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  #1  
Old 07-03-2002, 11:36 PM
leila leila is offline
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Hi all,
Happy 4th!!!!!! I usually have my oil changed at Jiffy Lube but I plan on doing it myself today. I plan on putting in some Marvel Mystery Oil, as well. My silly question is...do I put in the quart of MMO in place of one of the quarts of oil or in addition to the oil? Thanks.

Leila
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  #2  
Old 07-04-2002, 12:36 AM
Jeepzilla Jeepzilla is offline
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It goes in place of one of the quarts. You shouldn't over fill the crankcase. Give your quart to the man before he starts, the price may be lower since they don't have to use the standard anount...
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Old 07-04-2002, 12:39 AM
Rob Rob is offline
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After the oilchange it should be on level including the MMO. Let the engine run for a few minutes and check level again. Suppose you change filter too, do you?

Any special reason you put that stuff in?
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2002, 02:03 AM
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Rob … I quit using Marvel Mystery Oil. But it will clean crud out of nooks and crannies in your engine. It has high concentrates of cleaning additives in it. Lots of people use MMO as an upper-lub in the fuel but I quit using it. Below is a LINK of interest. Hope you enjoy OURAY and hope to see you there.. .. CUL.. ds..
UPPERLUBE FUEL ADDITIVES
http://groups.msn.com/ATexasOklahoma...aycotopic.msnw

[ July 04, 2002, 08:05 AM: Message edited by: Don S ]
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Sold our 1976 Wagoneer 406, MC4300, TH400, QT, TruTrac, 2" lift, 31x10.50s, duel Optimas,
It’s took us over 161 Colorado Mountain Passes, 3 Jeep Jamboree USAs & 2 Ouray Invasions from 1985 to 2010
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2002, 02:21 AM
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OBX-AUTOMOTIVE OBX-AUTOMOTIVE is offline
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I LIKE THE CAN LOGO...COOL [img]smile.gif[/img]
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2002, 05:18 AM
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Rob.. this thread is not showing correctly on my computer so I will.. BTT.. .. ds..
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Sold our 1976 Wagoneer 406, MC4300, TH400, QT, TruTrac, 2" lift, 31x10.50s, duel Optimas,
It’s took us over 161 Colorado Mountain Passes, 3 Jeep Jamboree USAs & 2 Ouray Invasions from 1985 to 2010
ACRONYMS & ABBREVIATIONS HERE
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  #7  
Old 07-04-2002, 05:38 AM
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I use Marvel Oil as a fuel additive, but don't see any reason to add it to my oil. I do add a quart of Slick 50 to each oil change though. As was already mentioned, substitute any volume of additive for the same amount of required oil.
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  #8  
Old 07-04-2002, 06:32 AM
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Gwinn, DuPont (who invented and maufactures Teflon, tried to prevent Slick and others from using it in oil additives as Dupont didn't want the liability when it trashed the motors...They published a white paper explaining technically why it was (and is) a BAD idea and Slick's mfg (who also manufacutres and owns most of the 'slick' competitors by the way) filed suit to muzzle Dupont from spreading the bad news. do a google search on the subject you should be able to find the history.

Teflon is a solid. when you put solids in an engine they eventually land somewhere, collect en masse and choke off your oil supply passages...

Also, for what you are paying for slick, you can get their same product under another lable for like 1/10th the price...markup is ridiculous. Those guys are rolling in dough for selling snake oil.
er make that 'snake solids'
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  #9  
Old 07-04-2002, 06:35 AM
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gwinn .. I don't want to be a fly in the soup but the U.S. gov-mint has law suites against Slick 50 for failure to perform per its claims. Several other oil companies are also involved(I did not check on MMO). I was pleasantly surprised that Durualube was not at the time involved. Personally I thought Slick 50 was OK but liked the Durualube much better… Just my 2oz worth.. CUL.. your friend.. Kenardly B. Slicker..

