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-   -   Another 70 wagoneer build (http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=121305)

lifted-04-lj 02-15-2011 04:09 PM

Here I was thinking I was doing great work with some 16ga steel... http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...=124913&page=4 not quite up to your standards. Great Work!

Kaiserjeeps 02-25-2011 01:47 PM

OK who is passing this flu around.:) I am getting spanked this year. Massive cough and an ear infection complete with a bleeding ear. If I could breath the cold air outside and not cough uncontrollably, I could get some work done. 14 days now. I am getting stir crazy!:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Don't give up on me as I will return!!!:D
I hope all of you are well and avoid the junk going around this year.
Back soon I hope.

247pia 02-25-2011 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
OK who is passing this flu around.:) I am getting spanked this year. Massive cough and an ear infection complete with a bleeding ear. If I could breath the cold air outside and not cough uncontrollably, I could get some work done. 14 days now. I am getting stir crazy!:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Don't give up on me as I will return!!!:D
I hope all of you are well and avoid the junk going around this year.
Back soon I hope.


I had it off and on starting in November until the beginning of this month. Got prescribed a Z pack twice and then a ten day supply for the third and final round. First sinus infection then flu and sinus, then sinus, then strep throat, then sinus again. I missed two day's of work. Have went five years without a sick day. I think Alqueda is poisoning our water.

YJ-4BT 02-28-2011 09:31 AM

Geez... this is definitely going to be a valuable reference thread when I get to mine. Fine workmanship and a discriminating eye for details. Great job my friend! :thumbsup:

twisted frame 03-07-2011 08:07 PM

Thank you for the info on the corking tool. I love getting these updates!

jaber 03-07-2011 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twisted frame
Thank you for the info on the corking tool. I love getting these updates!


X2, now I know what to call them. :D

Very nice craftsmanship. :thumbsup:

Thank you for sharing, it will help. :cool:

Carnuck 03-07-2011 11:54 PM

Last summer I threw away a near perfect floor I cut out of an '84 GW. Posted everywhere (thought I put it here too) but no takers AND I'M IN SEATTLE! :(

Kaiserjeeps 03-08-2011 12:27 AM

Well I have survived the last couple weeks.:D I am weeks in to one of the worst ear infections and not much hearing yet. I hope it clears soon. I spent 10 days inside as cold air made me cough like nobody's business. Then like a madman decided to rewire my house as only two outlets were legally grounded. It won't sell that way and and once inspected must be done professionally. Like 2K worth. I am almost done. I am completely blessed with great friends.
And unfortunately I lost yet a 4th family member in a year last Monday to a brain hemorrhage after a fender bender the Friday before. No body had a clue. So I have 2 family funerals happening Saturday. Being grateful is so important. I guess I am saying I have been bored lately.;)
I am kind of venting a little too I think.:)

Anyway.

I am glad to spend some time on some metal work. I have one hole left to fill. But first the drivers lower kick panel is needing attention. The new floor will look great. But not connected to this.



It is a pretty light gauge metal there. I better be careful with the TIG. I was able to split most of it very easy with a special chisel I thinned out. It is sharp and cuts well. The upper cut I used a mini sawzall and a dremel cutting disc to avoid the metal underneath. Wow the inner rocker area in the bottom of the door pillar looks great! Some clean up and urethane paint to seal it up and I can weld the skin back on.



Looking closer I found a possible problem. The drivers door pillar has sagged just a little bit on the top of the rocker end. The crack in the web was the first thing I spotted. The crack was not flat.



I looked at my 69 sitting next to this 70 and it had the same problem. I am not surprised despite the better condition of my floors. I took my wag in part of the Rubicon in California in the 90's. I had some "hard use" that may have contributed.:o I have way less rust but the same crack(s?) Looks like a a potential weak spot in these babies.



Now looks like a good time for a pattern. I found this heavy oversize graph paper board that makes the best patterns. You can use the lines to help make straight cuts, and you can make contoured parts by wrapping the paper around what you need, and transferring it to metal when you get it right. Corrugated muti layer card board will never make a good pattern. So be sure to avoid it's double layers.



