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Old 04-24-2004, 08:37 AM
Merc69's Avatar
Merc69 Merc69 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 03, 2002
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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The other day I posted about leaking rear axle seals. Fixed this yesterday.

Special tools needed:
Torque Wrench
Slide Hammer with axle adapter
Jack and Jack Stands
Impact wrench

Start by jacking the rig up, placing the rear axle on Jack stands (one each side).

Then remove the rear wheels (Impact helps and is fast)

Remove the brake drums

There is a hole in the axle plate (the part with the wheel studs on it) Turn the hole to line up with one of the 4- 11/16" nuts. Remove the nuts (again the impact makes short work of this)

Then attach the slide hammer on to two of the wheel studs. Use two lug nuts to hold the plate inplace.

A couple of wacks with the hammer and the axle pops out.

Repeat for the other side.

Place the axles into the alternate form of transportation and take the axles to the drive-line shop and have them press the old bearings off and new ones on. ($40.00 labor/ $56.00 bearings, other misc. Total $101.56)

Only thing special when replacing the axles into the housing is to tighten the 4 nuts (11/16") to 15 ft/lbs then 30 ft/lbs and then to 50 ft/lbs.

On the later Dana 44 axles do not use the inner seal the shop may try to sell you...you don't need it...the gear oil lubs the axle bearings.

Easy thing to do once you have the slide hammer. Alternate suggestion from a friend was to take a section of chain...attach it to two wheen studs and use a 5lb hammer inside the chain to pop the axle out.
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Merc69/ Bruce AKA G.O.D. (Grumpy Old Dude)
"PsyOp" 87 Grand Wagoneer, 360, Powered by Propane, NP-208 t-case, Dana 60 front 4.56 gears-Detroit Locker, Corp 14 bolt 4.56 gears-Detroit Locker. Alcan Springs up front, Chevy 63", Hydraulic Steering

Under Construction: 4 link rear suspension, Klune-v and Ford 205 transfer case
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