UPPERLUBE FUEL ADDITIVES
http://groups.msn.com/ATexasOklahoma...aycotopic.msnw
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Sold our 1976 Wagoneer 406, MC4300, TH400, QT, TruTrac, 2" lift, 31x10.50s, duel Optimas,
It’s took us over 161 Colorado Mountain Passes, 3 Jeep Jamboree USAs & 2 Ouray Invasions from 1985 to 2010
ACRONYMS & ABBREVIATIONS HERE
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2002, 07:23 AM
WINGO WINGO is offline
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I use MMO as a fuel additive for "Old Faithfull" (1979 Stroked Ironhead). IMHO it adds life to the valves. These engines run so hot that you need whatever protection is availiable.

I do not beleive in additives for engine oil. Buy and use a good dino or synthetic oil use a good filter and change your oil often.
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  #11  
Old 07-04-2002, 07:54 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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Gwinn,
do some homework on the Slick 50 thing...the above folks are trying to steer you right. It's not gonna hurt you're motor "today" but that teflon will eventually plug something up especially if you keep adding more at every oil change.
I'm not a big fan of any oil additives unless needed. I am a believer in MMO but when I started using it in the early 70's it was on old 50's vintage stuff that was used to running non-detergent oil and back when everyone thought "so long as ya had oil in there it don't need changing". In the 50's oil filters on Chev's were "optional" equipment
Today I'll still use MMO on an old motor I'm trying to revive but generally I run sans additives. I did for years run a pt(not qt) of MMO in everything at each oil change and it never hurt anything and did keep the internals clean but todays oils are "much better" than the oils of 30 years ago and additives aren't needed today.
I do still dump a pt of MMO in every 3rd oil change or so more out of habit than need. It's good to run a qt through the fuel tank once in awhile too...seems to keep the system cleaner especially an injected fuel system.
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2002, 08:18 AM
Oso Oso is offline
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I am a big believer in Castrol GTX. I saw a comparison study done some years back on all the motor oils on the market. I think some automtive engineering group did it. This was like 20 years ago. It was very comprehensive and in layman's terms.

Basically what it said iis that among other considerations the beneficial additives are necessary. And allmost all oils have around 15-18% whereas GTX runs about 45%. I do not remember enough details to be more specific than that.

I do know that I have torn down several engines after 200K miles or so and they were shiny as a new penny and lasted a lot longer than their anticipated life span. Not all engines can be expected to last as long as these Jeep engines. Some are only expected to get 100 - 125K out of them and when I get 200K I am impressed.

Just did a Google search for it. Couldn't find it. I do not even wanna know why it pulled up consumer report's ratings of condoms.

[ July 04, 2002, 02:26 PM: Message edited by: Oso ]
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  #13  
Old 07-04-2002, 08:43 AM
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gwinn gwinn is offline
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Okay! How do I clean up the mess that years of Slick 50 has done? The PO claimed he added the stuff with every oil change for the 60K miles he had it also. Could this stuff explain why I run such a high engine temp with a virtually new cooling system?
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  #14  
Old 07-04-2002, 08:49 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Oso:
I do not even wanna know why it pulled up consumer report's ratings of condoms.
Now that would be a job to have...testing/rating condoms
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  #15  
Old 07-04-2002, 09:03 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by gwinn:
Okay! How do I clean up the mess that years of Slick 50 has done? The PO claimed he added the stuff with every oil change for the 60K miles he had it also. Could this stuff explain why I run such a high engine temp with a virtually new cooling system?
How's your oil pressure? If it's really low your motor will run hotter. There are many things that will cause high temps besides clogged oil passages/low oil pressure...no fan shroud blah blah. Odds are though since Slick 50 is pretty expensive that the DPO "might" have just been telling you he added it every oil change to make ya think it's been taken really good care of. DPO's have been known to be "not quite truthful" In this case it would be a good thing...imagine that
Basically just stop using the stuff and keep up on your oil/filter changes. I don't know enough about teflon to know what will remove it(if it's even actually stuck in the motor?) other than as Oracle mentioned it is a solid and isn't oil soluble. I'd guess the odds are in your favor...
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  #16  
Old 07-04-2002, 09:29 AM
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OBX-AUTOMOTIVE OBX-AUTOMOTIVE is offline
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STP**..IN EVERY OVERHAUL...1960 TO DATE!! I GLUE ALL THE BEARINGS IN, ON START-UP...THEN DUMP THE REST IN THE ENGINE!!!......WORKS FOR ME!!!.. ..I HAD STP STICKERS STUCK TO MY QUARTER GLASS ON MY CARS BACK THEN!! !!! COOL...HA!....CLAY SMITH CAMS... ...TOO!! [img]smile.gif[/img]
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  #17  
Old 07-04-2002, 10:14 AM
Oracle Oracle is offline
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Gwinn I concur with Joe's rec. You might also consider an engine flush, this might dislodge whatever has accumulated so far.

