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  #481  
Old 03-31-2018, 04:22 PM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Well we got a lot done on the tailgate yesterday but installing the lift bar kick our butts. All we managed to do is mangle the seal. When trying to install the lift bar onto the glass, the seal is folded in half, slid into the channel and try to slip over the glass. All we did was shear the gasket like a gasket punch. Lol. I think the seal is too thick. If you measure the thickness, x2, add the thickness of the glass, we're something like .100 too thick. I just don't see how this is going to work. I think I'll hit some local glass shops to see if I can find a material that's half the thickness of that seal.
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  #482  
Old 03-31-2018, 10:41 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Bkilby, take a look at Steele rubber products. I just got their catalog.

Sold per foot made from cork, cloth and rubber.

The rubber part numbers are "setting channel rubber" 1/32 X 1.5 Part number 70-2169-57
Then "setting rubber channel" 1/16 X 1.5 Part number 70-2170-57

I would imagine you trim it back after the glass is seated.

The price they included shows 70-2169-57 at 3.60 a foot and 3.80 a foot for the 1/16th thick stuff.

You can order their Universal Parts catalog online. I did and it has interesting stuff in it. Maybe you can find it cheaper elsewhere. I always thought Steele was high priced. They offer a lot though.
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1970 and 71 project J trucks
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  #483  
Old 03-31-2018, 10:59 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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I just did a little back reading in your thread. In my build thread post number 1153 shows us putting the tailgate on. The tension rods went a lot smoother that I predicted. You need helpers on each end of the gate while you are inside to insert the rods in their respective holes, have the helpers hold the gate in the upright position about 4 inches above the bed floor. You can get the rods in and then carefully slide the gate down on the hinges to get the bolts inserted and tight enough to see what you need for alignment. I had to protect the paint all around the door frame. It went pretty well.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #484  
Old 04-01-2018, 09:57 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jan 10, 2016
Location: Burbank Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
Bkilby, take a look at Steele rubber products. I just got their catalog.

Sold per foot made from cork, cloth and rubber.

The rubber part numbers are "setting channel rubber" 1/32 X 1.5 Part number 70-2169-57
Then "setting rubber channel" 1/16 X 1.5 Part number 70-2170-57

I would imagine you trim it back after the glass is seated.

The price they included shows 70-2169-57 at 3.60 a foot and 3.80 a foot for the 1/16th thick stuff.

You can order their Universal Parts catalog online. I did and it has interesting stuff in it. Maybe you can find it cheaper elsewhere. I always thought Steele was high priced. They offer a lot though.

It's funny you mention Steele Rubber. I was telling my helper that I bet Steele Rubber makes what we need but haven't had the time to look at their catalog. Thanks for the part numbers! Although they aren't cheap, I'd rather buy the right stuff once and be done with it. I'll measure the old rubber and see what I need on Monday.

I did go back and read your install of the tailgate. We'll probably install it this up coming week and your instructions will sure help. Thanks again.
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  #485  
Old 04-01-2018, 10:03 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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I wish I had the window in front of me. I'd like to find something like this with the correct dimensions.
https://www.steelerubber.com/window-...rip-30-0044-77
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  #486  
Old 04-01-2018, 10:16 AM
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You can be pretty harsh installing the lift channel. It is a PITA, but they will go on. Soapy water or windex and lots of it + plastic hammer like the HF orange dead blows.

I've had best luck with long 2x4 across center & start there. You almost need 3 people, but 2 is mandatory IMHO.

You can use a cut down to size bike innertube, @ least that's worked for me.
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  #487  
Old 04-01-2018, 10:29 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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We used lots of soapy water but maybe we weren't being harsh enough. Lol. We stopped after the lift bar cut the gasket material in half.

