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Old 10-04-2001, 09:02 PM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
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Here is the layout of all the variations of lifts combined to accommodate 31” thru 42” tires on various width rims ranging from 7” to 12” wide. This list is mainly derived from combinations that have or can be done to a Wagoneer or N/T Cherokee '74 models and up.

W/T and J Series pickups usually can use the same lift with one size bigger of a tire.

***If any variations are left out... please let me know by posting here and I will change it immediately...once your sugestion has been added to this list please delete your original post to keep the thread down in size... this can/may get big. THANKS****

31x10.50” Tires

Stock on 15x7” rims with slight rubbing
3” bodylift on 15x8” rims
2.5” AAL’s and 2” bodylift on 15x8” rims
3” suspension or 3” AAL’s and 3” bodylift on 15x10” rims *

32x11.50" Tires

Stock springs with AALx4, 2" blocks, 3" body lift on 15x8" rims. * Rubs on the leading edge of rear wheel well. (Proven by irbob's 83 Brougham.)

33x9.50” Tires

Stock springs with 2" rear blocks on 15x8" rims ** (proven by Bob Barry's N/T)

33x12.50” Tires

4" suspension gain by using '78 main leaf with the ends cut off under the stock main , Rancho 2.5" AAL's and 2 extra leaves from 78 in frt spring pack with a 3" body lifton 15x10" rims* (Proven by Jeepbob)

3" suspension on 15x8" rims *(proven by Adamstrator)
4" suspension on 15x8" rims* (proven by Veepster)
4” suspension and 2” bodylift on 15x8” rims
4” suspension and 3” bodylift on 15x10” rims *

6” suspension on 15x8” rims
6” suspension and 2” bodylift on 15x10” rims
Spring-Over-Axle conversion on 15x8” rims
Spring-Over-Axle conversion and 2” bodylift on 15x8" rims
Spring-Over-Axle conversion and 3" bodylift on 15x10" rims
Spring-Over-Axle conversion and 2.5” AAL’s on 15x10” rims

35x12.50” Tires

W/T - 6" rear suspension and 4" front suspension on 15x10" rims (proven by Sitting Bull)
W/T - 4" suspension 3" bodylift on 15x10" or 15x12" rims (proven by GM Killer)

4" suspension with 3" bodylift **
4" suspension with ext. shackles on 15x10" rims **

6” suspension and 3” bodylift on 15x8” rims
Spring-Over-Axle conversion and 2.5” AAL’s with 3” bodylift on 15x10” rims.. 8" rims will fit with either the 2.5: AAL's or the 3" bodylift

35x14.50" Tires

W/T - 4" suspension and 1" ext shackles* (Proven byJose Russel)

38x14.50” Tires

4” suspension, SOA and 3” bodylift on 15x10” or 15x12” rims *(\proven by River Beast)

6” suspension and SOA on 15x10” or 15x12” rims *

42” Tires

6” suspension, SOA and 3” bodylift on 15x10” or 15x12” rims *

NOTES

* Some minor trimming may be required - up to 2"
** Major trimming required - 3" or better

[ October 15, 2001: Message edited by: River Beast ]

[ December 17, 2004, 03:41 PM: Message edited by: River Beast ]
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Old 10-05-2001, 01:00 AM
Sitting Bull Sitting Bull is offline
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That's some great info, awesome idea RB!
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Old 10-05-2001, 05:48 AM
Scott Scott is offline
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I do know that 33's with a 4" suspension lift and a 3" body lift will rub the leading edge of the fenderwells in the rear if they are on 10" wheels (when stuffed up into the wheelwells). I have the carved tire tread to prove it [img]smile.gif[/img] .

[ October 05, 2001: Message edited by: Iron Monkey ]
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Old 10-05-2001, 05:55 AM
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With trimming, you can fit 33" tires on a 3" (RC) lift. I did this for a long time with no rubbing, and that was even on a WT rear end (on a Wag). Oh, thats 8" wheels btw.
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Old 10-05-2001, 06:27 AM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Bob Barry:
For 33"x9.5" tires on a NT wagon, add:

stock springs, 2" rear block and trimming wheelwells 3" to edge of factory wheelwell outline.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

What rims Bob..... 15x8's or 15x10's?

thanks.
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Old 10-05-2001, 08:07 AM
Veepster Veepster is offline
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hey Todd............mine is with 4" suspension and 3" body and absolutely NO trimming.........w/o the 3" body it rubbed BAD and would have needed trimming..

[ October 05, 2001: Message edited by: Veepster ]
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Old 10-05-2001, 08:39 AM
River Beast River Beast is offline
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Veepster:
hey Todd............mine is with 4" suspension and 3" body and absolutely NO trimming.........w/o the 3" body it rubbed BAD and would have needed trimming..