My father used to run a scientific instruments company. The PHD's there got into a discussion on oils etc. and decided to screw around with some equipt and see what they found. All i can remember by way of specifics was that Mobil 1 Synthetic won by a long shot.

(as an aside, these same guys got to screwing around with various alcoholic beverages trying to determine the least harmful to the human body [img]smile.gif[/img] I seem for some reason to remember more details on that study heheh Vodka was the least damaging, two worst were Gin and Bourbon but I forget in which order [img]smile.gif[/img] Rum actually had some food value (prob the sugars)

Lastly, GEMO [img]smile.gif[/img] i posted this some months ago, but will trot it out again. I had occasion to have dinner with Richard Petty one time and ended up sitting next to him. We'd both had a few drinks and I finally leaned in and asked him if STP (his major sponsor at that time) really "worked". He glanced around, then leaned in and whispered.."Whelp, it don't hurt nuthin" then grinned from ear to ear .....
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83GW, \"MudPUPPY\" <br />86\"BloodSucker\"-86GW,D44-AMC20 <br />88GW \"TheBLack\" Restored Luxo <br />88GW \"BABE\" A Wagonmaster beauty. <br />86 \"Mean Machine\" . blueprinted .03 over 401, 27gal tank, 4\" rearc\'d, 33x12.50 Laredos (REAT TIRE), Wheelwells whacked,4barrel Rochester, Manual choke, Hood Scoop, front brush bar, o2sensor with digital readout for tuning mix <br />2 90 Gen1 Mitsu Monteros, <br />2 91 Gen1 Mitsu Monty\'s<br />2 93 RangeRover County Lwb <br />1 95 SR Mitsubishi Montero GenII. <br />My Moab Rig: \"DodgeZilla\"<br />90 Cummins W350 Dodge PowerWagon,lifted,geared,locked and cocked 12k Ramsey,5spd and 205, 4.10\'s, Detroits front and rear,36\'s or 38\'s depending on mood Popup camper
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  #18  
Old 07-04-2002, 10:23 AM
Oso Oso is offline
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Quote:
Now that would be a job to have...testing/rating condoms
I guess that would depend on which side of the condom you are on now, wouldn't it?
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  #19  
Old 07-04-2002, 10:53 AM
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re condoms LOL don't think the testin is all that fun, they use a machine
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83GW, \"MudPUPPY\" <br />86\"BloodSucker\"-86GW,D44-AMC20 <br />88GW \"TheBLack\" Restored Luxo <br />88GW \"BABE\" A Wagonmaster beauty. <br />86 \"Mean Machine\" . blueprinted .03 over 401, 27gal tank, 4\" rearc\'d, 33x12.50 Laredos (REAT TIRE), Wheelwells whacked,4barrel Rochester, Manual choke, Hood Scoop, front brush bar, o2sensor with digital readout for tuning mix <br />2 90 Gen1 Mitsu Monteros, <br />2 91 Gen1 Mitsu Monty\'s<br />2 93 RangeRover County Lwb <br />1 95 SR Mitsubishi Montero GenII. <br />My Moab Rig: \"DodgeZilla\"<br />90 Cummins W350 Dodge PowerWagon,lifted,geared,locked and cocked 12k Ramsey,5spd and 205, 4.10\'s, Detroits front and rear,36\'s or 38\'s depending on mood Popup camper
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  #20  
Old 07-04-2002, 02:24 PM
Jeepzilla Jeepzilla is offline
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Seems I remember an Andy Granatelli commercial that said the best effect of STP was to add viscosity so that the oil "stayed up" when the engine was shut down. Everyone knows that the most wear occurs at start up when metal meets metal.
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