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Today was nice and cool instead of the 98 degree heat we have been having.. so a good day to crawl around under the Jeep.
This led to me changing all the output yokes [ well 3 of the 4 ] to new ones that will work with a Carden joint. Of course, I had to test fit the front and rear driveshafts as well.
First, the rear axle .. Standard SJ 44 .. One of the few times i use a 2 jaw puller! Remember, I now have a Carden joint at BOTH ends of the rear driveshaft.
{ Sorry in advance for the crappy pics.. the light from outside washed them out }
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Love these cordless impacts !
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Next up .. The Dana 300 front and rear yokes...
As a side note, IF you decide to use the seal protector/slinger, the bolts will NOT fit after install. you need to have them in place BEFORE installing the slinger. Ask me how I know.. UGH.
In the end, I decided not to use them anyway. Of course, I had already installed the front when I discovered this fact. Oops.
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Was concerned about clearance to the fuel tank - but it seems OK.
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Looking over the offset rear axle to the now centered t-case output. Note the angle...
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After this fun, I cleaned up and installed more wiring underhood. I also made a heat shield for the driver side as the exhaust will run close to the trans in its final configuration... No pics.
Interesting rear driveshaft. Don't recall seeing anyone run one like that. So when setting up the pinion angle do you follow the rules of a CV shaft or ? What did Tom say about it? Nice work as usual.
1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!
Interesting rear driveshaft. Don't recall seeing anyone run one like that. So when setting up the pinion angle do you follow the rules of a CV shaft or ? What did Tom say about it? Nice work as usual.
I talked with Tom awhile .. and we discussed the multiple angles. He felt I could likely get away with one Carden..
But he asked how worried I was about any vibrations. I want none as this is going to be a road trip Jeep.
Soo - I choose to do a "Double Double" Carden.. lol.
He says they do this on Land Cruisers all the time to address the offset axles... Not uncommon.
I guess a test drive will tell the tale in the end...
They're out there, Brad. Lots of folks run the offset rear with a center case output. He had another thread on it, too.
Those 327 stickers are PERFECT!!!! Well done!
With CV's at both ends of the drive shafts? That's not common. I get the offset rear end and centered tcase output (I contemplated the same thing myself , but I wasn't talking about that. Lol.
1974 Cherokee S. It's driving but needs more work. As usual!
Your project is looking better each week. You will have to let us know if there is any vibration once you test drive it. I would also be curious about any vibration while pulling a load.
My carcaine addiction wasted my life but it is a life well wasted.
As there is still a LOT to do, I didn't stop after pulling the Jeep out for the first time..
Had to get the t-case in gear, so I put the carpet down and put the knob on... The Dana 300 fits VERY well I must say... The CJ boot will look right at home when I get it all installed.
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Next up? Well, i had to take the hood off the roof to clear the door, so figured I would get started on that . . .
I need to install the new under hood insulation / sound deadener before reinstalling the hood.
Step One: Clean it.
I don't know what kind of funk place this Jeep was stored in when I bought it, but there is a layer of scum all over underhood
[ Well, there WAS when I bought it. - I never really cleaned up the hood ]
So some degreaser mixed in water.. and go
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Step Two: Scuff all the loose crud and paint off with a wire brush... Use air to blow away the debris.
Then wipe it all down with Prep-Sol.
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Step Three: Test fit the underhood sound insulation.
Question for you guys.. I know this is usually installed with the "smooth black" surface against the hood.
BUT, I kinda like the look of the smooth surface showing.
Thoughts on installing it with the smooth face showing?
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Here's a section of the "normal" side that shows.. It's the grey part. Seems to me this will soak up more dirt than the other side...
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Step Four: Tape off hood, and paint it black to match the rest of my underhood...
Note, you can see the remnants of old glue.. I couldn't get it off. I think the last guys who painted it just painted right over it.
No big deal as it will be covered by the hood insulation anyway.
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Step Five: Install the insulation.. DELAYED as I have to let the paint dry well and decide which side I want showing.
Getting excited .. might be able to actually drive it soon.
I came across this when replacing the insulation on an SS Monte Carlo
I asked the supplier,.... which side faces engine ?
they would never answer,
when I showed them I had installed with smooth black toward engine they said ...."that works "
so I think it is intended for smooth side to be toward hood
but the other way seems better,.....
although I used dynamat's "hoodliner" on both my FSJ's
P.S. just thought, I bet spray adhesive does better on the smooth side for more contact area as opposed to fuzzy side
and on a Monte Carlo the insulation is held on by large round push in clips, not adhesive,.... so on an FSJ using glue, the smooth Side may stick/hold better ??????
ready to see the Cherokee in action.
dave in NC
SOLSAKS - dave
1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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