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Old 03-07-2007, 05:40 PM
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jpsterluvr jpsterluvr is offline
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Question Electric Seat Help??

The front pass seat on my 89 gw will only move forward not reverse, so unless your 5'1 the passenger will be in the dash.....please help??
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1989 TFI, K&N, BJ's 6" lift kit with pro comp shocks and drop pitman arm, Quick disconnect sway bar links, Turbo muffler and high flow cat with new exhaust from the y-pipe back, Rebuilt tranny

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Old 03-07-2007, 05:45 PM
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tazzerzz tazzerzz is offline
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Check your control switches on the side of your seat, mine died the other day on the drivers side and started smoking, I think you can swap the right for the left and so on.
This would atleast confirm the switch if it was bad
Lou
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:22 PM
Santa Claus Santa Claus is offline
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Try using a liberal amount of electrical contact cleaner sprayed into the switch while moving it to all positions. Worked on a set I just bought out of the P&P.
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Old 03-07-2007, 11:28 PM
johnwaynejeep2
 
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You can also run 12v directly to the motor to find the condition of the motor itself. There is actually 3 seperate motors bolted in like a brick under the seat that control it. If you can find the one that went out you can simply replace it with a junkyard donor. All the motors are fed with a single 2 pin power plug under the seat. If you find the motor is good the only thing left is the switches or a something binding under the seat. Do yourself a favor and take the seat out to test it. Much easier then trying to fenangle with wires and test leads and ratchets under the seat.
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:02 PM
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jpsterluvr jpsterluvr is offline
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how do you get the plug with all the wires off the switch??
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1989 TFI, K&N, BJ's 6" lift kit with pro comp shocks and drop pitman arm, Quick disconnect sway bar links, Turbo muffler and high flow cat with new exhaust from the y-pipe back, Rebuilt tranny

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Old 03-10-2007, 08:18 AM
Gilgar Gilgar is offline
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If I recall correctly, the plug has a tab on one side that has to be bent up in order to get the two parts to release. Using a small screwdriver to wedge under the tab worked for me. I found it easier to take all of the mounting bolts/nuts off the seat first. Then you can tilt the seat back and easily access the wires/plug to get it apart without having to contort your arms for leverage.
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'89 GW, Skyjacker 4" lift w/nitros, 33" BFG MT's, and ARB air lockers.
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  #7  
Old 03-10-2007, 11:04 PM
johnwaynejeep2
 
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What gilgar said is right on. Something else though, these connectors will get real sticky over time. push and pull the connectors together and apart. Even if it feels like they're not moving, this has the same effect as heating and cooling a stuck bolt to break the corrosion. Do that a couple times then try the screwdriver/tab and pull like hell. try to avoid breaking the tab off with the screwdriver, but if you do, it's not the end of the world. These connectors should stay in place without the tab if not fiddled with too much.
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