Body Lifts

[Marc_01]

From what i know, the b&m floor shifters work off a cable, so it can be mounted anywhere. Here is what summit has to say about one of the B&M's.

Part# BMM-80675
DESCRIPTION:
A detent and a rachet shifter all in one.

"The B&M Starshifter normally works like a standard detent shifter but by simply pulling the lockout trigger and moving the stick to low it becomes a full rachet action shifter for quick gear changes. With a cable operated mechanism, universal floor mount console, NHRA/IHRA approved reverse lockout, neutral safety switch and polished aluminum T-handle the Starshifter is at home on the street or the track."

Here is the shifter im talking about at summit.

[irbob]

Sent for the Performance Parts 3" lift today. (Out of the Trailmaster kit) It cost $69.95. $82.29 with shipping and handling. Ordered it through Four Wheel Wholesalers at 1-800-421-1050. Talked to Bob at extention #5110. He said that they sell 20 of those a week where they only sell 1 a week of the Trailmaster lifts. Probley because they are out of them whenever someone calls. In his opinion the Performance Parts lifts are made of higher quality materials. Now, was he just trying to make a sale? I don't know. Go figure.

List of things to do while waiting for the kit to arrive:
1. WD bolts (loosen when ready)
2. Remove bumpers
3. Remove txfer linkage
4. Check/loosen brake lines
5. Lower radiator
6. Disconnect fuel filler hose(what end)
7. Think about what to do with the stearing linkage(will this thing be long enouph)
8. Start fab of bumper lifters.

What have I missed fellow FSJeepers? I want to be ready to slam this lift in when it arrives.

P.S. Anyone buy the "Gap Guards". I guess they are rubber pieces that cover the gap in the wheel wells after installing the body lift. 40 some odd dollars. I told Bob I would have to see how it looks before buying em.

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Me IFSJA Window Sticker
83 Brougham, 360, 999 Auto, NP229, F/Dana 44F, R/AMC 8 7/8", 31X10.5 Pathfinder's, Rancho 9000's, 2" lift blocks. "Have you been off road lately?"

[BIGUGLY]

I have a B&M Z-gate shifter. Ilove it.about 2 hour total installation. It takes longer to remove old linkage and rework column than to install.

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79 Cherokee
BIGUGLY
360 Stroker/TH400/QT/44's
edelbrock performer pac
3"lift 33x12.5

[FSJman]

the star shifter is nice


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FSJman
amc 360 bored 60 over
edelbrock 4bbl 650 s/p carb
accel super coil
coustom exhaust
b/m star shifter
3 inch body lift
coustom front bumper
tow package
31/10.50 BFG AT

[scotty]

i left my radiator in the stock place.im using an electric fan and it ended up working better for me to leave it there.

i had the little rod welded to the rod from my column shifter.i dont know about the xfer case. i havent ever used my plastic flag shifter(im not even sure why its still there!) when i first installed the lift,i was using a shifter from a wrangler with the 207 i was using.now im using the currie twin stick with my dana 300. both of these types bolt to the tranny or t case and pop up thru the floor. neither have turned out tooshort because of the floor being 3 inches higher.

i did the same thing brake lines-simply let them stretch. i also had the same trouble with the 2 rearmost bolts-nut broke loose and spun around inside the body.

the other thing thats a PITA is the front 2 core support body mounts. theres a very small access hole to put a wrench on the nut. once you finagle it inthere,have someone else turn the wratchet that you have installed several extensions on to be able to turn it up high,out of the engine compartment.it is d*** near impossible to turn the wratchet and hold the wrnech at the same time.



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scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future

[River Beast]

YEAH!!!!I foregot about those two PITA front mounting points.....MAN those were a DOOZY puttin' in myself....I can't remember exactly how I did it.... it's like a terrible event you have happen to you....after it's over... you block it out (hehe).

IRBOB,

The steering linkage is fine. It has a small u-joint under the hood with a telescopic effectbuilt in to the steering rod.

Do like Scotty and I did, leave the brakelines stretch on their own.

You'll want to wait on the disconnecting of the gass filler line til you get your lift...You can make the decision which end to do once your lift in going in ... I did mine at the tank.



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TJ
78 Wagoneer "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's (soon to be 4.88's)
7" SOA conversion
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
33x12.50's on 15x10's
(soon 38.5x14.50's on 12's)
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/~spazz4life
"Where there's a hill...there's a way!"

[DLyons]

Wait to do anything with the fuel filler like RB said. You might luck out like I did, it was long enough. Also I disconnected the transfer case linkage during the installation but found out that it didn,t need extended. the flag shifter is pionting down somewhat, but works fine.
I found the information on RiverBeast's site to be very helpful when doing my lift.
Thanks RB!
Good Luck on the install!

