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  #21  
Old 04-20-2015, 04:10 PM
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Achilles Achilles is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 12, 2004
Location: Texas
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Wow, head liner board looks good. I wonder how it will hold up to the heat of the summer?
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MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
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Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2015, 04:58 AM
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Strode Strode is offline
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Looks really tight and nice....good job.
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  #23  
Old 04-21-2015, 03:15 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Dunno about the heat. Got noticeably more flexy in the sun. It's easy to bow it down in the center now but it pops back. Maybe the weight of the fabric will pull it down. Maybe the end trim pieces, center divider and lights will be enough to hold it up.

If necessary I figure I'll install pieces of 1" aluminum angle between the braces and run a strip of velcro down the middle. It can be had with 200 degree adhesive.
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  #24  
Old 05-04-2015, 05:08 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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One of my obstacles to finishing this project is: I want to do this but can’t until I do that but I can’t do that until I find one of those . . .

Too much thinking and planning and not enough doing.

So, how do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

One bite was the headliner board. The next is the tailgate. When it’s painted I’ll cut and buff it and the body and install it and the quarter windows. That shouldn’t hinder work on the interior too much.

Then the rear doors. When they’re done I should be ready to work on the AC and dash before the front doors.

So with that decided I made some progress.


So it looks like I started this in ’93 but there was no work between ’00 and ’12 when we were working on the current house and using the Dodge for camping. If anyone wants the bleached out trim or the aluminum next to the license for cost of shipping let me know.




If I’m going to pull a hinge off I drill a small hole. Gets it back in the ballpark on reassembly. Aluminum hinges but they are still tight.




Need to raise the window to get to the regulator.




Hook up a battery to the tan and brown wires and trigger the safety switch to move it. Plus to tan for up, brown for down. Be sure to support the glass as it comes out! And don’t forget to disconnect the defroster wires.




Need to position the holes in the gears over two of the regulator screws. Pop the clips off the regulator lift pins and pull the pins out of the slots in the lift bar and the glass comes out.




The standoffs are captive to make reassembly easier.




Couldn’t figure out how I bent the lift bar but turns out the glass has the same curve.




Any ideas on replacement sleeve? Needs to be flexible and take UV.




Then there’s this. The area is double walled and both are cracked though not in the same place. Going to install a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle in there to reinforce it.
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2015, 10:51 PM
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Achilles Achilles is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 12, 2004
Location: Texas
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We are tackling the same project. My tailgate is cracked in the same spot. I cant wait to see the fix. I am curious, how many stand off were attached to your regulator and where were they placed. I was almost done and found a problem with the regulator motor. Once I sort this all I will have left is to install the inner and outer swipes. You are making good progress.
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1983 Wagoneer Limeted, 169k 360 AMC, NP 229, 727,
MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmcfvYSDdeFJ-NHY1MA_9Iw
Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925
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  #26  
Old 05-05-2015, 06:08 AM
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Strode Strode is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Any ideas on replacement sleeve? Needs to be flexible and take UV.


On mine, I found some thin wide plastic material, kinda like vinyl baseboard material, but very thin. I made a flat sandwhich with the wires in the middle and wrapped it in vinyl tape. It needs to be thin enough to slide back and forth in the opening as the tailgate opens and closes. Mine seems to work well.

Thanks for posting pictures and updating your thread
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Last edited by Strode : 05-05-2015 at 06:11 AM.
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2015, 07:59 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Had a standoff on all six screws. Easy enough to make from some aluminum bar or even tubing.

Strode, so you didn't use tubing? I've got some heavy vinyl shower pan material. Wonder if it'll take the sun. Might open the hole up a bit for more wiggle room.
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  #28  
Old 05-05-2015, 11:11 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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The fix. Drill a buncha holes for plug welds to hold the 3/4" x 1/8” thick angle.



How to deburr the back side of the holes. Tried a small stone but it only lasted for three holes. Found a piloted c’sink in my box-o-bits and mounted it on the pin the stone broke off of.



Poke it through the hole, chuck it up and pull. Run the drill CCW for this.





Ready to install. The tailgate is galvanized. Sanded the outer surface but couldn’t do anything about the inner layers. The vertical leg of the angle is toward the front of the tailgate so it won’t interfere with the clips on the wipe.



