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  #1  
Old 10-30-2006, 07:11 PM
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BRUTUS BRUTUS is offline
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Square Front Driveshaft Question

So here is the background...

1410 yoke at the front differential input
2.00" x 1/4" wall square shaft
2.50" x 1/4" wall square shaft
1310 CV at the transfer case (it will be upgraded when I get the new transfer case... this is only temporary)

I got my 1410 weld yoke in the mail today and it has a round hollow weld-side.



It is meant for a 3" round tube to press fit and weld the seam.

I would prefer to take the weld yoke to my mill at work and mill out a space for the 2" shaft to fit completely inside the hollow weld-yoke, MORE than this:



The other option is to butt weld the yoke to the 2.5" shaft like so:



What do you guys think?

I think the advantages to welding to the smaller tube are:
  1. mechanical connection in conjunction with welded connection
  2. with the slip of the shaft pointed at the front axle, water/gunk is less likely to get into the joint
  3. it would be hard to get the yoke perfectly centered on the 2.5" tube
Are there any other considerations/ideas you guys have?
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  #2  
Old 10-30-2006, 08:19 PM
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jsinajeep jsinajeep is offline
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Do you think you can get that thing balanced enough to run on the road. If you want to do something like that then go to a farm parts store somewhere and get an yoke for the 2" square tube
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  #3  
Old 10-31-2006, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsinajeep
Do you think you can get that thing balanced enough to run on the road. If you want to do something like that then go to a farm parts store somewhere and get an yoke for the 2" square tube

I don't need it to balance because I have a D20. So the shaft will only turn when I am offroad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nvjeeper
putting the yoke an the smaller square is cool. maybe you could turn the square tube down a few thou. and it would slip in leaving the yoke at full stength then weld the dude up. only a thought.

I can put the smaller shaft on the lathe and turn it down.. but then I lose the mechanical connection that I would have if I hog out a square hole... it is just a tube within a tube again. If the welds were ever to break.. it would just spin inside. The other part is that if you look at the first picture the weld yoke has a tapered inside, so I would have to match the taper when I mill the small tube. For a machinist.. that would be pretty easy... I haven't touched a lathe in 5 years

I don't think it will take much of the strength out of the weld yoke because the tube already starts to slip inside, maybe 0.050" before it stops. So the outer thickness ~3/16" (or 1/4") would still be intact around the whole joint.

Thanks for your suggestions guys.
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Current Jeep Status:Under The Knife
Current Homepage Status: RUNNING

Last edited by BRUTUS : 10-31-2006 at 12:28 AM.
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  #4  
Old 10-30-2006, 08:21 PM
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NVJEEPER NVJEEPER is offline
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putting the yoke an the smaller square is cool. maybe you could turn the square tube down a few thou. and it would slip in leaving the yoke at full stength then weld the dude up. only a thought.
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  #5  
Old 10-30-2006, 09:48 PM
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rockingon24_7 rockingon24_7 is offline
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I'm with NVJEEPER mill down the small square tubing just enough to slide in and but. and not to get off the thread to far but has anyone used a tractor attachment drive shaft. They have a huge amount of slide like the square shafts and the joints can go to high angels. Are there crossover u-joints to like attach a 1410 yoke to a tractor shaft yoke? Just a thought
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  #6  
Old 10-30-2006, 09:54 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Machine down the smaller tube. I know you have access to a machine like that somwhere. <g>
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  #7  
Old 10-31-2006, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJ Guy
Machine down the smaller tube. I know you have access to a machine like that somwhere. <g>

yeah, it's called an angle grinder, lol.
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  #8  
Old 10-31-2006, 12:30 AM
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seriously though, i'd just mill the yoke and weld the living snot out of it. It's the weld that'll be important. If it comes apart it'll probably destroy the yoke no matter how you put it together.
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  #9  
Old 10-31-2006, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSJ Guy
Machine down the smaller tube. I know you have access to a machine like that somwhere. <g>

You didn't notice the lathe in the background?
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  #10  
Old 10-31-2006, 01:36 AM
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for my shafts im machining the weld yoke for the smaller tube. all 4 of them. then for the side w/ the 2.5" im gonna use about 4" of the smaller tube and weld it to the 2.5" w/ some plug welds also. makes it so you only have to machine the weld yokes for one size.
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  #11  
Old 11-08-2006, 07:04 PM
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Kenall Kenall is offline
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I came in late.

Grind the small till it fits inside the yoke.
weld the 2. for diff end.
Weld the large to another yoke for the Tcase end.

no way for the smaller tube to spin inside the larger?
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2006, 10:04 PM
Arborigine Arborigine is offline
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Thats cool, but i can't read it. Thanks
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  #13  
Old 11-13-2006, 01:25 AM
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here ya go yall.

just load up your 3 axis cnc mill.



indicate it,



and start making chips.



bada bing, bada boom.
square (and true) dshafts.



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  #14  
Old 11-13-2006, 01:27 AM
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Desert Beast Desert Beast is offline
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btw,

i made all 4 weld yokes to fit the 2" tube and for the 2 that will need to go on the 2.5" im just going to weld in a piece of 2" about 4" long and then slip over the 2.5" and weld it to the yoke also and plug weld it.
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  #15  
Old 11-13-2006, 09:28 AM
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great idea, that should do the trick.
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  #16  
Old 10-06-2008, 07:24 AM
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shimniok shimniok is offline
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Addition from Jason:

I wanted to add that I am going to add some plastic wearstrip to the driveshaft the next time I take it off. I am looking at McMaster Carr PN: 7701T211 and then using some aluminum rivets or something to help hold them solid.

Thanks,
Jason
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