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  #1  
Old 01-30-2019, 01:13 PM
coreyw454 coreyw454 is offline
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wiring second battery

Hey guys, I did some searching on this topic but I just want to make sure my plan is correct.

I want to add a second battery in my cargo area. I plan to put it on a selector switch like this....

https://www.starmarinedepot.com/perk...xoC1XYQAvD_BwE

So to wire this correctly do I run the cable from the starter solenoid to the selector switch and then to each positive battery terminal? Or is there a better way to do it? This is on an 89 GW with a 360.
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Old 01-30-2019, 02:19 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Whats your intended goal/needs? Just more elec reserve or isolation to use one batt for winching and saving the other for starting? The marine switch will work but not ideal. Do you really want two live pos 12v batt cables/connections inside the cab? I've run those on a commercial fishing boat controlling two battery banks (2 8D's ea. bank, total 4 8D's)) but the switch was in a well ventilated engine room and out of they way to avoid any wear/bumping/etc oopsies. On cars and trucks with dual batts, For winching etc I prefer a manual control panel of toggle switches and idiot lights and separate (I think 60A?) rebuildable relays (Prestolite from an auto elec shop) so I can choose which one gets power drawn from it and which is getting alt voltage/charge. A/B/Both. If you just want more total reserve capacity with dual batts, and don't have a need for choosing which batt gets the charge(isolator chooses the tired one) a battery isolator will work well for you. Just use a "quality" isolator. I've had good service from Ramsey isolators. The dsl pickups with factory stock duals batts I've had all used OEM isolators. And they work fine for normal use.
Keep researching according to your specific needs/goals. For daily driver normal use an isolator would be my 2nd choice for flexibility and it's also the cheapest/safest way to go.
On a side note: if you're going to run dual batts they both need to be "real close" to the same size/capacity and same age/condition.
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Old 01-30-2019, 04:32 PM
coreyw454 coreyw454 is offline
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joe. thanks for the response. the second battery would be used almost exclusively for winching.
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:23 PM
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Tripwire Tripwire is offline
hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
Join Date: Jul 30, 2000
Location: WA State
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me thinks that thats a helluva long cable run to the front for the winch... perhaps reverse the idea and run the rig from the rear battery?

I have duals in baby jeep - i cant say i have really ever needed that much capacity...... i guess it would be useful if you could not run the engine for some reason, perhaps the largest group battery you could cram under the hood is a viable solution?
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86 GrandWag. Howell fuel Injected 360. MSD Ignition + Dizzy. 727/228 BJ's 2" Lift and 31's

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Last edited by Tripwire : 01-30-2019 at 06:32 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-30-2019, 07:08 PM
coreyw454 coreyw454 is offline
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I have a winch in a cradle so I can use it front and rear. I am thinking maybe a better solution is just wire front and rear with quick connects and keep one battery. Something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074J2XTB5...a-23ec39d64fe3

I can always throw an extra battery in just in case we drain the other one.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:40 AM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Isolators like Joe was describing are a good idea.
The one problem with electric winches is the power draw is pretty high. Sure a battery can supply what is needed. The problem is recharge.

Standard automotive battery charging arrangements assume the battery is only mildly discharged. The regulator does not adjust for a battery that's been sucked low. This results in a high charging rate for a relatively long time. This is bad for the battery and hard on the wiring and alternator.

Let's say the regulator on your '90 is set for 14.2 Volts.
When a battery is really discharged, if supplied with power at 14.2 Volts it will easily pull 40 or 60 amps. The only limitation will be the alternator's ability to supply that. That's the saving grace of an older 'lower output' alternator. At idle it won't be able to supply that.

I haven't put these on flckr or my website yet but here's a photo sequence where you can see the how much current a moderately run down battery will draw at 14 Volts.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...ost-1972341430
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Old 01-31-2019, 12:12 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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If you have 2 batteries, you can also, when needed, wire them in series and do some trail stick welding.
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  #8  
Old 01-31-2019, 01:52 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Cory for wiring/simplicities sake the isolator should work ok for you. It "should" send the alt juice to the battery being drawn from. Nograin brings up a good point. You're alt isn't going to put out squat at idle speeds. You'll either need to up the eng RPM with a secondary throttle cable or have a bud hold the orig linkage at higher RPM's. You can lash up an aux throttle cable with a bicycle hand brake or such. I prefer using a vernier cable. Aka an aircraft type throttle cable. "Expensive" but avail from Napa. Offers fine-tune ideal control/settings for winches, welders, high current draw accessories.
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  #9  
Old 01-31-2019, 02:40 PM
coreyw454 coreyw454 is offline
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if the batteries were wired with a selector switch and placed on all wouldn't that help with the draw on the batteries to aid in preventing a severe discharge to just one battery?
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  #10  
Old 01-31-2019, 04:57 PM
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nograin nograin is offline
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What's the amperes at voltage info for this winch?

If the batteries were side by side, then yes the winch would draw on both equally. If they are seperated by some distance I don't know. Power always comes from the highest voltage source. When they are equal, then the one with the least resistance will provide the most current.

With the engine running, power will come from the alternator first because its the highest voltage power supply. When the winch draws more current than the alternator can supply at 14 Volts, voltage will drop. Around 12.5 Volts the battery will take over and it can provide lots of amps.

Yes. You could rev the motor a bit while the winch is running. Then when done with the winch, after the first 30 seconds or so, I'd drop the engine speed back down so the battery gets recharged at slow rate.

I think what is done with some RVs and work trucks is the second battery runs all the stuff and then its recharge is regulated. Review the plan with some folks who deal with second battery setups for RV (motor campers), work trucks, and such.

Another thing to watch for an '89 (if its like '86) the alternator output wire has a relatively small fusible link. The link is to protect against a battery short. It can handle high loads for a short period of time but then will start to get warm and deteriorate. If you can post what the winch will draw then there will be less guessing.
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no "wood" outside
My other car is a fish
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  #11  
Old 01-31-2019, 05:02 PM
coreyw454 coreyw454 is offline
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here is a link to the specs of my Winch...

http://mediacdn.shopatron.com/media/.../271369366.pdf
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  #12  
Old 02-10-2019, 01:48 PM
coreyw454 coreyw454 is offline
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bump to see if any one else wants to chime in on this
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2019, 02:43 PM
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Painless Battery Isolater

Corey .I put batterys side by side in factory spot. Isolater on fender well close to batterys . Has been no problem in 2 years drives every day . My primary battery has top and side post secondary has top post only . I am running power master 12si 120 amp alternator .All marine grade wire ..anchor 2ga. Wire lugs heat shrink and no lead battery terminals . Try to use batterys that have studs an nuts for multiple wires connections with side post two or you will run out of connection points .
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