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Old 06-21-2009, 09:59 AM
RED-85-Z51 RED-85-Z51 is offline
Grease Monkey
Join Date: Feb 02, 2009
Location: Pensacola, Fl.
Posts: 391
What do you do for rust on te bottom inside of the doors?

On my GW, if I get on the ground with the front doors open, I can see a couple or 3-4 spots on the inner radius of the bottom of the doors that has rusted through. It doesnt feel brittle on the edges, and not at all "thinned" like the whole thing is rusted out, and the power window sworks like a new car in all the doors.

Can I take a small grinder or die cutter and trim the rust spots through and polyester filler them in? im all for fixing stuff right but when it comes to doors im not thatp icky especially when it is on a part that you will never see at all, but I hate the thought of having rust spots there.

Replacing the door frames isnt an option at this time.
1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer SOLD

1998 Ram 1500
5.9 Magnum
4 speed auto
Quad Cab

1985 Corvette Z51
350 Tuned Port Injection
*restoring now*

1976 Corvette L48 Stingray

1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Sedan
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Old 06-21-2009, 10:29 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 11,128
I would worry more about progression of the rust. Usually water inside the door causes rust there. The doors are supposed to drain through holes in their bottoms, but if they don't drain the humidity will rust from the inside out.

I'd certainly take the inside panels off and clean and dry the insides of the doors thoroughly. Disassemble as much as you need to get any moisture and debris out. Make sure the drains are clear and any rubber or fiber rain seals are in good condition and in place. After removing any loose rust and debris, I'd paint over any rusty metal on the inside with a good rust encapsulating paint like Eastwood, POR-15 or Rust Bullet.

To fix the appearance of the bottom of the door, you could grind out the rusty metal and either glue metal on the inside or fiberglass to span any holes in the metal. Then fill from the outside. Body filler is not meant to be a structural repair, so you need some structure to back it up before you fill any voids.

Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
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Last edited by tgreese : 06-21-2009 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:36 PM
andy d andy d is offline
Shade Tree Shaman
Join Date: May 06, 2000
Location: Marshfield,MA
Posts: 7,205
Ive come across 2 references about using linseed oil for this type of stuff. When linseed oil dries, it leaves a layer that is air tight.
\'88 gwag,pure stock
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:42 PM
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willam willam is offline
Master Mechanic
Join Date: Jul 12, 2005
Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 805
2X on linseed oil, when it dries it is tough ,sticky and damm near impossible to remove. Wax is commonly used as a rust inhibitor in newer cars, don't see why it would not work.

Just make sure the rag/applicator is disposed of properly. it is possible for it to spontaneously combust.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:33 AM
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Jayrodoh Jayrodoh is offline
FSJ Maniac
Join Date: Sep 07, 2004
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 3,221
If you have rust in the seams, a trick I learned back when I did my scout was to set the door in a raingutter sealed at both ends and fill the "troth" with rust disolver from Eastwood and let it sit overnight. That'll take care of the rust that you can't get too.

Of course you'll have painting invloved when you get done, but it'll take care fo those seams.
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