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Old 05-11-2019, 09:31 PM
ZackN920's Avatar
ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Nov 18, 2015
Location: Stephenson County, IL
Posts: 879
Guy's, I chickened out and said F-it.

I got looking at it more that Friday and figured "this is gunna take me all day". "Probably won't be done until sunday!" So, since it's very slow at the moment, I'm just going to watch it like I've been doing. Actually, after changing the radiator and cleaning under the engine some, I haven't noticed any green driplet's forming yet. and I've put something like 200 miles on it since the radiator change.
I've decided that this IS a job to do if the engine comes out, or if I get access to a lift to put it up on. Laying on the floor underneath for several hours/ all day is a royal pain in the ass!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
This is a link with photos of the Dorman copper plugs. I'm going to use them on my leaking Jaguar because there's no access to drive in conventional plugs.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...wG3g&gclsrc=ds
Interesting. I haven't ever come across those before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
IIRC - drive the point of the bar through the center, and pry it out. Destructive removal.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto.../dp/B002FCGE4M
Interesting looking tool. I have a pry bar about that size, wonder if that would do?
What I was planning on doing is pretty destructive too! Large flathead screw driver and a 5lb hammer... and hope they end up cocked sideways so I could grab em' with pliers. Most likely though-tear out the centers, then fight the outer ringe to get the fudge out of the block...


Quote:
Originally Posted by tgreese
Permatex #1.
cool



Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
When I installed my brass freeze plugs, I rubbed the inside of the hole with a very light coating of "The Right Stuff" black then inserted the plug. My machinist recommended "The Right Stuff" and when I googled it, I saw nothing but good about it (other than cost). So far mine do not leak. I say if you are going to go through the effort of replacing the freeze plugs ALWAYS use brass. They will outlive your engine. Figure on it taking a Saturday. If all goes well, 4 hours but knowing it NEVER all goes well, so a Saturday.

Clean the hole out with a stiff wire brush. Don't get the cheapies from Harbor Freight or you will break one off in your block, then good luck getting it. Get the ones that are about the size of a tooth brush. Also, some emory cloth works well, too. Make sure you do your TStat (195 Degree) while you have your cooling system drained.

Then fill your truck with straight distilled water. Run it like that until (at least) you have had normal operating temps for 20 mins. Turn if off, drain it, pull your rad again, rinse it out, and repeat one or two times. Then just drain the Rad and fill with 2 gallons of green concentrate and Water Wetter.
huh, how do ya like that- a place near by me actually has that stuff for a fair price...
Yup, brass is what I got. That's what I kept reading when I was looking this stuff up.

Got the brushes man, with all the crap I do, I got plenty of em'. Also got a variety of the emery cloth but I'm always misplacing that junk, probably take me half an hour to find it.
Tstat? why? I didn't change that when I did the rad swap. It actually looked pretty good(what I could see of it) and works great.

Still haven't looked up that water wetter stuff

Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Oh, and tool:

I started with this (borrowed it from a friend):
OTC Frost Plug tool
HATED IT! Absolute TURD of a tool. It won't work for you anyway (since you are not on an engine stand) but don't buy/rent/borrow a tool like that. wiley-moe always has awesome advice so maybe the offset tool he speaks of is better. I just ended up finding an old crappy socket that fit just inside the frost plugs and tapped it in with a mallet until it was about 1/8" out of the block then gently tapped the plug in the last little bit with a small hammer. It should sit flush to the block when you are done.
Yea, that wouldn't work at all for the rusty crap wagon...
I'm always doing that stuff with socket's! Your talking about for install though, right?
__________________
1990 Grand Wagoneer-"The Crapwagon"
AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 3.31gears, 2" lift
Rancho 44044, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI
...still kinda rusty

The other's
1926 Dodge Brothers 5 pass. Business Sedan 212-I4, 3 speed, CRANK START (new long term project)
1987 Lincoln Town Car "Signature Series" 5.0, AOD unknown gears
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9,A999TF,3.90gears(DD)
1994 GMC 'Burban L05-5.7,4L60E,3.73gears(DD)
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0,AW4,3.73gears(thinkin of selling)
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