On the windows you've done, was the bottom of the glass curved upward? Was the glass curved at all?
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  #488  
Old 04-01-2018, 11:01 AM
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Honestly I don't recall if curved...just hammered them home and called it good.
Failed miserably on solo attempt once, after that I've used a helper.
When I say harsh I mean it lol, being kind & gentle just didn't get job done.
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  #489  
Old 04-01-2018, 02:16 PM
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Got it. I'll beat the snot out of it when I get more gasket material. Ha!
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  #490  
Old 04-01-2018, 02:20 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Bottom of the glass is curved.
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  #491  
Old 04-10-2018, 07:46 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Wow this tailgate is a huge PIA to work on. Ha! We've been fighting it every step of the way. The internals are kind of a hybrid though. The mechanism was from a later model electric unit that we modified into a manual unit. Reason being, my old mechanism was not in good shape at all. We did this mod in early 32016 so we've kind of forgotten what we've done.

Ok, so I ordered a new lift bar gasket from BJ's and had to wait for that to show up. Finally got around to installing it yesterday and it went pretty smooth. Smooth meaning beat it half to death with a rubber hammer like babywag mentioned. Lol. It's obvious the gasket TGW sent was the wrong one.

So before installing the channel on the glass, a couple of mods were necessary. We had to remove the "loops" off the new bar and weld the tabs off the old bar that holds the stainless trim.







While waiting for parts, we took the mechanism back out, cleaned it up, modified it more and put it back in. Then out. Then back in a few more times. We didn't catch it before but the FSM calls out for spacers to go between this unit and the outer door skin. This spaces it out enough for the motor to clear on the electric version. But it shows spacers for the manual version too so we searched and found the spacers and put them in. Well, now the window crank can't reach the shaft to raise and lower the window. So, spacers come back out. Again. Here's some random pics of the mechanism as we were tinkering with it.







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  #492  
Old 04-10-2018, 07:52 AM
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So we reinstalled the tailgate and proceeded to do all the adjustments etc. One thing we kept fighting was the tailgate needed to be raised straight up to line up the body lines and to get the latching pieces to operate and adjust properly. I couldn't see any easy way to do this so I ended up cutting 1/4" spacers and slid them under the hinge half that bolts to the floor. By doing this, we raise everything, including the heads of the bolts by 1/4" and now the cover plates don't fit for . Anyone else every have to raise the tailgate? Is there another way to do this without the spacers? Everything lines up absolutely beautiful now. The tailgate shuts perfectly and no rattles at all. I'm thinking those thick hinges got bent down over the years...



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  #493  
Old 04-10-2018, 09:14 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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The height adjustment (and tilt) is by loosening the bolts holding the hinges to the tailgate.
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  #494  
Old 04-10-2018, 10:41 AM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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Really? We did loosen those bolts and the tailgate went nowhere. Couldn't get it to budge at all.
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  #495  
Old 04-10-2018, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
Is that black shiny material on either side of your regulator, sound deadener you applied? If so, what kind? did it work? Would you install it again/recommend it?
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  #496  
Old 04-10-2018, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
Really? We did loosen those bolts and the tailgate went nowhere. Couldn't get it to budge at all.

On my '73 after I welded on new 1/4 panels, had to use the engine hoist & damn near lift the truck off ground to get gate to move up/line up.
Only needed ~.25", but it was a tough adjustment to get.
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  #497  
Old 04-10-2018, 12:44 PM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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<Sigh> Ok, we'll try again. I have a forklift. If that works, out come the spacers.
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  #498  
Old 04-10-2018, 02:36 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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There are floating nut plates in the tailgate. Maybe yours are rusted solid or already at its limit?
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  #499  
Old 04-10-2018, 03:40 PM
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bkilby bkilby is offline
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We just took a look again. There are the floating plates and they do move but they don't move a lot. The bolts holding the hinge to the tailgate is the limiting factor. The holes aren't slotted so the bolt can only move so far inside a round hole. Maybe 1/16" each direction? Long story short, pulling the tailgate out as far as the bolts allow, no change.

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  #500  
Old 04-10-2018, 06:34 PM
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Maybe when I lifted mine w/ hoist it simply bent the stuff where I wanted it?
I had literally all weight of truck supported by gate.
Do the plates move enough that slotting holes would get you more?
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