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Old 02-11-2013, 07:32 AM
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Iceman0502 Iceman0502 is offline
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Heater Options

So with everyone putting a Cummins it is a know fact that the stock heater box gets in the way of the turbo downpipe. So what solution is everyone doing to get heat.

I had a couple of ideas that I wanted to shoot out there and see what the easiest, cheapest, and best solution there is (Its hard to get all three of these items). Also I want to retain the factory look or close too it.

1 - Simple way, Just buy a under dash unit from vintage air for $500-700 and a controller for $50-200. Replace the current factory underdash AC, cover the holes in the firewall.

Is there a way to use the factory controls on a vintage air unit like the Super Cooler or Magnum?

2 - Make a custom heater box. Can one be fabricated from sheet metal or even fiberglass and what is the best design. Do you need to have the temperature cable hooked up to a blend door? Or can all the air always flow through the heater core and hook the temperature cable up to a inline heater control valve.
Would the heater valve be sufficient enough to stop or reduce the heat comming into the cab? Or would it be full heat or no heat.

Im not that familar with the heater control valves regarding the amount of heat in the core. I know they are usually completely closed for the max AC and open for heat functions.

What have you done on your truck?
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:06 AM
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I went with a Danhard heater
(similiar to one of these http://www.danhard.com/revised%20cat...aters/htr1.pdf)

...and mounted it behind the old speaker area under the dashboard. It left enough room that I can make a glovebox through the speaker opening.

Danhard
http://www.danhard.com/

I blocked off all the old openings in the firewall and the heater will get it's air from passenger feet air sidewall opening.

I also got rid of all the old vacuum controls and will control everything with cables with rotary controls.

My system is pretty much remade completely because I had the firewall notch to deal with, also. Not simple, but you may get some ideas.

These are the posts in my build thread that show some info about what I did 118, 120, 182, 188.
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"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290

Last edited by Resbum : 02-11-2013 at 08:09 AM.
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  #3  
Old 02-11-2013, 08:37 AM
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Resbum,

Do you plan on installing any AC. I know your up in WA and its a little cooler than NY, but I would still like to keep some AC in there. I will look through the Danhard site.

I also found http://www.nostalgicairparts.com. I have to spend some time looking. I wondering if a underdash unit would work better than an Indash unit.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:32 PM
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I rigged the stock heater core with the factory fan and put it inside the firewall. The fan sucks air through the heater core and blows it towards the driver. LOTS of BTUs.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:09 AM
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Eugene 1 Eugene 1 is offline
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we are going to notch the factory metal box
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:18 PM
Mudbull Mudbull is offline
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I plan on making a custom aluminum one to house all the components from the donor truck...cable controlled door for heat/ac electrical control stuff from the donor
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceman0502
Resbum,

Do you plan on installing any AC. I know your up in WA and its a little cooler than NY, but I would still like to keep some AC in there. I will look through the Danhard site.

I also found http://www.nostalgicairparts.com. I have to spend some time looking. I wondering if a underdash unit would work better than an Indash unit.
I decided not to go with AC. However, with my setup there would be room for the components. There's about 2" between the radiator and intercooler, where I put the oil and trans coolers. There's also A TON of space behind the old speaker, once all the old heater plumbing is removed.

Yes, take lots of time looking! I've literally spent full days just standing in the shop looking, thinking, and taking an occasional measurement. I wouldn't get one thing done physically, but I'd get tons done in my head. That's saved me several times from losing three days doing something, then going back and undoing because it wouldn't work
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Resbum
"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290

Last edited by Resbum : 02-13-2013 at 07:28 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02-12-2013, 08:56 PM
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I was going to use on of the units the hotrodders use. There are a ton of them out there. Read them and decide which one is best for you.

