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Old 12-03-2010, 12:05 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Tech-Installing rear discs on early Jeep Full Float D60

starting a thread for Tech Archives. I've searched all over the web and never seen a complete write up, so here we go.

The Victim: A 1972-74 narrow drum (staked) Jeep (which really is a dodge) Dana 60 8 lug Full Floater

The Supplies: Jeep D60 Rear Disc Kit from GubNI at NC4x4 forum, Pirate4x4 too I think. His is the least expensive kit, which includes 2 rotors (made in china, but look nicely machined), 2 rebuilt calipers, Brake Best pads, 2 brackets (decent machining but not perfect) bolts, 2 spacers, brakehoses. This application was 315 shipped, and they came very quickly via FedEx. So far, so good.


basic handtools, propane torch, Pb Blast, big block of wood.

The Attack:

First remove your axle shafts. Unbolt and slide out:


I used a 4" cutoff wheel and removed the Drum portion. Very easy and made the rest easier to do.


Soak the lugs and the inner face of the hub to the plate with PB Blast. I heated up the area first with a blue bottle first. Place on thick but soft block of wood and start tapping, alternating sides. When the hub face separates from the backing plate, slide a wedge in there. It doesn't take long to separate them.


Here you go. I'll be buying new lugs. Repeat on the other side.


I'll be updating this as I go.
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Last edited by Gambler68 : 06-02-2011 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 12-03-2010, 12:08 PM
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Old 12-03-2010, 05:31 PM
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Hubs do not clear bolt heads for bracket and spacer to axle flange. With the nuts on the inside of the axle flange, they in NO way come close to fitting flush with the flange, because of the tube. Will require either grinding out a notch for each nut on the flange/tube weld/seam, or slicing off a good thickness of one nut face. Not sure if the spacer is an optional item, will try without it (it's maybe 1/8th in. thick steel).

One side's grade 8 bolts need to be replaced due to thread damage from having to use the bolts to make the bracket suck on..holes were mis-aligned enough the make this rather un-fun.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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Old 12-03-2010, 06:03 PM
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Managed to get other side on barely easier with the spacer, and the bolt heads on the hub side. Hub *almost* clears the bolt heads with the spacer on. Haven't tried with spacer off. Nuts would still requre shaving, or will have to notch into the flange neckdown a bit.

This would all be minor stuff if oh, I had a milling machine or a big drill press to address the minor layout problems, but for a joe with handtools..

I guess I'll have to put the discs on the shafts, re-install with the spacer on and grind some for the hub to seat, to see if the spacer is required for the calipers to line up with the disc, or if its there for the bolts to clear the hub or not.

The other possible idea would be to use the original bolts that held the backing plate on, but I don't think they are long enough...dunno, done for today. I know that much
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .


Last edited by Gambler68 : 12-03-2010 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:13 PM
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/Subscribed - as my 77 J-20 is getting the fronts and rears done in 2011.

Thanks for starting the thread.
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:43 PM
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Maybe it's different for later D60s, but this early one is being a beech.
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1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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Old 12-03-2010, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68
Managed to get other side on barely easier with the spacer, and the bolt heads on the hub side. Hub *almost* clears the bolt heads with the spacer on. Haven't tried with spacer off. Nuts would still requre shaving, or will have to notch into the flange neckdown a bit.

This would all be minor stuff if oh, I had a milling machine or a big drill press to address the minor layout problems, but for a joe with handtools..

I guess I'll have to put the discs on the shafts, re-install with the spacer on and grind some for the hub to seat, to see if the spacer is required for the calipers to line up with the disc, or if its there for the bolts to clear the hub or not.

The other possible idea would be to use the original bolts that held the backing plate on, but I don't think they are long enough...dunno, done for today. I know that much
Did you buy the kit from gubi on Pirate? If so, your bracket holes are probably drilled wrong. Mine were, none of the holes lined up. Turns out, the guy who makes the brackets for him miss drilled the holes. After I received the correct brackets, it bolted right up. He also sent me the wrong hub seals.
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Last edited by v10sport : 12-03-2010 at 08:52 PM.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:53 PM
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Gambler68 Gambler68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v10sport
Did you buy the kit from gubi on Pirate? If so, your bracket holes are probably drilled wrong. Mine were, none of the holes lined up. Turns out, the guy who makes the brackets for him miss drilled the holes. After I received the correct brackets, it bolted right up. He also sent me the wrong hub seals.


Yup. Well that freaking sucks I actually did grow up in a machine shop..this stuff is off, but I can make it work, just have to wallow out some of these holes that are off. Oh well. Live and learn. I haven't checked the hub seals..they're cheap enough I don't mind if I have to replace.
__________________
1979 Chero S "Sundog" 1979 Chero S "Hammer"
1968 327 J3000 1978 J10SWB
The Edge... there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who really know where it is are the ones who have gone over.
Hunter S. Thompson .

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Old 12-03-2010, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gambler68
starting a thread for Tech Archives. I've searched all over the web and never seen a complete write up, so here we go.

The Victim: A 1972-74 narrow drum (staked) Jeep (which really is a chevy) Dana 60 8 lug Full Floater.

I certainly wouldn't give GM that much credit. Dana built axles for all the manufactures and the BOM code on your axle will be for a Jeep if it came from a Jeep. Thanks for putting this together.
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