Clamped and ready to weld. Couldn’t pull it up tight. TIG, MIG or gas?



I used TIG. Have to concentrate heat on the thick metal at the bottom to melt it without melting the other two layers too much. Gap between layers don’t help. MIG prolly would work but I’m not too good with it.



Not too happy with the results. The problem is the top of the tailgate is curved so I had to pull the angle up against the inner surface.

In doing this the vertical leg of the angle, being stiffer than the horizontal leg, bent less than the horizontal leg. This caused it to bow toward the front. At least I think this is what happened here. I thought it might happen but it looked ok before I welded it.




It’s plenty stiff now but I think I can straighten it. If not the center of the wipe might not touch but it's the inside. I can’t remember if it has a squeegee or just the felt. Still need to weld the crack itself. Only going to do the skin. No access for the inner layer.

If I were to do it again with angle I would bend it to shape first, making sure not to bow it. The elegant way is to heat small spots on the vertical leg. This causes localized shrinking that will pull it into an arc.
Or just do it by hand in the vise.

My first thought was 3/4" square tubing but I would have had to cut clearance holes for the wipe strip clips.

In hindsight, I should have used a piece of 3/4" x 1/8” bar I think it would have been plenty. Didn’t need to be 4’ long either.


Came across this guy when I was cleaning up. Pretty good size. The jack stand next to his head is about 1-3/4" wide.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #29  
Old 05-05-2015, 12:17 PM
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DieselSJ DieselSJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Came across this guy when I was cleaning up. Pretty good size. The jack stand next to his head is about 1-3/4" wide.

King snake. That is a keeper. They keep the rattlers away.
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  #30  
Old 05-06-2015, 12:59 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
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That's what I told my wife.

She wasn't happy when she found a 12" rattler in the planter and I took it down to the wash and let it go.
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  #31  
Old 05-18-2015, 03:20 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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After spending an inordinate amount of time fixing the bow I put into the inner side of the window opening I fixed the crack.



I don’t know how real welders do it but to keep from blowing away the edges I put in some material to run the bead out on.



Welded.




Finished.






While I had the Dremel out I opened up the hole for the tailgate lever. I had to work at it to get out so hopefully it will go back in easier without messing up the paint.






Tried removing the shelf paper but it was too far gone to peel off even with heat so I removed it and the paint with the heat gun and a scraper. Found this; must have been a pin hole in the vinyl.







Next was the holes for the aluminum trim. I was going to use filler but with the potential of the inside seeing moisture I decided to weld them.






There was some crinkly paint above the key so remove it and found this. Looks like the paint cracked and let water into the plastic filler.





In painting the body I found the factory spot welds to be a problem. Upset metal around them really messes you up when sanding even if you’re not looking for a perfect job. From now on every one of the buggers I find gets hit with the disc sander to knock it down to flush.






Treated the rust spot with Fertan. Next week I’ll see how it looks. Maybe break out the spot blaster.

Be gone to Mule Days next week but hope to have it painted the following weekend.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

Last edited by SJTD : 07-28-2015 at 09:23 AM.
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  #32  
Old 05-18-2015, 06:37 PM
Achilles's Avatar
Achilles Achilles is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: May 12, 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,149
Good to have a visual of how u fixed it. Thanks
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1983 Wagoneer Limeted, 169k 360 AMC, NP 229, 727,
MODS: 2003 Durango bucket seats:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=159286
YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmcfvYSDdeFJ-NHY1MA_9Iw
Build Thread: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=174925
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  #33  
Old 05-20-2015, 04:00 PM
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Carnuck Carnuck is offline
 
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Location: Gold Bar, WA
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Don't know if it was mentioned but the up/down wiring of the gate motor isn't the same for all years. Earlier ones grounded to the body and put power to either wire for up or down. Awesome stuff otherwise.
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  #34  
Old 06-01-2015, 04:15 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Didn't know about the early wiring. I wonder if the new system is better. Seems like it requires fancier switches.


Got some prep done and sore fingers from sanding the sides of the tailgate but no paint.


Treated the rust spot with metal etch. I think the brand is Krud Kutter. Had it already mixed so didn’t look at the bottle. I used to use Jasco but can’t find it anymore.

Squirt, let it sit, scrub with wire brush, work at the pits with a pick, repeat until clean.






