I have the interior gutted. Under (above?) the headliner were strips of what appeared to be asphalt based sound insulation. They were debonded and resting on the headliner.
I was debating what to replace them with. Conventional wisdom is to iron on a layer of Dynamat or one of the knock offs.
Then I came into some two part urethane foam for free so I’m going to use that. It will certainly provide thermal insulation and stiffen the roof. I think it’ll do a good job on wind noise coming through the roof.
Since I plan to inject it into the channel around the edge of the roof then spray the flat areas I have to deal with the the A-pillar/roof joint first.
Looks like six or seven different pieces meet here. They used some stiff Bondo-like filler and seam sealer. When it fails water gets under the paint and into the seams. It can also run down into the door hinge cavity. If the sealer between that cavity and the interior has a hole you have source of water to rust the floor.
There’s a gap in the drip edge that is supposed to be covered by a stainless piece. Note some factory brazing. Doesn't go well with welding unless you remove it.
I’m not reusing the plastic covered aluminum trim. If I can’t find (or am unwilling to pay for) some old stainless trim I’ll do without. That means filling the gap. The lower piece is for the left side. The other two are for the right. The right windshield gutter doesn’t come up high enough to meet the roof gutter so two pieces are needed.
Gutter edge finished. Still have to fill in the gap underneath and braze it up. I didn't want to try to remove the factory brazing so there will be some gaps to close where it was to close to the braze to weld.
The filler piece for the underside
My only concern it that these joints will now be stiff and crack. Time will