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DLyons
84 Grand Wagoneer
360 (For now!)
2" Suspension Lift
2 1/2" Body Lift
Rattle Can Paintjob

[irbob]

Hey this is great. I feel like I have my own pit crew.(everyone pick a corner and lift) This information will defiantly help make the installation go smoother.

P.S. Ok guys lets see if we can get this pit stop time down a little more. vroooom-vrooooom

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Me IFSJA Window Sticker
83 Brougham, 360, 999 Auto, NP229, F/Dana 44F, R/AMC 8 7/8", 31X10.5 Pathfinder's, Rancho 9000's, 2" lift blocks. "Have you been off road lately?"

[ClarkGriswald]

I'm waiting for a nascar official to hop out when I'm at a stoplight one of these days .. and measure the angle of my rear spoiler. Hope I dont get disqualified..sorry i just wanted a little more downforce for when im in 4 low creepin along.. whats up with those things..

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88 Grand Wagoneer
D44's front\rear
AMC 360
TF 727
NP 229 (Funky)
Bone Stock (for now)
NO RUNNING BOARDS!

[irbob]

Finally got a chance to get under my jeep last night. I have 10 mounts and what looks like a bumper right in front of the rear tire which looks like a mount but doesn't have a bolt going through it.

I WD all the bolts, boy I hope the nuts stay put. I don't have the tools to bend the metal and weld it back. Looks like I could drill holes through the floor to get at some of them if that happends.

Also noted that my emergency brake cable will have to be routed differently. It goes under the frame and it's tight.

The fuel fill hose will be ok. Matter of fact I think that after the lift it will cure the problem of slow filling. Right now there is a kind of sink trap situation going on the way the hose is sagging down. So after the lift is in the gas should have a strait shot to the tank. Crossing my fingers.

The radiator is laughabley easy to moove down. Drill four holes and its done. Have a 90 degree drill adapter that will work well. Going to leave it all together, drill the holes and then move it down, cake.

To bad that I notice some canister hoses against the manifold that will eed replacing. Oh well, one thing after another.

Now my question for today is. I see that the mounts are about 1 inch tall now. So will I actually gain 3 inches or 2?

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Me IFSJA Window Sticker
83 Brougham, 360, 999 Auto, NP229, F/Dana 44F, R/AMC 8 7/8", 31X10.5 Pathfinder's, Rancho 9000's, 2" lift blocks. "Have you been off road lately?"

[DLyons]

You will gain 3 inches. You leave in the old mounts and put the lift spacers on top of them.

[River Beast]

irbob,

You won't have to re-route the E-brake cable. There should be an adjustment screw off the X-member. Mine has a loop cable that connects the two rear wheels and "T's" into the long adjustment bolt coming thru the x-member. Look for it.. follw your cables from the rear andsee if they come togethere at a center location... that should be where the adjuster is at.

A body lift should not affect this anyway... it didn't on mine...

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TJ
78 Wagoneer "River Beast"
360/TH400/QT
Dana 44's (soon to be 4.88's)
7" SOA conversion
4" Skyjacker Softride
3" Trailmaster Bodylift
33x12.50's on 15x10's
(soon 38.5x14.50's on 12's)
My FSJ site: http://www.geocities.com/~spazz4life
"Where there's a hill...there's a way!"

[irbob]

DLyons, I don't know about putting the new 3" blocks on top of those squishy old blocks. Don't u think that would look kind of tacky? If I only gain 2" that may be enough to stop the tire rubbing. I don't know, just have to wait until I get to that point.

River Beast, I have the same adjustments as you're talking about but for some reason the parking break cable goes down around the frame instead of on top and out of the way of snags. It may be a good idea for me to relocate it anyway even if the lift isn't a factor.

Thanks for the info Jeepers.

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Me IFSJA Window Sticker
83 Brougham, 360, 999 Auto, NP229, F/Dana 44F, R/AMC 8 7/8", 31X10.5 Pathfinder's, Rancho 9000's, 2" lift blocks. "Have you been off road lately?"

[This message has been edited by irbob (edited August 18, 2000).]

[scotty]

if your old ounts look bad,go ahead and order new ones before you take it apart. solid plastic between frame and body will mean less body movement,and much more moise and vibration transmitted to the inside.



------------------
scott
85 grand wagoneer
258 with motorcraft 2bbl/904/twin stick dana 300/dana 44/welded amc 20
38x15.5 gumbo mudders
snorkel/dual batteries/onboard air/"custom" convertable
3 inch body lift/mostly stock suspension/"modified" fender openings
custom front/rear bumpers and brushgaurd

possible small block chevy "test" swap in near future