Filled the welds. Bearing in mind that they are at the bottom of the tailgate on a DD I’m calling these good enough and ready for 2k spot putty to fill the 60 grit scratches before priming.



The dents above the key need more work. Three surfaces with a crease between two of them. Had something like this on the quarter panel that I never got right.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2015, 01:27 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Haven’t posted in a while but making some progress. Trying to keep up the posting really makes you appreciate the extra work some guys do with their threads.

Got the tailgate ready for paint. The white areas in this pic are actually galvanizing that I didn’t sand off. There was quite a bit of it that was corroded. Took those areas down to the steel and treated it with metal etch. That gives the steel the gold color.



Primed with epoxy and painted then shot Raptor on the interior.




While I was at it I shot the quarter window trim. This is what happens when you try to get the last bit of Raptor out of the gun. Going to need some sanding and another coat.




Wet sanded the exterior with 1500 and buffed it with McGuiars 105 on a wool pad. Still need to use the 205 on foam. Looks better than in person but it’s almost good enough as is. I have two things going for me where the paint’s concerned. It’s a light color and I’m not looking for show quality.



Of course I’d like a paint job like Strode’s but I don’t have the ambition to do it myself or the money to pay for it and I’d be hesitant to use the thing for its intended purpose.


Here’s a plant that sprouted under the kitchen window at the Lompoc place. Should I pot it for inside?
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #36  
Old 07-20-2015, 02:46 PM
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DarkMonohue DarkMonohue is offline
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Join Date: Jul 01, 2012
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The tailgate looks great!


Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Here’s a plant that sprouted under the kitchen window at the Lompoc place. Should I pot it for inside?
Totally. I'll bring over some Tecnu.
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  #37  
Old 07-27-2015, 10:39 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Since I don’t like the metal pin sliding in a slot design on the window lift; here’s something I’ve been working on when I should have been color sanding the body:






Installed on the tailgate regulator





An update on the Coroplast headliner. After several months installed without the interior lights or edge supports, stored in the insulated garage where it still gets pretty warm, the rear piece is sagging a little in the center.




The front section is not. Maybe because it fit a little tighter.




If I push up where the dome lights belong it takes out the sag so I think it will be fine once everything is put back in place.
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  #38  
Old 07-28-2015, 12:27 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
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Used 3M urethane seam sealer on the bottom seam



Put in some sound deadener/vibration dampener/CLD/whatever you want to call it on both front and back walls




This stuff



It's thick, 106 mil I think, and not as spensive as some of the big names. Pretty sure it's really butyl as advertised. Stuck my nose right in the bag when I opened it and could barely smell it and neither gas nor lacquer thinner dissolve it like they do asphalt.
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  #39  
Old 08-04-2015, 01:20 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Got the body color sanded. Seriously considered not sanding the whole roof and only doing the visible areas but I went for it; the peel was pretty bad up there.

Had to touch up a few places where the paint was a little thin. I’ll sand those on Friday and buff it out. Glad I used SS nonmetallic. Easy to repair.

When I was doing body work on this quarter panel it was really flimsy with the big hole for the filler so I welded the metal cup on the inside, stiffened it right up. Kick myself every time I see it that I didn’t put a drain at the bottom. The ID at the bottom was a place where I started to see gray so I resanded the area with 400 and gave it a few more coats. Have I mentioned I’m glad I used SS?



My ebay score. A buck plus $25 shipping. Felt bad so I sent the guy my minimum bid of $15 after I got it.



This is all I really wanted; the .48 area ratio turbine housing. This is supposed to wake up the SD33T motor by making the TC spin up quicker; boost comes on right off idle. Stock is .62.

Might have it ceramic coated if I can convince myself that a coating a few thousandths thick will make a difference and hold up. Anyone have experience with it?
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #40  
Old 08-04-2015, 01:56 PM
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DieselSJ DieselSJ is offline
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Location: QC, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD



My ebay score. A buck plus $25 shipping. Felt bad so I sent the guy my minimum bid of $15 after I got it.


Might have it ceramic coated if I can convince myself that a coating a few thousandths thick will make a difference and hold up. Anyone have experience with it?

I ceramic coated the exhaust housing in my TE06H. It really cut down on the underhood heat. I also did the inside and outside of my downpipe and my exhaust manifolds.
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-99 XJ Limited.
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