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Old 09-24-2022, 03:08 PM
warmblood58 warmblood58 is offline
232 I6
Join Date: Jul 27, 2022
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 124
1988 Firewall Connector Help - How to remove?

Hi All, I need to pull the two large connectors at the driver's side firewall (bulkhead connector) in order to both clean/detail wrap that wiring and to lay it aside so I can paint the brake booster without a mess of wires in the way - do I remove that little center bolt? Does it require both unclipping side and top plastic and removing that center bolt to completely remove? Help!
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Old 09-24-2022, 03:56 PM
warmblood58 warmblood58 is offline
232 I6
Join Date: Jul 27, 2022
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 124
Found it, it only requires the little center bolt to disconnect - but there are these plastic clips - maybe an inner block connected to both bulkhead and outer connection plugs? either way, need to detail this important connection -electronic cleaner, dielectric grease, etc -
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Old 09-30-2022, 09:18 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 11,674
What do you want to do here? You can buy the plastic loom and repair any that's damaged or missing. Parts Express has the loom fairly cheap, and Del City sells the loom and the corners/branches. There's no need to clean the inside of the connectors, unless you remove individual wires and need to replace them. Even then, you may do more harm cleaning than any benefit. To clean the outside of the connectors, use a plastic-safe contact cleaner in a spray can. Whatever you use, carefully test it on the plastic to make sure it does no harm.

I would mention - the dirt and oil under the hood doesn't really hurt anything. Suggest you don't get carried away and damage something for aesthetic reasons.

Not certain about an '88 or later, but the bulkhead connectors I've seen are a part with the fuse panel on the inside of the firewall. You can take the whole fuse panel loose with some long socket-head screws and remove the whole wiring harness from under the dash. I don't think you can easily separate the interior bulkhead connector from the fuse panel.
Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 09-30-2022 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 10-01-2022, 07:32 PM
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nograin nograin is offline
304 AMC
Join Date: Dec 19, 2000
Location: Philadelphia, Pa., USA
Posts: 2,175
Tim has good advice here.
I've looked at the connector and the diagrams on my '85. The big connections are the alternator and the battery feeds. They use a wider blade than the typical Packard 56. I beleive they are a packard 59 - same as headlight connectors except for the wire size. I have not seen 56 or 59 terminals for 10 gage wire, although obviously at one time they were in production.

Now your '88 has a different wiring strategy. Instead of two large feeds into a mainsplice under the dash, the alternator and battery feeds joined at the starter solenoid. One advantage of this is smaller feeds in through the firewall connector. A disadvantage is that the alternator and each circuit feed has a fusible link. Those and the additional small connectors can add up to some voltage loss in each circuit.
'85 Grand Wagoneer
360 727auto, NP229
body by beer (PO)
carries wood inside
no "wood" outside
My other car is a fish
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