Then using the pattern I can see what has moved up front.



So it looks like I need to pull the fender and skirt and take a closer look. Plus when I weld in the short toe piece in before the floor, I can plannish the weld flat a lot easier. The passenger side needs plannishing also.

So Now is a good time to start looking at the door gaps and the fit. This door is barely rubbing up at the top of the wing window. The rest of the gaps are pretty good. When the fender and skirt are off I will see if I can correct the pillar and sill. I may not be able to reverse this. If so I will need to see if any door problems existing now can be fixed by shimming. No welding will happen till I have a plan. My goal will be to straighten it. If I can get it straight then it looks like a good candidate for an additional web of slightly thicker metal welded over the existing cracked web. Funny, the third 69 scrapper waggie on my car trailer outside is straight as ever right there. I need to go scratch my head for a while. I will fix it. :)

Kaiserjeeps 03-08-2011 12:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carnuck
Last summer I threw away a near perfect floor I cut out of an '84 GW. Posted everywhere (thought I put it here too) but no takers AND I'M IN SEATTLE! :(




Nooooooooo!!! (echo)

I am going to pretend I didn't see this.:D:D:D:D

Kaiserjeeps 03-14-2011 06:31 PM

Well I got a few more things done. I put a sissors jack under the part that had sagged a little bit. I carefully while watching the cracked web, and the rocker on all sides while I lifted the rig slowly until the frame just lifted off the jack stand. The metal remained unchanged.



I wanted to try striking the top of the rocker to see if I could make it move and hopefully flatten out. I found the two layers and the welds. I needed to distribute the blow to the entire area. I used a brass punch and a bearing press puck to achieve this. A punch alone would do damage and make a mess by moving to much in too small an area. There would be localized damage and nothing gained structurally. A small piece of metal tossed in there will work fine also.



Like I had mentioned before. Sneak up on it. I tried a couple light strikes to see if anything moved. Nope.



A couple pretty firm strikes and I saw no movement. I am not able to put this back. Given mine is the same, and the 69 on the trailer outside is not. I am deciding to weld it up.
This 70 door shuts better than both the others. I can do any minor adjustments with shimming later when I swap for cleaner doors.

Time to patch the kick panel. It is much thinner than the body metal. I don't have a sheet metal gauge, but a set of calipers will do. I found a piece at the hardware store that was .003 thinner. The thicker repair metal stuff I have been using will burn holes in the parent metal. I do that enough on my own.:o



Then fitting it.



Punch a couple holes for some spot welds and it is ready to weld in. I Will need to clean and paint urethane paint inside the pillar. Then weld it shut. I will cut it open after it is in. The make a cover. Leaving it alone now will help keep it from warping. At least I am hoping for that.:) It is pretty thin stuff.



Hopefully back Wednesday.:drivin:

twisted frame 03-14-2011 09:12 PM

I'm changing subjects here, somewhat, but does that 70 Wag have shoulder seatbelts? Probably not, right? My 73 J truck doesn't have them and I've found a kit online from a hot rod shop for folks who want to install 3-pt. belts in older cars. Just wondering if you plan on doing this in the Wag.

70Wangoneer 03-14-2011 11:05 PM

I want to call dibs on getting my rig to you next...I have had some welding done by some good shops around town, but you by far do the best work I have seen. It is easy to see that you love these Jeeps.

glady8r 03-14-2011 11:53 PM

I used to think that I built my wagoneer untill now but thats ok nice work for sure wish I could do that:thumbsup:

andrew williams 03-15-2011 06:57 AM

i just want to say great job you are a very tallented metal worker. alot of work. i would have given up on that one for sure. my metal skills are mostly pop rivet patches and jb weld. Again great job!!

primal 03-15-2011 07:38 PM

Bravo, encore, bravo, encore. Good show my good man,bloody good show.
And once again you amaze us all.
If I may where did you get that hat channel?

lifted-04-lj 03-16-2011 07:51 AM

I'm still not worthy.. Great work! :thumbsup:

Kaiserjeeps 03-17-2011 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twisted frame
I'm changing subjects here, somewhat, but does that 70 Wag have shoulder seatbelts? Probably not, right? My 73 J truck doesn't have them and I've found a kit online from a hot rod shop for folks who want to install 3-pt. belts in older cars. Just wondering if you plan on doing this in the Wag.