Vintage air is probably one of the more expensive ones. There are cheaper alternates.
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2013, 04:07 AM
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My plan is to chop and modify the blower and heater core housings as much as possible to shift it towards the passenger side as far as possible in an attempt to keep the factory controller setup. I should know how that will go in a few weeks...
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  #10  
Old 02-13-2013, 08:44 AM
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I am in the midst of taking an xj a/c & heater out and mocking it up to see how well it will fit or if it will be doable.
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2013, 08:59 AM
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If I was just looking for heat, I would look for a 67-73 F series heat box. No vacuum lines only push pull cables and IIRC only the motor protrudes into the engine compartment.
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Old 02-13-2013, 02:01 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepmj_tj
I am in the midst of taking an xj a/c & heater out and mocking it up to see how well it will fit or if it will be doable.

Any pichers of the box?

I'm looking for ideas. Not a space thing, I just want to get rid of the separate heat and A/c.
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2013, 01:21 PM
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Just an idea for you guys that are looking to add Air conditioning or both Air conditioning and Heat as one package I would check out

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...em-p-4321.html

They have many different models to choose from to fit your needs and to me everything seems very reasonably priced for everything being brand new. I haven't bought from them yet but most definitely will be once I get up to that stage in the game with my restorations.

-Nick
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2013, 02:06 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Odds of finding one in the rust belt are prolly slim in 2013. I've used in cab heater boxes from trucks back from the when heaters were option days.Pre-60's. Basically a tin box that mounted to the tranny tunnel under the dash. They housed a core and a 6v fan motor. The box had flip up doors (think gas cap access doors). One on each side, pass/driver and one in front with a couple tin hose connections on top for defrost. These were all 6v systems so you'll need to swap a 12v motor or build a resistor to drop 12v to 6v. Guy that used to build my resistors used a piece of clothes drier element coil. You could easily fab an alum or tin box, buy a correct fitting heater core, new fan etc. Done this on a few trucks with no heaters. My favorite donors were early IHC trucks, the units were large and a nice enamel finish. Even added one to behind the seats on an FJ40 Landcruiser for rear compartment heat. Won't win you any "pretty points" at your local car show but works well if heat/defrost is more important than rebadged bowling trophies.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:46 AM
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Iceman0502 Iceman0502 is offline
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Thanks guys for all the responses.

I remember high school chemistry phrase KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)

I'm going to attempt in the next couple of weeks to make a new box to house the heater core from sheet metal. The air will flow from the factory blower straight through the heater core then through the firewall.

Anyone every use a cable operated heater control valve? I believe toyotas and hondas use them connected to the inlet side of the heater core and it restricts the amount of coolant into the heater core. This should allow fresh air to flow through the heater core when it is cold (or no water flow) and this should allow the inside temp control work like normal.

The stock underdash AC unit should always have cold air and the blower fan controls how much cold air is being blown out. There is no real temp control for the AC.

This dual climate control is actually confusing when you start thinking about it
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:09 AM
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Arghhh!!! I've spent a half hour looking for the site I bought my parts from. In fabricating my whole system from scratch I decided to go with all rotary cable controls similiar to this one, but not as much $$$$
http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?pt=54-059

How it was installed in a kit plane
http://www.rv7blog.com/2009/04/12/heat-control-knob/

Another idea that I originally wanted to use, but couldn't find a retail source
http://www.cablecraft.com/products_c...ndustrial.html

In looking around this morning I found this company, but it looks like they're in Europe. Neat products though.
http://www.siroco.fr/categorie/3-acc...es.htm?lang=en


It takes some creative choice of words, but google searches turn up some cool stuff for our environmental control needs.
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"What year is my truck?... Which part?" Build thread- http://www.fsjnetwork.com/forum/view...p=18290#p18290
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:36 PM
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loosewrenchcowboy loosewrenchcowboy is offline
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heater

To carry joes comments a little futher-if all u want is heat for cheap, check pre 1980 motorhomes. There are usually 2 small heaters under the dash, one on each side. I've used over a dozen of em on old military trucks. They look just like the Mojave Heater they sell at the jeeps restoration stores. About 10x10x14 inches. Its just a box with aheater core and blower motorbuilt in.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:12 PM
Swampfox89 Swampfox89 is offline
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I pulled my 12v from a L7000, it has an industrial manifold on it. It puts the turbo between 4 and 5 and faces the flange down. It all clears the heater box.







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Old 02-18-2013, 10:16 PM
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Thanks. Nice pictures
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