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  #21  
Old 05-05-2018, 02:40 PM
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MSD is the way to go. I have installed 2 sets myself.
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88 GW, 401/727/208, 5" lift, D44s/4.10s/locked up, 35s and a few Evil Twin mods, http://eviltwinfab.com and a few TT's Fabworks mods, http://www.ttsfabworks.com
76 401 Wag, 77 401 Wag, 77 401 J20
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  #22  
Old 05-06-2018, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
msd gears are (were?) made by the same company that made the OEM,i was told by randy at PAS years ago.

It's possible. They don't look like OEM gears to me but, my eyes are getting old...
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  #23  
Old 05-10-2018, 04:00 PM
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For what it's worth, I had MSD gears in the first 401 I built way back in 2007 and they worked just fine. Keep up the good work Rick!
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1983 Cherokee WT - IFS, trailing arm rear, full cage, Hemi, 6 speed, turbocharged - Autocross project
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  #24  
Old 05-31-2018, 07:05 PM
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Progress: I round up all of the right size bolts for the water pump and timing cover before I get everything all RTV'd up. I coat both sides of the gasket and install the water pump to the cover first with the bolts just snug - not tightened all the way.
IMG_4623 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


Then I coat the side of the gasket that faces the block first then stick it to the block taking careful care by cleaning out any RTV that is in the oil passages..
IMG_4624 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


Then I coat the back side of the timing cover again cleaning any RTV out of the oil passages.
IMG_4625 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


I torque the timing cover bolts about 2/3 tight and then trim the excess gasket material at the block. The nextday I final torque all of the bolts.
IMG_4626 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

Last edited by SC/397 : 06-04-2018 at 07:35 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-06-2018, 04:09 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Location: Camarillo, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC/397
What coating is that on the block? I assume it's a primer...?
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  #26  
Old 06-13-2018, 03:40 PM
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  #27  
Old 06-13-2018, 03:45 PM
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It is Zinc Chromate Primer that I get at NAPA.


Here is a photo of the oil pick-up screen. I use a 1/4-20 x 3/8" long bolt and nut and Loctite them together to use as a button.

IMG_0115 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


I make sure that the oil pick-up screen is located in the right position and test fit the oil pan without a gasket. If it fits without a gasket there are no problems.
IMG_0113 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

Last edited by SC/397 : 07-15-2018 at 03:03 PM.
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  #28  
Old 06-14-2018, 07:40 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC/397
It is Zinc Chromate Primer that I get at NAPA.

I hope you use good protection equipment when using that!
Zinc chromate is some NASTY stuff, aerosol particles get all over place.
Hope you don’t have a dog or kids that could get exposed to particles.

I still believe that all the crap my dad was exposed to as an airline mechanic killed him courtesy of lung cancer. Zinc chromate is used a lot on planes.
He’s not the only mechanic to retire and then die from cancer.
I know of 2 others he was close friends with.

I also went to school for auto body and got extensive training on hazards of paints/chemicals. Some things are deadly, and gotta protect yourself(properly) from them. I always cringe when I see guys spraying w/o respirator or wearing just a dust mask.

Anyway rant over, awesone engine build as usual.
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  #29  
Old 07-02-2018, 05:43 AM
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Now that I am retired, maybe I can get caught up on engine building.


Block all together, got his fancy brass core plugs in full display, and now ready for the push rods, rocker arms and intake.
IMG_0039 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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  #30  
Old 07-03-2018, 06:28 PM
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Progress: SCP 1097 BL- I have use quite a few sets of these Scorpion roller rocker arms. These are a direct replacement for the bridged rocker system.
IMG_0043 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


To get the correct lifter pre-load (.040" +-.010" in this case) you can either shim the rocker pedestals or install the correct length push rods. Normally with these rocker arms I use a push rod that is somewhere between 8.200" to 8.300". In this case it fell right in the middle at 8.250".
IMG_0044 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


Priming the oil pump.
IMG_0045 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


I rotate the crank in about 1/4 increments and run the pump. I make sure that all the lifters are pumped up and that all the rocker arms get oil.
IMG_0046 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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  #31  
Old 07-07-2018, 02:21 PM
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Very nice write up Rick!
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Cherokee Chief Laredo, 360 cui, selec trac, black, 12/1982

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  #32  
Old 07-07-2018, 05:11 PM
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Thanks Markus!


We are installing the Air Gap intake on this one. I always use the steel vally pan gasket and the baffle plate under the PCV valve. I cut a chunk of Scotchbrite pad to go between the PCV valve and baffle plate.
IMG_0047 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
IMG_0048 by Rick Jones, on Flickr.


She s just about ready to start!.... Except for the fact that I have to finish a 390 first.
IMG_0053 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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  #33  
Old 07-07-2018, 05:32 PM
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I notice the rubber gasket under the end of the manifold. I used them the last 2 times I did a manifold but I hear lots of people say to trash those and just use a thick bead of sealant. Your thoughts?
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  #34  
Old 07-07-2018, 07:05 PM
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I always use the end seals. I use a punch and knurl the block where the seals seat and I cut about half of the tits off. Key things to do are clean the block where the rubber dowels go with a drill bit and use RTV only at the corners. If you get RTV anywhere else the seals will squirt out.
102_2936 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
004 by Rick Jones, on Flickr

Last edited by SC/397 : 07-08-2018 at 09:13 AM.
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  #35  
Old 07-08-2018, 05:07 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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to each there own, I always use rtv on the ends, no wrong way to it though
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  #36  
Old 07-14-2018, 11:36 AM
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I really don't like the RTV in place of the gasket. Here is one that someone did and now I have to try to clean it all off with a razor blade. Not a easy thing to do and a hour or so that I don't want to spend.
IMG_0111 by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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  #37  
Old 07-14-2018, 11:56 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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I understand but I don't like oil leaks either or slipped rubber end seals, what ever works is good, fire that motor up already!
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  #38  
Old 07-14-2018, 01:46 PM
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I have never had a problem with leaks or the seals slipping out. I can't fire the stroker until I get a 390 put together, started, and broke in. I have to multitask with 2 different machinists now to keep things moving forward. Machinist 1 still has a 360 and a 390 to finish for me before I can take 2 more 383 stroker projects to him. Machinist 2 has a 343 ready for me and I need to take him a 360 and 290 to machine up after that. Somewhere in all of that I need to build a couple of 401's and a 427 stroker. I should be caught up in about 10 years I figure...

Last edited by SC/397 : 07-14-2018 at 02:16 PM.
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  #39  
Old 07-14-2018, 05:01 PM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
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sounds familiar.
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  #40  
Old 07-15-2018, 03:11 PM
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NEVER buy one of these gasket kits. This one was supplied to me for a 390 build. The very first two gaskets that I took out of the package doesn't fit. The rear main seal is too small by like a 1/4" and the vibration damper seal is small by -.010". There is no press fit and you could shove it out by hand.
IMG_0052 by Rick Jones, on Flickr


The Fel-Pro gaskets are still the best and most complete.
IMG_0116(1) by Rick Jones, on Flickr
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