That's a good idea! And now is the time to do it if the owner wants it. I will run that by him and see. I think I will do that to mine. Thank you!

Kaiserjeeps 03-17-2011 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by primal
Bravo, encore, bravo, encore. Good show my good man,bloody good show.
And once again you amaze us all.
If I may where did you get that hat channel?


I was fortunate that the 69 on the trailer outside hat a near perfect section I needed. I cut it out with a sawzall. Just inches past where I cut it was rotted through like the one I replaced. I got lucky that it was there.

I will get some more pictures on photobucket and up here. Thanks guys for the comments. I am tearing into stuff for the first time on a lot of it. Anybody can do this stuff. I am an amateur. I can burn weld holes with the best of em... :D But thank you. I hope to do this for the rest of my days. I like it a lot.

Kaiserjeeps 03-17-2011 12:50 AM

Well where were we? I had a late start due to a house showing. Nothing like a quick panic induced clean up to start your day. :D

I cleaned up the interior of the door pillar. I wiped it down with lacquer thinner and painted urethane inside the cavity. This stuff will mess up a weld, so keep it away till the panels are joined. And don't get it on you.:o



The patch fit well. The better it fits with no clamps, the flatter it will stay. I of course clamped it to weld it up and being thin did warp a little. I stuck a long pry bar with a wide blade in the door hinge pocket after I welded it and sanded it back. I was able to gently pry the warp out and make it look pretty good. Try to avoid pry bars with small points of contact. They will put a stretch in metal that will be very difficult to remove. To much pressure in to small an area. You can cut a small 1/4 inch plate to put in first. Pry against that instead. Then you can move more metal the direction you want.

I left little ears in the access hole where I was going to weld it. That way it did not melt back and I could trim it to shape with a carbide and a chain saw file.



Here is the final patch. I have a small thick finger plate that I was sort of able to plannish the weld flat by poking a finger inside the cavity and a few taps with a body hammer. I did have to chase 2 holes from thin spots. Notice I don't post those. Ha ha.:D
The rusty flange is sandwiched and hidden after the floor pan is installed. I am glad as it would have been very hard to replace it. There was enough material to get a good weld on. Sealing the seams will be very important when all this is done.



Now it's time to fit the front toe piece using the donor part from the 69 outside. I am considering a couple small patches on this part. It looks good but has two thin spots. Maybe I can copper back it and weld them back up with out patching.





I thought I took a picture of the BJ's Offroad floor pan laying in. A couple quick bends and it fits pretty well for a rough fitting. I guess I did not get the picture taken. I will have to tackle it and post up.

Cheers! And stay tuned.

Kaiserjeeps 03-22-2011 12:04 AM

Longer days and warmer weather. :)

The little front piece in the last picture had some bad rust pitting. I was going to weld them up, but there was to much of it. I elected to make a patch instead.



Another pattern. When ever your paper pattern crumples or bunches together when pushed on it's part, the metal will need to be shrunk there.







Then making the patch fit the panel as best as possible.
This is where a shot bag comes in handy. And a couple different plastic hammers. Remember to leave those edges long. Easier to weld that way.



That upper corner is not in the right spot. Weld all the way over too it only where it is flat, then drive it with a corking tool (dressed chisel) into place using your last weld to hold it.




After getting it all welded and plannished this is the end result. Better than a lot of spot repairs, and more likely to not have the rust come back.



Before I weld this one in I want to see how it mates with the aftermarket panel. The overlapping edge was way off. Touching on one edge and a 1/2 inch gap on the other in just a little over one inch of overlap. The floor pan needed to come way down where the gas pedal mounts. Both the front edge and side edge needed the be shrunk considerably. I am pretty much putting a bowl shape in the corner metal. I am trying not to move the original sheet metal to far from it's original position. I will probably clamp it with little nuts and bolts when I weld it.



After a couple more hours pushing and pulling I had to call it a day. It's close. Gotta love those scissors jacks.


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