rotors?

I want to avoid the cheap Chinese product.

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  #2  
Old 09-15-2018, 10:05 AM
440sixpack 440sixpack is offline
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Wow that's unusual.

Raybestos I think still makes them and most of the time they're domestic. if they aren't probably nobody does.
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  #3  
Old 09-15-2018, 11:03 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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i'll second Raybestos. even if it is chinese they do have at least a bit of a quality benchmark the parts need to meet.




change the caliper too! you have a a heat issue there,likely a sticking caliper.
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  #4  
Old 09-15-2018, 12:01 PM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
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wow i have never heard of that....that one has to hang on the wall of shame
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  #5  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:01 AM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
350 Buick
 
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Replacement difficulty level 5?

Do all of the studs need to be pressed out to separate the rotor from the hub?

Seems like a lot of parts. I'm certain I will lose some of them or brake something.

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  #6  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:03 AM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Engineers who put rotors behind the hubs make me very angry
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  #7  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:13 AM
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Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81 is offline
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Yes, the lug studs will need to be pressed out and pressed back in. I usually use a large hammer and punch to get them out and I usually replace them since they have over 30 years of fatigue on them. To reinstall, I have a lug stud installation tool from Lisle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22..._itMNBbB7H9X6Q
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  #8  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:20 AM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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Ain't that peachy.

Well at least I have the socket to remove the outer and inner lock nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81
Yes, the lug studs will need to be pressed out and pressed back in. I usually use a large hammer and punch to get them out and I usually replace them since they have over 30 years of fatigue on them. To reinstall, I have a lug stud installation tool from Lisle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22..._itMNBbB7H9X6Q
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:55 AM
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So after watching a few youtube videos, Should I punch out/loosen the studs prior to removing the hub and rotor assembly first?

Or is there enough clearance on the backside of the rotor that I can lay the hub and rotor assembly on the garage floor and knock them out.

I was surprised to realize that I have NEVER had to remove and replace front rotors before in 23 years of owning 3 different wags.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2018, 09:54 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is online now
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Pull rotors off and removed all bearings and seals, lay rotor and hub assembly with hub facing up on the concrete floor and use hammer and punch and drive studs out. Swap rotors and install new studs, best if you have access to a press, or I have used a couple of slightly oversized washers with plenty off good grease all over them and a lug nut backwards of a grade 8 fine thread nut and draw them on. I usually will line the studs up in the hubs with the grooves already cut in and slightly tap them in for alignment purposes. or you can go to Napa, Autozone or Oreillys and rent a stud installer or take rotors to a shop and have them pressed in.
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  #11  
Old 09-16-2018, 11:20 AM
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I recently replaced my rotors and found knocking the studs out was a breeze but pressing them back in - not so much.
I used the Lisle tool with Dorman lug studs 610-179 and found the tool barely left enough room to get the sacrificial lug nut on the stud.
I ended up ruining a couple of the studs and the spare lug nuts I used didn't fare much better.
In the end it worked okay but if you have a shop that can press them in that might be a better route.
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  #12  
Old 09-16-2018, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
change the caliper too! you have a a heat issue there,likely a sticking caliper.

Yes, a few years ago I was having brake issues with this caliper.
The piston would seize, the pads would drag, and stuff smelled hot.
Due to very limited personal time, I had this caliper and its pads replaced by a shop which no longer exists. I'm not going to make any assumptions or guesses. It is what it is. I'll probably have a local shop do the lug work for me. I'm no expert and work consumes my time. My goal is to have the work done with all new studded tires mounted on spare rims ready for this winter.

I'm sure this winter will be a doozy.....says Farmers Almanac.
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  #13  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:07 PM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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I was able to remove the outer locknut because I had the proper four prong socket tool.

Any idea how too remove the lock washer in the hub assembly?

It has machined holes around it. So I'm assuming there is a proper pronged socket tool for removing it.



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  #14  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:12 PM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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Never mind.

YouTube answered it for me.

Dismantling the Front Hub on a Dana 44 Axle - Bronco, Jeep, etc.
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  #15  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:24 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
 
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A pair of needle nose pliers is all you need to remove that lock washer. It's just a locating washer to keep the inner locknut in place.


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  #16  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:42 PM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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I thought for some reason it was threaded.
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2018, 08:45 PM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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I've got the hub assembly removed and loaded into the truck. I'll drop it off at the shop tomorrow.

Does anyone have the part numbers for the inner/outer bearings and cups?

Last edited by Driftwood : 09-16-2018 at 09:08 PM.
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2018, 09:16 PM
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SlowGear SlowGear is offline
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I have the NAPA part numbers if you are interested, for inner/outer cup and bearings but they are manufactured offshore.
Same was true of in-stock bearings and cups at the other local part stores.

Ended up going with the BJ's kit which are manufactured in US and included the seal.
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2018, 09:18 PM
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Driftwood Driftwood is offline
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Mike. Please post the part numbers.
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  #20  
Old 09-16-2018, 09:28 PM
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SlowGear SlowGear is offline
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Mine is an 88 but fairly certain the parts are applicable for 79.

Bearing - outer: LM501349VP
Bearing - inner: LM104949VP
Race - outer: LM501310VP
Race - inner: JLM104910
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