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  #21  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:49 PM
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Well, I finished rehab and Laura will let me work in the garage without supervision. So here is what I did last weekend (actually Sunday since I spent Saturday scrubbing the fuel tank and mat and trying to figure out how to tighten those two bolts inside the frame rail, more on that).


This is the mat I bought from one of our members before cleaning it.

Here is the mat after some serious scrubbing.
Now the tank.

And

Now for the kicker, this is what I enjoyed the most

Why yes, that is a 2006 5.3 L with the 4L60 mated to it sitting on the frame, with the gas tank and brake lines installed.

That gas tank install almost made me question my sanity. Those two inside frame bolts wore me out! I finally tapped the frame on one and got the other lock nut to tighten enough to be functional, so it's good.

As for the engine, it was easy, the Jeep n Pete motor mounts worked as easy and everyone says, once I figured out how to put them back together since I took them apart to paint them and put them together backwards. I only had to do them 2 times, the tank I'm not going to tell you how many times it went in and came back out before it worked.

Now any of you guys who have put a GM motor in a stock Jeep, anyone have a measurement to the bottom of the tranny where it hits the crossmember?
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:55 PM
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You go Robert!

Keep it up, enjoy every adventure even though some will throw you a curve ball!

Looking good Sir!
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

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  #23  
Old 10-12-2013, 05:32 PM
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Well this weekend was eventful in a couple of ways.

First I learned the NP241C from the 92-94 Suburban doesn't mate up to the '06 4L60E. So after looking on line and talking to a transmission guy I can go to the junk yard and find an adapter to mate them up. Thank you to this forum for that information.

However, I want to use the stock tank and the 241 adds too much length and puts the U-joint into the gas tank. The NP 208 is much shorter and with an adapter from AA it appears I can use the stock rear driveshaft and miss the tank. So I pulled the tranny to put the new 23 spline shaft into it when the adapter gets here.

Thanks to Rick Hill (aka Serehill) as I had told him he could have the 208 as a standby, just in case something went wrong with his T-case. He gave it back to me, so if anybody is in need of a 92-94 NP 241C let me know. I have one to get rid of.

I did have some fun though. I grabbed one of the old bodies and did a test fit with the 5.3 in place.



I think it looks right at home. So I checked for clearances and there is about an inch of clearance on the rider's side...



and about 1.5" on the drivers side.


However, I did notice that the stock exhaust pipe won't work. I hope the muffler man has a fix.



It is within 1/4" of the rail where it was cut off.

It is nice to start assembling things! I'm only a couple of years behind some of the Prissy members, but I'm moving. Heck, I may quit work so I can make better time. Wonder how Laura would feel about that?
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  #24  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:03 PM
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Looking good Robert!

Keep it up. How did it sit compared to original in height of the center line of the engine?
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

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  #25  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:13 PM
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The motor is sitting about an inch higher than the notes you gave me. I'm very happy with that. Once I get the T-case issue resolved I'll check the others, but it looks like it should be about right.
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  #26  
Old 10-12-2013, 06:24 PM
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Looking good sir! I ended up going full custom on the front half of the exhaust system, but I did hook it into the BJ's 3" exhaust system.
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  #27  
Old 10-12-2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moorman.robert
The motor is sitting about an inch higher than the notes you gave me. I'm very happy with that. Once I get the T-case issue resolved I'll check the others, but it looks like it should be about right.

That's what we wanted to hear!
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




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  #28  
Old 10-13-2013, 12:19 PM
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Wink exhaust manufolds

I'm useing 2002 camaro exhaust manifolds...they tuck in tighter to the block and the flanges don't kick out like the stock truck manifolds...next I'm going to try mounting camaro cats to my manifolds.
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  #29  
Old 10-13-2013, 02:53 PM
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SnowShoe, please let me know how that works.
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  #30  
Old 10-13-2013, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowShoe
I'm useing 2002 camero exhaust manifolds...thay tuck in tighter to the block and the flanges don't kick out like the stock truck manifolds...next I'm going to try mounting camero cats to my manifolds.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!


It's Camaro! C-a-m-a-r-o!

Ok, whew...
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  #31  
Old 10-13-2013, 06:58 PM
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Thank goodness for spell check by ProTouring442...whew.
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  #32  
Old 10-14-2013, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowShoe
Thank goodness for spell check by ProTouring442...whew.

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  #33  
Old 11-15-2013, 03:25 PM
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Well, I had the NOS body tub stored in a buddies warehouse. That is until my surgery last June 3rd. He decided that it needed to be wrapped in plastic and stored outside, without telling me! So today I went over and got the tub, took it to another warehouse and opened it up.

This is the way it was wrapped on the trailer I had to borrow to go get it.


Here it is with the original packing crate being removed.


And here it is sitting on the forks of the fork lift, with Richard as the ballast to balance it on the forks.


If you look closely at the last picture you will see some dark areas. That is where my NOS tub that had been warehouse stored since 1982 until June of this year has started rusting!!!! Now I admit that my buddy is not a car guy, but come on, setting it outside with plastic that lay on the top when it rained hard. Not that we get much rain in Houston.