[ October 05, 2001: Message edited by: Veepster ]
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Bart,

I know...that's why I put that it needs trimming w/o the bodylift...you told me it rubbed without it.
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Old 10-05-2001, 08:42 AM
Sitting Bull Sitting Bull is offline
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I have a WT, with 4" in the front and 6" in the rear with 35x12.50's. Works great, articulates well and looks "in balance".
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Old 10-05-2001, 10:03 AM
Veepster Veepster is offline
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I got ya Todd...........I misunderstood the post, thought you were stating my current setup..
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Old 10-05-2001, 10:09 AM
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With the 35's you can use either 15x10's or 15x8's. If you use the 15x10's then you need to have the rear flipped shakle or make sure you have a good off set on your rear wheels or they will rub. If you use the 15x8's then they will not rub at all and you can use blocks.
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Old 10-05-2001, 06:05 PM
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For the early Wag guys (pre 74)
rear shackle flip (real easy to do on the old rigs) and 2 extra leaves in rear spring pack.
78 main leaf with the ends cut off under the stock main then a rancho 2.5" aal and 2 extra leaves from 78 in frt spring pack gives 4" suspension lift.
And a 3" body lift clears 33x12.50's on 10" rims with minor trimming on the frt of the rear openings and minor rubbing upon full stuff (like a hard landing)in frt.
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Old 10-05-2001, 06:08 PM
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32x11.5" tires

Stock springs with AALx4, 2" blocks, 3" body lift on 15x8" rims. Rubbs on the leading edge of rear wheel well. (Proven by: irbob's 83 Brougham.)

[ October 06, 2001: Message edited by: irbob ]
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Old 10-06-2001, 09:46 AM
Snakeyes_Tx Snakeyes_Tx is offline
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Have any of you guys thought about taking a stock set of springs, and cutting the eyelets off a *second* set of stock springs and just sticking leaf to leaf? Like this

Main
Maincut
second
second
third
third
fourth
fourth
fifth
fifth
sixth
sixth
stubby 7th
stubby 7th

and for the rear the same way.

What kinda height would you get out of that? Since they're soft springs, I'm sure that wouldn't effect ride quality all THAT much. Where do you get new LONG spring pack bolts too??
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Old 10-07-2001, 11:04 AM
jasonthomasfrance jasonthomasfrance is offline
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Question

Question about:
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>33x12.50” Tires
3" suspension on 15x8" rims *(proven by Adamstrator)
4" suspension on 15x8" rims* (proven by Veepster)
4” suspension and 2” bodylift on 15x8” rims
4” suspension and 3” bodylift on 15x10” rims *
* Some minor trimming may be required - 2"
** Major trimming required - 3" or better
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have a 4" suspension lift, installed. I also have a 3" body lift I will be putting on. Will the 33x12.50 on 15x8 rims rub only during lots of flex without trimming? I.E. Do I need to trim right away, or can I hold off if I will be just street driving?

Also what needs to be trimmed? Both the front and the back? Does ayone have pictures?

I have stock rims on my 76 Wagoneer. Those are 15x7" right? So I need to get new rims if I want 33x12.50 tires?
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Old 10-08-2001, 09:54 AM
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I would like to add a little info about my buddies 82 NT Cherokee. He has a Superlift 4 inch lift with 3/4 inch longer shackles on running 35x12.50x15 (Dunlop Mud Rovers) on 15x10 in wheels. He also trimmed the fenders. He trimmed the front and rear fenders following the line of the mini fender flare thats is built into the fender design. This accounts for about 2 to 2.5 inches of total trimming. He has no rubbing at all during extreme atriculation. He does rub on his front springs during tight turns. I'm not trying to discredit or counter any information provided here because the info presented is right on and correct. I just want to let you guys know that it is possible to effectivly run 35's on narrow track vehicles.
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Old 10-08-2001, 09:59 AM
Joe J-Truck Joe J-Truck is offline
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I'm running 35" 14.5 wide tires on 15x10 rims on my 82 j10. I used the rough country lift kit (rear blocks) with modified (squeezed in a vice) cj 1" lift front spring shackles. I used a jigsaw to trim approx. 1.5" off the fenders and then rolled back the lip with the flat 3" wide style vice grips. The result is a no rubbing with big tires and less lift, providing more stability. The fenders look almost factory.
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Old 10-08-2001, 05:40 PM
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Snake,
That is basically what I did with my spring packs on the 65. The problem comes in the frt with a spring under. Unless you get a lot of arch from the added leaves you will hit a point where the thickness of the added leaves will start to subtract from the lift. I used the 78 main under the 65 main to get the rig back up to stock height (it actually went a little higher)as the early rigs suffer from a lot more Wag sag than the later ones. I used the Rancho AAL to gain the needed lift and then selected other leaves to bring the lift up to 4 inches. By using the extra leaves in the rear with the shackle flip, I gained both the desired lift (actually 5") and a decent ride by not getting the spring too stiff. When you add leaves you also add stiffness and the stiffer the spring the harsher th ride.
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Old 10-09-2001, 03:28 PM
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another angle..

for thoses with pre 74s u can use wrangler lift kits, well...just the springs..and cut the bushing eyes off the wrangler springs and bolt them up to ur OE main leaf. removeing all other leafs from ur OE packs.

this can work cuz of the wranglers 2.5" wide springs and the fact that no-1 makes kits for the pre 74s...

im using SOA and 3" bod lift with 33s on 15x8s. i rub the front springs at lock and the INNER fender well of the rear in the middle.

[ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kenall ]
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Old 10-09-2001, 03:59 PM
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Ken,
Are the wrangler lift springs heavy enough for a V8 Wag?
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Old 10-09-2001, 04:38 PM
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Heck, if your going to buy a Wrangler lift kit, you might as well get 4" custom springs made like I did for my '73. IMO, you cant beat $115 a spring. Well, maybe some people can...

[ October 09, 2001: Message edited by: RustyJeep ]
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