Ok, I've vented enough, when they find my buddies body, I was NOT in town.

I took some sandpaper and sanded off a couple of spots of rust/primer and got to bare metal pretty easily. It will take a DA sander and probably some wire wheels to get the rust off down to all bare metal, but that is what will happen. No rust treat, just mechanical cleaning.

At this time I think I'm going with 2012 Dodge Durango maroon on the entire body, inside and out. I am going to have bed liner inside the wheel weels, and then shoot paint over it so the under body will be maroon, with the black chasis I've been working on. I think the bed liner in the wheel wells will reduce noise and protect better from road debris.

Then I think I'm going with a black dash pad, door panels, head liner and carpet. I am still thinking about the seats, do I go black seats or tan/sand color for some additional accent?

I am going to get the Cherokee vinyl trim for the outside to finish it up.

I don't have the skill to put together a photoship picture like MIB, but I think you can get the picture. What do you think? What about the seats?

Remember for the seats, I live in TEXAS, so the thought of black on the seats is really making me lean toward the tan/sand.
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  #34  
Old 11-15-2013, 03:40 PM
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Looking good Robert,

The rust will be very light, should not be a problem.

Yes get tan seats, we know you are kind of a hot Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley anyway... Sorry.

With your heat, I would go with a lighter color.

Nice work!
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

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  #35  
Old 11-15-2013, 04:52 PM
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Sorry that happened, Robert. But as WH said, it should be surface rust and come off easily. You might try the scotchbrite type pads on a DA too.

You engine and transmission transplant is coming along nicely. I find myself wishing I had gone that route, and I may still someday.

Keep working!
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  #36  
Old 11-15-2013, 05:21 PM
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That body tub is ruined... you're going to have to look for a new one. So you won't have to hassle with disposal of that one, I'll come pick it up for you, no charge of course.
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  #37  
Old 11-15-2013, 06:26 PM
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Thanks WH and Brad. ProTuring, well... while I appreciate the offer and I know it came from the heart, I will probably try it with a DA sander first. However, if it starts to look like Swiss Cheese I may give you a call. Just don't count on it.

If you couldn't tell, I am a little stoked that I get to start on the body. I am going to use a pro painter as that is one of the things my Dad didn't teach me and I don't even know how to mix paint. I do body work and enjoy it, can't say I enjoy sanding between coats of paint, but I can. So I got out the doors, NOS tailgate and hinges today for a fitting as soon as it is on the rotisserie.

Laura has the '12 maroon Durango and it has the tan seats with the black carpet. So I think I'm going to go with she's hot and that is why I'm going with the tan seats.

Thanks guys.
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  #38  
Old 11-16-2013, 10:39 AM
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Vent Window

What is the trick to getting the glass window out of the vent window frame. I have the vent window out on the work bench and I've been able to get the long end to move a little, but I don't want to mess it up by using too much force to try and get the glass out.

The vent window frame has the bolt on bottom that has rusted badly and looks like it will break if I touch it. So Ineed to get the glass out so I can try to replace the bolt.

I am also looking for a chromed vent window as a replacement since I'm not having much success removing the glass.

On a brigher note, after about an hour with the buffing wheel the long window channels are bright and shiny! Now when the parts and tool comes in I'll put them back together. I hope they go back together as easily as they came apart.
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  #39  
Old 11-16-2013, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moorman.robert
What is the trick to getting the glass window out of the vent window frame. I have the vent window out on the work bench and I've been able to get the long end to move a little, but I don't want to mess it up by using too much force to try and get the glass out.

The vent window frame has the bolt on bottom that has rusted badly and looks like it will break if I touch it. So Ineed to get the glass out so I can try to replace the bolt.

I am also looking for a chromed vent window as a replacement since I'm not having much success removing the glass.

On a brigher note, after about an hour with the buffing wheel the long window channels are bright and shiny! Now when the parts and tool comes in I'll put them back together. I hope they go back together as easily as they came apart.

Hello Robert,

The bolt that holds the lower part of the window frame is welded so to speak to the chrome channel, it is not normally replaceable.

It might be cleanable with a wire cup brush if you can get the wing glass out.
It is not mounted solid, it seems that there is a little play the way it is mounted to allow for the window to open.

If you want to get the wing glass window out, I used a pick set from NAPA, that had a 270 degree curved hook pick, you can drag it along the rubber seam and it will tear through the old rubber. I had to get a set of later GW wing glass frames from the Yard, and have them chromed. I found a couple, but they were as bad as mine, the later ones are powder coated. I cleaned them and took them to the chrome shop, it was pricy, but they looked great!

If you do decide to get a later wing glass, to remove it, you just need to drill out the top pivot, rivet, and remove the nut, washer and spring, and it will lift out.

Hope this helps Sir!
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Dad's J10, Honcho, 1980 Sport Side
Build http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=118144

https://picasaweb.google.com/113072766039246994279/JeepJ10Honcho

Herbina 1987 Grand Wagoneer




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  #40  
Old 11-16-2013, 11:44 AM
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I'd just get a new wing window, Robert.
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